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manofthehour

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Everything posted by manofthehour

  1. Need to find someone local with a meter...

  2. Need to find someone local with a meter...

  3. Haven't been on here in a while, so here's an update to what I'm driving and bumping with: And here's what I'm rolling in: I do photography on the side so check out my page in the sig! If you live in the Midlands in SC, hmu fi you want some photos taken!
  4. Back to getting some BASS.

  5. So I'm ready to get back into some good car audio again. This time around I have a little Scion xA Hatchback. I decided to start slow to see what will sound good in a hatch. I got one 12" RE Audio SEX12D4 and a Cadence F1200-1D so I have power to get two subwoofers if I want. Unfortunately the amp came DOA so I have a friends old Kenwood amp right now, but it's still up and beating! Picture time. I decided just to use some scraps of 3/4" MDF I had laying around to make the first box since I will be getting another subwoofer soon. The box is only about .6 ft^3 max... Phone pics are the worst, but it's a nice start... sounds great in the hatch! More to come once I get MY amp...
  6. I had the Cadence txa-1000d and it put out at least 1200 rms. It was super loud... I just bought the f1200-1d, hopefully it's as good as the previous amp I had. Hopefully Cadence's quality is seen in ALL there products...
  7. Should I still get the Cadence F100-5 as the highs/mids amp? Or does anyone have a better suggestion (no more than $150)
  8. All what money? lol I only gots $150... I was gonna use that for the amp then get the wiring then the speakers... Eh... sounds good lol, everyone's been saying that so I guess I'll make that my plan. Guess I'll be getting the Cadence amp since no ones saying anything about it. I'll decide on the speakers once I get some more $$. I'll probably get some decent coaxials for the rear door since they really are hidden and can't be heard... and I was thinking 2 RFs would be better than one dd... but i dont know much about dd... I was considering one 12" warden way down the road for some serious bass since I can only fit one 12" (trying to watch the weight I put in this car since its only got 100hp lol)
  9. Sound deadner is unfortunately last... I wanted to get the SQ in first then I wrap the whole car in that and get some thermal for the roof cause it gets blistering hot (even with 35% tint... which i'll be upping to 5% later...) Money's tight, I'm loaded with school right now and only work on fridays and saturdays for some cash on the side... Just trying to get a small SQ (nothing blow your mind, but better than what I have now...)
  10. Ah, I guess what I forgot to say is I'm not in it for the competition... I just want some good speakers that go loud and don't distort... I looked into some RF power series speakers for $170 and might do as someone mentioned and skip the back speakers for now... My current setup is: Headunit - Alpine iDa-X100 w/ my lovely iPod for pristine output - I have the KTP power pack that puts out 45x4 RMS so It gets decently loud now... (not a whole lot of SQ at high volumes) Front speakers are stock components, but pioneer stock... better than paper i guess (taking the 45RMS like a champ) Rear speakers were some 5.25" pioneer stock speakers that I traded out for some polk db 6.5 coaxials that I had... That setup just isn't cutting it. I want to get loud, but I don't want to get ear blistering loud... Just high quality at high volumes... So that Cadence amp is okay? I have about $150 now and was looking to buy the amp this weekend to test before deciding on what speakers...
  11. Which ones? the ZRS or CWM series? or both? lol the zrs damn... any other recommendations then? my budget is only $60-$8O a pair... I wanted to run a heavier speaker in the back doors for more mid-high bass/less highs and the front doors more mid-high to highs...
