manofthehour
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Posts posted by manofthehour
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Ohhhhhhhh
Sorry =)It's all good lol
edit: I went to a car audio place (local one) and the main guy I talk to said it may be because the amp itself isn't getting the power it needs so it has to work harder (that dealing with the fact that the amp gets hot)
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I dont know if im right ( dont yell at me, im new to car audio to) But you said on your HU its -25DB, turn that to 0.
LOL i won't yell at you since you don't have this HU my HU goes from infinity being 0 (no sound) then it's like -120dBs or something then goes to 0 dB (the max) and at 0 dB the highs are way too distorted and I'm not going to turn my HU to the max since the good listening level is from -30dB to -20dB.
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what did you set the voltage at?
? You mean the gain voltage (170mV now) and tuned it was ~3V? maybe but it sounded quiet...
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how high is your volume? what out of what? and some headunits have a subwoofer level control. if you do (usually goes up to 10 or 15), turn that up all the way (NOT BASSBOOST). retune gains. having to turn the gains up that high tells me that the headunit isnt turned up very much or the subwoofer level isnt up at all.
edit: oh and when you tuned it to the rated power of the amp (with the dmm) and it wasnt "loud", thats probably cause the amp is too small and you are doing a "noob" mistake by turning up the gain more. 2 different things that can be going on, either the 1st part or 2nd part
lol Cadence doesn't play around there is no way that amp is too small lol. And yea my HU has a sub control its at 15 (the max) and the HU volume is at -25dB (75% all the way up). Everything I did was what the instructions told me... I just didn't like the results. its 1000 watts RMS and I've been playing it with no subwoofer problems... So idk
edit: the only thing I could do instead of turning up the gains is turning up the bass EQ on the HU, but I'm gonna guess that's not a good idea lol
I also have a loudness setting...
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Okay so today I hooked up the dmm and followed the instructions... when I plugged the subs back in and play sum music the bass is about 100% quieter. So I check it again... yet again quiet as hell. So I just put it back to what it was and left it like that. I don't understand what's going on but my system sounds fine on 170mV and the amp isn't powerful enough to overpower the subs, but the amp does get hot, but I'm blaming it on the fact it's 100 degrees outside and I ride with the windows down. O well.
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RMS, never use max.
yep got it. Anyone know where to get a 50-60 hz tone unless i can use 45Hz @ -4.6dBs...
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Meant rms max, sorry for the confusion.
nvm it says it on the pic LOL didn't see the words below LOL thanks again!
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Post #2 use the chart, find the ohms at the top and go down to where you amp is putting out max watts and set the AC voltage to that. Just follow the directions at the bottom of the chart.
RMS or max watts? and thanks bro
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you can turn the gain to the 12 o clock position and be safe operating it there for now till you can get a dmm on it or o scoped.
Okay, but why if I can ask? and I'm not going to buy one (right now maybe later), but I can go to a place I know has lots of them and will let me use one real quick... so what do I need to do with it?
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I have mine set around 100hz and I never have a problem with highs hitting in the subs or maybe Im not understanding what your saying, I know most people set it around 75-80, try that and see how you like it.
Oh, I forgot I have a LPF on my headunit set to 80hz so It doesnt matter what my amp is set at so maybe thats why.
Lol yea... but yea i definitely was planning to do that, but what do you think about keepin the gain at 170 mV?
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Your sub is hitting highs?
not more than 100-125Hz, I can't remember which I set it to, but yes highs for a sub (they are RE SEX 12D4s) but I don't like the sound when it plays those highs and then hits the lows...
edit: sorry not the highs speakers play lol
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I have a Cadence TXA1000D that runs about 1000watts RMS wired down to 1 Ohm. I run the input gain at the lowest it can go 170 mV. My HU (Alpine IDA-x100) says it puts out 3V on the RCAs. Subsonic is at 32-35Hz my box is tuned to around that also. Bass boost is at 0dB since everyone says to do that lol. and Low pass is at 100Hz, but I want to turn it down because it hits the highs horribly...
Anyway I've been looking around on forums where people have been tuning their amps. My amp runs a little hot but I'm guessing it's because its 95 degrees outside. I've also seen people using a dmm but haven't really caught on to why and what. Any help would be nice, I'm still kinda learning my way around car audio.
edit: I guess my questions are:
Is my input gain okay at 170 mV?
