manofthehour
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Posts posted by manofthehour
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how dangerous do you think it is if I used 4 gauge on a 0 gauge fuse ?
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no its not random what hes tryin to say is if u use the computer power thing i dont know what its called its converts to 12 volts and u can use ur house power instead of a car battery u should look into its confusing though
I have and that's what I thought he was referring to lol, but I'm running 2000 watts and my Power Unit only puts out 1600 watts and I don't wanna fuck up my computer so the battery is fine for now...
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Do you have any spare computers or computer parts layin around?
random...? LOL and no... LOL
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the battery is not its own ground
ground is introduced for ease and safety
It just happens in car set ups, the negative is grounded. In old cars, positive used to be ground.
To answer your question though, yes you are hooked up right. You should put a switch inline with your REM wire. I am using an old light switch that we took out of my kitchen when we remodeled.
If not, you can make your own switch by bridging the 12V to the REM
this is not recommended tho, youll drain your battery the first time you forget to take it off.
Also, please do not use a lead acid battery indoors. If it has hella warning labels all over it, leave it in the engine bay.
Hey ur the guy with his system in his room
LOL yea my battery is a yellowtop and say NONSPILLABLE so IM GOOOOOD lol (ps my system is louder lol 1000RMS ) JK Thanks bro! -
Just like you said, run the + to + and - to -. The battery is it's own ground.
Ok I just wanted to make sure.
Thanks man! -
I'm putting my system in my room til I get another car. I've got my battery here and want to wire it to my amp so what do I do? + of battery to + on amp then - on battery to - on amp? Do I need to ground the battery and amp? If so, how? Thanks guys.
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What size are the subs? because I can't fit anything more than 12's in my hole behind the seats... And another thing: making the port inside the box would save some space no? of course u'd have to router the edges and glass it to make it the smoothest but that was my plan because my back deck is right under the rear seats so the only way to get the subs forward would be to port the box inside...
Anyway another thought is making a t-line and having it end up popping out the rear deck, that would be interesting...
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I'll just post it here for you man.I can do a better job but this is a rough sketch to give you an idea.
[media]
I was thinking more subs forward, seal trunk, port coming thru back deck... I think that would sound better since he's sealing the trunk THAT IS if he wanted to seal his trunk up... otherwise thats a nice drawing...
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H/U: Pioneer DEH-1300MP $70
Sub: RE Audio REX10D4 $50(per sub)
Amp(sub): MTX Audio Terminator TN250/1 $85
spkr: Rockford Fosgate R1653 $50(per pair)
$255 for that
now u can buy wood, power wire thats not scraps, some dynamat if u need it, and other stuff for the other $200 or better speakers/subs/head unit
no amp needed for the 6.5s cuz they r low enough wattage for the H/U to handle
I got that amp and would give it to him, but I'd rather up his highs and mids cuz the subs wouldn't fit without sum mods to the car which he doesn't want to do...
edit: I know I could get everything 'cheap' for under $600 but I'd rather get him nice speakers and stuff for $600 cuz he's not into the whole shake my car and I could get those alpines to hit the mids prettty well...
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cut the back deck and have it fire at the back glass.
x3 I was thinking bout doing that, it would sound and look sick. Then seal of the trunk so the subs show when you take the seats down...
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Yea I was thinking 6.5" and the 1" tweet in the front door but I didn't get a good look at the back door... I'll text him real quick and see what it is...
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No sub?
Trucks too small and subs would cost $600 by themselves and his sound now BLOWS lol so $600 bucks for a complete overhaul of highs and mids sounds good then $600 for some 8" subs and amp for it next year...
Pretty sure he has 6x8s unless ford started using 6.5s.
Really? I guess I'll have to take the doors off to be sure....
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bump for other suggestions...
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So my friend has asked me to up his system for him... He's got an F-150 (idk what year but not the newest one) I looked around in it and I believe it has 4 6.5" speakers and the front door has tweeters also. Everything he's got is stock. He's looking to spend around $600 on the whole thing so I looked around and found this type of setup and was looking for some feedback...
HU:
http://www.audiosavi...-TS1223+RB.aspx
Speakers (x2):
http://www.audiosavi...ERS/SPR17S.aspx
Amp:
http://www.audiosavi...P/HFI100.4.aspx
edit: and as for wiring I'll replace everything with some scraps of wire I have and buy some cheap stuff if I need more...
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not to bust you out op... but seriously... flea market subs in a flea market prefab box.... and your asking why it wont hit lows? orly? get some decent woofers and a box tuned between 30-35hz... and IF it doesnt hit lows... then you can ask questions... a box will only do what it is designed to do...
All subs can hit the lows. It's just how his box is made... Don't bust him on the sub just tell him to make a new box...
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Thanks ahead of time. If I were to get a flat, I PROBABLY could push the box in my car some. If a large ported box is that much worth it, I think I'll just go big or go home anyways. My seats are slanted, so I have about 30in of depth I can use.
yeah idk if you can see in the video but my trunk gets really skinny as it goes into the cabin, the opening is probably 38" wide and 13" tall with rounded edges so pushing forward doesn't work lol but I mayyyy seal off the trunk from the cabin cuz it's a pretty easy job since the box takes up 99% of the opening anyway...
