TheBetterMethod
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Posts posted by TheBetterMethod
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K24 from a newer accord would not be expensive. You should look into that if you want the K.
There should be a shit-ton of info on the web that will help you out.
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Saw this a few months back. It's in Moscow Russia and I'm pretty sure the cops in Moscow
would not think it's cool at all. Russia has very harsh penalties for traffic violations. Of course they would have to catch him first.
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Tell them BOTH to have a Merry Christmas, maybe even a happy new year TOGETHER. Just my input.
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I've been playing over a decade and own about half a dozen different guitars.
Remember two things, it doesn't have to be expensive to sound great, and
Get a guitar that feels comfortable in your hands! <<< Very important!
It's tough for a beginner to find the right guitar because you won't notice the
differences that a seasoned player will. You should avoid Chinese and Mexican
made guitars, however There are some really nice Korean guitars. I own a Korean made
Fender, and love it to death. My first guitar (I still love it) is a Korean Epiphone, it's a FANTASTIC
BEGINNER GUITAR! Also the Epi has dual humbuckers, and a solid tailpiece, so it's GREAT
FOR METAL. The solid tailpiece stays in tune better than the vibrato that your Fender will have
which is also great for a beginner, since you won't have to tune so often.
I would recommend a nice inexpensive Epiphone, SG or Les Paul style. You really can't go wrong.
And don't forget to get a nice SMALL practice amp and BE PATIENT with yourself.
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If you have 15 ft. of the stuff, you might have enough to double up.
Run twice the wire, and get twice the amp handling. That is if you have enough.
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Thanks for the input guys.
Anyone want to add?
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Yeah, that's the thing. The manufacturers give us the numbers based on basically fresh woofers.
So if anybody has the answers, I'm sure there are more than just a couple of us that want to know.
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Hey guys,
I'm wondering, how does the Fs of a sub change after break-in? I've deduced that the break in process which results in lower, louder playing is due to a lowering of the Fs of the woofer. Can someone confirm this (or correct me if I'm wrong)? It makes sense to me because the suspension will have less tension/stiffness after break in and this would cause the cone to return to rest more slowly, at a lower Hz than it did before break-in (which is what the Fs is all about right).
My subsequent question is, If the above thought is true, how much can I expect the Fs to change after break-in? Would it be 1-2Hz, or more/less?
Please someone with knowledge help me out with this, I want to learn.
Thanks,
-TheBetterMethod
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Sorry, don't think I can what?
The Car is a 99 Toyota Solara. The box needs to be 25.5x25.5x15.5x14 (the front baffle will be sloped to give more air space in front of the woofer cone).
I've figured out that I can get 13sq.in. of port per cube if the box is 3.7 after displacement of port and sub.
If the port's any bigger the box is too small to fit the length of the port. Anyway it looks like it will work with 3.7cu.ft. and 48sq.in. of port. Do you think 13sq.in. of port is enough.
I'm thinking of throwing together a dowel frame model of the box to see how it fits and if a bigger one would work. If I can go wider I can fit a bigger box and more port.
Thanks for the input OldsBoomer, and how do you like your FI Qs?
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Ok, there's a problem now. I've been using the port calculator on carstereo.com for my port measurements.
If I enter the port width 13, height 3.7 it says I need a port 19.95" long. Which would work beautifully.
If I enter the port width 3.7, height 13 it says I need a port 24.6" long, that would not work beautifully.
So I guess I need to use a different calculator, and I can't use the Torres cause I'm a Mac user. Drat!
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That is a sexy car. I'm not sure I'd be feelin' the all matte black on your car though.
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Two 6" ports would require 33+ inches each for a 3.7cu.ft. box @33hz. That's a lot of port.
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Yeah, I know, but with 3.2cu.ft. and two 6" ports it would be over 16...56.52 total area which would be 17.7 per cube.
51.2sqin. is the max recommended for 3.2cu.ft. If I can fit a 3.6-7 cube box after displacement, the two 6s would be within spec...
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Thanks for the replies,
I'll be giving it 1200W.
I'll remeasure and crunch numbers to see if a slightly larger box will fit.
That will let me use shorter 6 inch ports, and get the port area within recommended specs.
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Alright guys, here it is.
I'm planning on getting a Fi Q 15 for my car. I'll be making a box for it and it's gonna be a simple trunk build, no wall or trunk wall, just a nice box in the trunk.
So the idea for the box (since it has to fit through my small trunk opening and shallow trunk) is to make it sub up ports forward.
The trunk only allows for a smallish box, if I want to be able to take it out or fit stuff in there on grocery day.
Total box volume before displacement will be 3.7, -.19 for the sub and -.3 for aero ports and that leaves me with 3.2 after displacement.
To tuned for 33hz I'll need 26.75" of port length if I use two 5" aero ports. Two 5" ports gives me about 12sqin per cubic foot, so that's within Fi spec.
So I've got some questions now. For starters, does anyone make a 5 inch aero port? If not, then I could do either 3, 4" ports, or 2, 6".
But two 6s would be slightly more than recommended port area. And three 4s would mean sticking a port right in the middle of the front of the box, where
the sub will probably get in the way. So if I can get 5" aero ports, then I'm good to go, if not then I have more thinking to do.
If you guys have any input, especially on where I can get 5" aero ports, please speak up. I need all the help I can get.
-TheBetterMethod
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Well, the damage won't be covered by the warranty. So, I'm open to suggestions on what to do now.
What's the going rate on a DC Level 4?
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Haha, it sounded good.
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Well...
That was fun while it lasted. I blew the sub today. 35 days after getting it in, it gave up today only 7 minutes into a spirited run through my BASSIX playlist.
I can't say I'm all that surprised. I had it at full tilt for about an hour a day six days a week since the day i got it...plus demos. So about 50 hours of play is my guess.
Anyway, now I've got to get something louder. Cheers!
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If I had a car that was just sitting around and not my daily...there would be a wall in that thing.
Wall it!
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Cool,
Thanks for all the responses guys. You pretty much confirmed what I figured, that the box could be improved.
If I can in fact hit 130dB with this sub and amp, I'll be ecstatic! That would be real nice.
bassl0va, I'm not sure what you meant when you quoted bobmcbob. My amp is running 1200w rms. Just to clarify.
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Yeah it is a start. I just wish it was louder.
So do you guys think it is reasonably loud for what it is?
Does it have hidden potential, maybe it needs a better box?
I wish I had a Term Lab, or knew someone near me with one.
I figure the mic meter I'm using is a little hit or miss.
Seats fold down, but it's a smallish opening. And it's only one 12.
If it's actually capable of 130s, I'd definitely rebuild a new box for it.
Thanks guys!
How big should my nuts be?
in Fi Car Audio Subwoofers
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Hey guys,
I'm getting my Fi Q 15 soon and I'm getting stuff together to build the box for it.
My question is can the sub fit 1/4 inch hardware or will I have to use 10-32 hardware?
I'm gonna be using T-Nuts and I want the biggest stuff the sub will fit without modification.
Thanks,
TheBetterMethod