What exactly is a dmm used for? (in regards to tuning an amp)
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that looks like a 10" lol but i guess its cuz of the huge box lol
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no...you're not listening to me. everything in your car runs off the alternator when the car is running...everything. both our diagrams are the same except you have WAY more wire than you need to have, causing more dimming than you would have if you used my diagram.
well damn if everything runs off the alternator haha then yea im wrong hahaha, I thought everything ran off the battery all the time. Thats all you had to say lol. Thanks man I'll just have to up the alt then.
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both ways will charge both batteries and run all electronics in the car. but my way will be more efficient. as i said before, you cannot get rid of dimming by just adding/removing wire. the ONLY way to get rid of dimming (aka having a higher/more steady voltage) is to get a high output alternator. if you dont have the money for one, then i have to say too bad deal with it.
but doesnt my diagram get rid of the dimming...???? The amp is no longer drawing power from the front battery... So there should be no reason the lights would dim... am i wrong?
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dont get me wrong it WILL work, it just wont work as efficiently (voltage drop across the long length of wire) as the "correct" way.
but won't that do the following?:
1. get rid of the dimming.
2. charge the front battery.
3. charge the back battery.
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they output electricity, which is composed of voltage (they create AC but is transformed into DC but thats not important), amperage (amps), and resistance (ohms).
edit: no that is not the correct way to wire 2 batteries. the diagram i "drew" is the correct way.
ok man I just dont understand why not. There doesn't seem to be a reason why it wouldn't work...
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then you're fine. the ONLY WAY to stop dimming is to start at the power source, aka the alternator. a bigger alternator outputs more power = not having to strain as much = more voltage = less dimming
uhhh i thought alternators put out amperage?
edit: and here's what im talking about... the amp is fused too
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so you bought a new battery and only hooked it up to the amp and not the front battery...why didnt you connect the 2 batteries together using 0 gauge in the first place. you lose so much current and voltage running that long of a piece of wire. who told you to do it this way in the first place? and no this situation doesnt work. not well at least.
edit: heres how your car should be wired up, at least the positive side. blue = fuse blocks, red = 0 gauge (if amp doesnt accept 0 gauge, then its 4 gauge)
thats how its wired up now
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so you bought a new battery and only hooked it up to the amp and not the front battery...why didnt you connect the 2 batteries together using 0 gauge in the first place. you lose so much current and voltage running that long of a piece of wire. who told you to do it this way in the first place? and no this situation doesnt work. not well at least.
That was a hypothetical situation used so you could understand what I was asking. Im no electrical engineer but where does the current and voltage go? it just disappears?
edit: and does this mean everyone who connects their amp to the front battery is also losing voltage and amperage on the long trip to the amp in the trunk?
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if you wire your two batteries together then everything in the car is running off the 2 batteries + the alternator. starting your car uses both batteries. running the alternator all the way to the back battery is absolutely pointless and a waste of time and energy.
wtf? LOL. Lemme try this again. In the beginning my car ran off of one battery. This battery powered everything in my car fine. I put in subs. All lights dim. I bought a new battery for the amp. The new battery isn't connected to the front battery. A 0 gauge wire runs from the alt to the back battery to keep it charged. The stock wiring goes to the front battery to keep it charged. TA-DA! DOES THIS SITUATION WORK?
edit: and btw "I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries" this means that the batteries aren't connected
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yes no shit. like i said, 99% of lights will dim when the voltage drops. get a high output alternator if its that big of a problem for you
OK smart ass I DONT HAVE THE MONEY! jeez. I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries and just run the alt to the back with 0 gauge and keep the stock wiring wouldn't that eliminate the dimming because ALL LIGHTS are wired to the front battery and the amp is wired to the back one...
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Youll never get rid of it unless you have a pretty decent battery bank and if needed a high output alternator. Big three helps a little but isnt too effective. what amps are you running?
ONE AMP CADENCE TXA-1000D its in my sig.
one on left goes to amp (4 gauge) right one goes to battery (0 gauge)
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what kinda amps are you running? i would do the big 3 in all 0 and run 0 from the front bat to the back, keep both batteries. may i ask why you went with optima? its a little late now but i woulda gone with xs power. alittle more pricey but totaly worth it
Cadence TXA-1000D and moneys tight got a good deal on the yellow top so i bought it... idk if i could fit 2 ring terminals on my alternator... but the stock wiring (8-10 gauge) is still attached so if I plugged up the 0 gauge to the battery in the back wouldn't both be fine... I just think my amp is still drawing power from the front battery because they are connected...
Sorry =)
A Little help tuning my amp...
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