  12. Hey guys! I'm looking into doing a small/not too expensive SQ build for my Scion xA. The setup: 1 - 5 Channel amp 4 gauge amp kit 4 - 6.5" component speakers 2 - 8" subwoofers going into a 0.3 cubic foot box made of 1/4" MDF (already assembled) 1 - Battery (this will be upgrading the one under the hood) 1 - Sound equalizer The products: 5 Channel Amp Cadence F100-5 4 gauge amp kit Rockford Fosgate RFK4X 6.5" speakers for front door Cadence ZRS-65KS http://www.audiosavi...RS-65KS-6.5%E2%80%9D-300w-SLIM-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-PAIR/ZRS-65KS.aspx 6.5" speakers for back door Cadence CWM6KIT http://www.audiosavi...CWM6KIT-6.5%E2%80%9D-200-WATT-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-KIT/CWM6KIT.aspx 8" subwoofers Rockford Fosgate P1S4-8 Battery Kinetik KHC1400 Sound equalizer Cadence CEQ-773 I'm not sure if Kinetik batteries are usable under the hood... If not I'll just stick to a yellow top battery then... Frequencies: front door speakers = 85Hz->22kHz rear door speakers = 65Hz->22kHz subwoofers = 35Hz->65Hz (Not sure for this, I don't know the freq responses for this sub. It'll be in a sealed box so hopefully it can get those frequencies) So how does it look? Any suggestions?
  13. Yea I totally forgot about this post on here LOL. So I got my i3 up to 4.1GHz @ 1.35V Vcore and got my memory timings down to 8-8-8-20. Everythings stable so far running Prime95 for about 7 hours now... Never touches 65C either. Thanks for the help though, I figured I'd do better posting on a overclocking oriented website LOL.
  14. nobody knows computers here? (I KNOW its a car audio site LOL)
  15. psh, just trying to overclock my processor. I bought this big ass cooler for it and a motherboard that can OC... I can get pretty far, but when it comes to getting the right voltage. I cant LOL. But this stock setup does everything GREAT, just wanna make it better. I plan on switching from PS3 to PC games in the very near future.
  16. Yea... Sorry I decided to get something I can't crash... F Left turns... so overrated.
  17. Hey, I'm new to the OC'ing scene. Been playing around with my new board (EVGA P55) and can't seem to get the voltages right. I've tried following a couple of How To Do instructions on some sites, but I can't seem to get everything flowing right and I know its my fault LOL. If anyone can help me that'd be cool. The System: i3 550 Clarksdale (3.2Ghz stock) EVGA P55 (E655) 2GB Kingston HyperX 1600 (x4) 1000watt PSU (so power is NOT a problem) 9800GT EVGA Nvidia Zalman Cooler (so it can handle a 4.0 overclock easy) Antec 900 Case Hard drive and CD/DVD If any other info is needed let me know, I'd like a nice stable overclock since i use my PC 24/7 and I've heard some people getting 4.0GHz and 1600Mhz RAM extremely stable. Like I said, if anyone would like to throw me some tips that'd be great! Thanks!
  18. That doesn't seem to take in account of the resistance (ohms?) Unless that's the maximum output, but in that case I had an amp without an internal fuse, so I can make the output wattage whatever I want? (Obviously not a ridiculous amount, but my example is cadences TXA-1000D didn't have an internal fuse, so I put a 200 amp external fuse on it... so therefore the supposedly 1000 watt amp put out almost 3000 watts?) I'm just trying to understand it, not trying to be a smart ass or anything lol, thanks for that formula method btw, seems handy
  19. Hopefully these clear up my question. I don't really know if I want one or two subs yet, but I want to try to understand how to wire these amps with two terminals... All subs with be Dual 4 ohm so i can wire it down to 2 ohm... ^ Am I getting all 2400 watts RMS on that sub? ^ ^ Am I getting 1200 watts RMS on each sub? ^
  20. I really despise these types of amps because it says MONOblock, but has two terminals... I guess my real question is: How the heck do I wire one subwoofer and have it receive the full 2400 watts RMS? edit: I'll come up with some diagrams to explain how I am thinking later... but any help right now is appreciated
  21. Ah I think I understand what your saying better than the first one... so what you're saying is to get a Dual 4 ohm and wire it down to 2 ohms and put the pos. in one and neg. in the corresponding other one? (Like having only the green wire in the diagram)
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