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Everything posted by manofthehour
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So I'm ready to get back into some good car audio again. This time around I have a little Scion xA Hatchback. I decided to start slow to see what will sound good in a hatch. I got one 12" RE Audio SEX12D4 and a Cadence F1200-1D so I have power to get two subwoofers if I want. Unfortunately the amp came DOA so I have a friends old Kenwood amp right now, but it's still up and beating! Picture time. I decided just to use some scraps of 3/4" MDF I had laying around to make the first box since I will be getting another subwoofer soon. The box is only about .6 ft^3 max... Phone pics are the worst, but it's a nice start... sounds great in the hatch! More to come once I get MY amp...
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I had the Cadence txa-1000d and it put out at least 1200 rms. It was super loud... I just bought the f1200-1d, hopefully it's as good as the previous amp I had. Hopefully Cadence's quality is seen in ALL there products...
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All what money? lol I only gots $150... I was gonna use that for the amp then get the wiring then the speakers... Eh... sounds good lol, everyone's been saying that so I guess I'll make that my plan. Guess I'll be getting the Cadence amp since no ones saying anything about it. I'll decide on the speakers once I get some more $$. I'll probably get some decent coaxials for the rear door since they really are hidden and can't be heard... and I was thinking 2 RFs would be better than one dd... but i dont know much about dd... I was considering one 12" warden way down the road for some serious bass since I can only fit one 12" (trying to watch the weight I put in this car since its only got 100hp lol)
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Sound deadner is unfortunately last... I wanted to get the SQ in first then I wrap the whole car in that and get some thermal for the roof cause it gets blistering hot (even with 35% tint... which i'll be upping to 5% later...) Money's tight, I'm loaded with school right now and only work on fridays and saturdays for some cash on the side... Just trying to get a small SQ (nothing blow your mind, but better than what I have now...)
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Ah, I guess what I forgot to say is I'm not in it for the competition... I just want some good speakers that go loud and don't distort... I looked into some RF power series speakers for $170 and might do as someone mentioned and skip the back speakers for now... My current setup is: Headunit - Alpine iDa-X100 w/ my lovely iPod for pristine output - I have the KTP power pack that puts out 45x4 RMS so It gets decently loud now... (not a whole lot of SQ at high volumes) Front speakers are stock components, but pioneer stock... better than paper i guess (taking the 45RMS like a champ) Rear speakers were some 5.25" pioneer stock speakers that I traded out for some polk db 6.5 coaxials that I had... That setup just isn't cutting it. I want to get loud, but I don't want to get ear blistering loud... Just high quality at high volumes... So that Cadence amp is okay? I have about $150 now and was looking to buy the amp this weekend to test before deciding on what speakers...
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Hey guys! I'm looking into doing a small/not too expensive SQ build for my Scion xA. The setup: 1 - 5 Channel amp 4 gauge amp kit 4 - 6.5" component speakers 2 - 8" subwoofers going into a 0.3 cubic foot box made of 1/4" MDF (already assembled) 1 - Battery (this will be upgrading the one under the hood) 1 - Sound equalizer The products: 5 Channel Amp Cadence F100-5 4 gauge amp kit Rockford Fosgate RFK4X 6.5" speakers for front door Cadence ZRS-65KS http://www.audiosavi...RS-65KS-6.5%E2%80%9D-300w-SLIM-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-PAIR/ZRS-65KS.aspx 6.5" speakers for back door Cadence CWM6KIT http://www.audiosavi...CWM6KIT-6.5%E2%80%9D-200-WATT-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-KIT/CWM6KIT.aspx 8" subwoofers Rockford Fosgate P1S4-8 Battery Kinetik KHC1400 Sound equalizer Cadence CEQ-773 I'm not sure if Kinetik batteries are usable under the hood... If not I'll just stick to a yellow top battery then... Frequencies: front door speakers = 85Hz->22kHz rear door speakers = 65Hz->22kHz subwoofers = 35Hz->65Hz (Not sure for this, I don't know the freq responses for this sub. It'll be in a sealed box so hopefully it can get those frequencies) So how does it look? Any suggestions?
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i3 550 Overclocking assistance
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
Yea I totally forgot about this post on here LOL. So I got my i3 up to 4.1GHz @ 1.35V Vcore and got my memory timings down to 8-8-8-20. Everythings stable so far running Prime95 for about 7 hours now... Never touches 65C either. Thanks for the help though, I figured I'd do better posting on a overclocking oriented website LOL. -
i3 550 Overclocking assistance
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
nobody knows computers here? (I KNOW its a car audio site LOL) -
i3 550 Overclocking assistance
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
psh, just trying to overclock my processor. I bought this big ass cooler for it and a motherboard that can OC... I can get pretty far, but when it comes to getting the right voltage. I cant LOL. But this stock setup does everything GREAT, just wanna make it better. I plan on switching from PS3 to PC games in the very near future. -
i3 550 Overclocking assistance
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
Yea... Sorry I decided to get something I can't crash... F Left turns... so overrated. -
Hey, I'm new to the OC'ing scene. Been playing around with my new board (EVGA P55) and can't seem to get the voltages right. I've tried following a couple of How To Do instructions on some sites, but I can't seem to get everything flowing right and I know its my fault LOL. If anyone can help me that'd be cool. The System: i3 550 Clarksdale (3.2Ghz stock) EVGA P55 (E655) 2GB Kingston HyperX 1600 (x4) 1000watt PSU (so power is NOT a problem) 9800GT EVGA Nvidia Zalman Cooler (so it can handle a 4.0 overclock easy) Antec 900 Case Hard drive and CD/DVD If any other info is needed let me know, I'd like a nice stable overclock since i use my PC 24/7 and I've heard some people getting 4.0GHz and 1600Mhz RAM extremely stable. Like I said, if anyone would like to throw me some tips that'd be great! Thanks!
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Sub to Amp wiring question
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
That doesn't seem to take in account of the resistance (ohms?) Unless that's the maximum output, but in that case I had an amp without an internal fuse, so I can make the output wattage whatever I want? (Obviously not a ridiculous amount, but my example is cadences TXA-1000D didn't have an internal fuse, so I put a 200 amp external fuse on it... so therefore the supposedly 1000 watt amp put out almost 3000 watts?) I'm just trying to understand it, not trying to be a smart ass or anything lol, thanks for that formula method btw, seems handy -
Sub to Amp wiring question
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Hopefully these clear up my question. I don't really know if I want one or two subs yet, but I want to try to understand how to wire these amps with two terminals... All subs with be Dual 4 ohm so i can wire it down to 2 ohm... ^ Am I getting all 2400 watts RMS on that sub? ^ ^ Am I getting 1200 watts RMS on each sub? ^ -
Sub to Amp wiring question
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
I really despise these types of amps because it says MONOblock, but has two terminals... I guess my real question is: How the heck do I wire one subwoofer and have it receive the full 2400 watts RMS? edit: I'll come up with some diagrams to explain how I am thinking later... but any help right now is appreciated -
Sub to Amp wiring question
manofthehour replied to manofthehour's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Ah I think I understand what your saying better than the first one... so what you're saying is to get a Dual 4 ohm and wire it down to 2 ohms and put the pos. in one and neg. in the corresponding other one? (Like having only the green wire in the diagram)