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I'll get the "max" depth I want (I don't want it to be the whole trunk in case I get a flat
), Width I can't go over 35in in a certain spot due to the wheels being in the way, and height is about 14in.Oh and btw, that box looks GREAT, I don't necessarily need form fitting, but it's a plus (which is how it is now).
Yea u GOTTA get that paint I used it's amazing LOL, unfortunately I can't remember anything so I'll get back to you on what I used... lol but anyways if I get a flat I'm screwed my box weighs a TON lol but yea I'll get you the specs tomorrow when I measure it and everything and I'll try to come up with some design on a computer if I have time
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yea if someone doesn't think of one for you tonight ill give you the specs on my box... its not form fitting but it hits 32Hz hard (go to my build and look at the super flex vid LOL)
How wide is your trunk tho? I'm not worried about height cuz the box is like 13.5"-14" high lol and I wanna say 28" deep (but I'd make it 30") and 36" wide I believe... with a 4 " port and about 3.5-4.0 cF I think and tuned to 32Hz (obviously)
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box on radio said 50x4 thats prolly max power tho
Yea that's max (mines got 45x4 RMS
) LOL but I do have the KTP power pack lol There's this wire that loops and takes the bass out of the current or whatever my friend showed it to me like a year ago that should rid the small speaker of bass
Or if you plug it into the existing wires it shouldn't play low freq right? mine don't and they are stock... (but i do have a high pass set to 80hz on the HU)
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NICE! you should throw up some stats... or I can look on the website lol
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15"s have more cone area and thus move more air... I want 15"s lol
sorry lol anyway what do you want the cF to be and what do you want it to be tuned to?
edit: and some specs of the trunk would be nice...
I actually have a box for 2 12s that sits real low but is wide and some what deep if your interested... got some vids of it in my build but dont kno the dimensions off the top of my head.
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ok so right now i have 2 10" P1s in a sealed box and i want to add a single 12" ported P1 to get a little bit lower because the sealed 10s hit REALLY good but not the real lows ... what would be a good amp to run them and would a ported 12 hit good lows ??
Just throwing an option out there... You should not get that 12" sub and use it toward a better amp for the 10"s and buy some wood and make a good ported box for the 10"s. No reason to go get another sub really...
And if you like to have SQL and are afraid the ported box will mess it up, my friend built a sick looking box for his truck the has one sub sealed and the other is ported to like 25hz? i think... lol but anyway just a thought... gL
edit: his sounded really good but then again he has cadence wildbeasts which are huge 12"s lol idk too much about your subs
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Ok so here's the low down...
After about a week of testing the the subs max and amp max I've decided to actually tune it to the right amount... After tuning it I realized it's actually not any quieter than before... I don't know what happened but I tuned mine at about 60-70% of the max volume on the HU since that's what I usually listen to it at (loudness was also on which really is so the highs can keep up with the bass) tuned it and the gain was actually 5/7 of the way to the max (35V on the dmm)... Then I tested what it would be at 75-85% HU volume and loudness off it hit around 101V on the dmm which is good considering it used to be so high the dmm didn't read it... So that's my story... LOL in the end tuning it isn't so bad and makes me really want a bigger amp cuz these subs still got a lot to give... and my resting voltage of the battery is 14.89V which surprised me for a little yellow top optima... I'll be testing the V drop tomorrow to see how low it gets lol. Thanks for all the advice though from whoever gave it lol
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Ok just gonna put this out there, since nobody else seems to have noticed... on 99% of amps a setting like 170mV on the gain is MAXIMUM gain. As in, it's expecting to never see more than 170mV at the input so 170mV will drive it to the brink of clipping.
That's why your amp gets hot. And probably why it sounds like shit on higher notes.
Very true. I realized that it was never originally that high (170mV) in the first place more like around 1V (maybe a little less) because I played a song that had some low tunes (like 32-35Hz) and my subs would go crazy and (im gonna guess) they were clipping like hell. So I pulled over and kept it playing while I turned the gain knob down to where it didn't sound like they were clipping which is at about 8o% which looks like 1V or a little less... but still failed the tuning test... but I'm really thinking it's because the amp doesn't get enough power from the front battery and has to work a lot harder... but o well I'll be thinking more about it and can always use some advice...
edit: and I still don't understand why the "safe" gain level (after tuning) is so much quieter when I have been running the current set-up for a couple months (and I always listen to it at the max) and the only problem I see is the amp getting too hot and the subs get hot too but I never found any problems with that (meaning they never smell or bottom out and to my ear they don't clip)
plus the amp (rated at 1000RMS is under powering the subs rated at 1200RMS for both)
) JK Thanks bro!
), Width I can't go over 35in in a certain spot due to the wheels being in the way, and height is about 14in.
Battery set-up
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
like a fuse holder with a big ass hole for 0 gauge and putting the smaller 4 gauge into it... the fuse is 250 amp tho... i cant do anything about that... I'm not drawing from an alt just a normal battery nothing else and I'm never gonna max it out longer than a song or two (and that's a MAYBE) still haven't gotten it to work yet...