manofthehour
-
Posts
494 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by manofthehour
-
-
So I'm ready to get back into some good car audio again. This time around I have a little Scion xA Hatchback. I decided to start slow to see what will sound good in a hatch. I got one 12" RE Audio SEX12D4 and a Cadence F1200-1D so I have power to get two subwoofers if I want. Unfortunately the amp came DOA so I have a friends old Kenwood amp right now, but it's still up and beating! Picture time.
I decided just to use some scraps of 3/4" MDF I had laying around to make the first box since I will be getting another subwoofer soon. The box is only about .6 ft^3 max...
Phone pics are the worst, but it's a nice start... sounds great in the hatch! More to come once I get MY amp...
-
I had the Cadence txa-1000d and it put out at least 1200 rms. It was super loud... I just bought the f1200-1d, hopefully it's as good as the previous amp I had. Hopefully Cadence's quality is seen in ALL there products...
-
Should I still get the Cadence F100-5 as the highs/mids amp? Or does anyone have a better suggestion (no more than $150)
-
I would take all of that money and just buy a decent comp set for the front and maybe a dd 8" 500 for about 100 down the road. Just my .02
All what money? lol I only gots $150... I was gonna use that for the amp then get the wiring then the speakers...
Eh... sounds good lol, everyone's been saying that so I guess I'll make that my plan. Guess I'll be getting the Cadence amp since no ones saying anything about it. I'll decide on the speakers once I get some more $$. I'll probably get some decent coaxials for the rear door since they really are hidden and can't be heard... and I was thinking 2 RFs would be better than one dd... but i dont know much about dd... I was considering one 12" warden way down the road for some serious bass since I can only fit one 12" (trying to watch the weight I put in this car since its only got 100hp lol)
-
Great comps for the price range and as was said just do the front doors, make sure you deaden them well so you can get as much midbass out of them as you can.
Sound deadner is unfortunately last... I wanted to get the SQ in first then I wrap the whole car in that and get some thermal for the roof cause it gets blistering hot (even with 35% tint... which i'll be upping to 5% later...)
Money's tight, I'm loaded with school right now and only work on fridays and saturdays for some cash on the side...
Just trying to get a small SQ (nothing blow your mind, but better than what I have now...)
-
Ah, I guess what I forgot to say is I'm not in it for the competition... I just want some good speakers that go loud and don't distort... I looked into some RF power series speakers for $170 and might do as someone mentioned and skip the back speakers for now...
My current setup is:
Headunit - Alpine iDa-X100 w/ my lovely iPod for pristine output
- I have the KTP power pack that puts out 45x4 RMS so It gets decently loud now... (not a whole lot of SQ at high volumes)
Front speakers are stock components, but pioneer stock... better than paper i guess (taking the 45RMS like a champ)
Rear speakers were some 5.25" pioneer stock speakers that I traded out for some polk db 6.5 coaxials that I had...
That setup just isn't cutting it. I want to get loud, but I don't want to get ear blistering loud... Just high quality at high volumes...
So that Cadence amp is okay? I have about $150 now and was looking to buy the amp this weekend to test before deciding on what speakers...
-
my only think to add is i am currently running cadence door speakers, and for the money theyre not bad but i wouldnt run them again, and theyre definately not an sq comp set. they sound alright but they get a bit muddy up high and the mid bass is severely lacking
Which ones? the ZRS or CWM series? or both? lol
the zrs
damn... any other recommendations then? my budget is only $60-$8O a pair... I wanted to run a heavier speaker in the back doors for more mid-high bass/less highs and the front doors more mid-high to highs...
-
my only think to add is i am currently running cadence door speakers, and for the money theyre not bad but i wouldnt run them again, and theyre definately not an sq comp set. they sound alright but they get a bit muddy up high and the mid bass is severely lacking
Which ones? the ZRS or CWM series? or both? lol
-
no other suggestions?
-
Hey guys! I'm looking into doing a small/not too expensive SQ build for my Scion xA.
The setup:
1 - 5 Channel amp
4 gauge amp kit
4 - 6.5" component speakers
2 - 8" subwoofers
going into a 0.3 cubic foot box made of 1/4" MDF (already assembled)
1 - Battery (this will be upgrading the one under the hood)
1 - Sound equalizer
The products:
5 Channel Amp
4 gauge amp kit
6.5" speakers for front door
Cadence ZRS-65KS
http://www.audiosavi...RS-65KS-6.5%E2%80%9D-300w-SLIM-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-PAIR/ZRS-65KS.aspx
6.5" speakers for back door
Cadence CWM6KIT
http://www.audiosavi...CWM6KIT-6.5%E2%80%9D-200-WATT-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-KIT/CWM6KIT.aspx
8" subwoofers
Battery
Sound equalizer
I'm not sure if Kinetik batteries are usable under the hood... If not I'll just stick to a yellow top battery then...
Frequencies:
front door speakers = 85Hz->22kHz
rear door speakers = 65Hz->22kHz
subwoofers = 35Hz->65Hz (Not sure for this, I don't know the freq responses for this sub. It'll be in a sealed box so hopefully it can get those frequencies)
So how does it look? Any suggestions?
-
I have an Intel E8500 running with about a 1GHz overclock, but that's on a P45 board. Everything changed with the switch to the iX series...I'll look into it and get back on here.
just because someone else has got up to 4ghz does not in any way mean that you can. you kinda going about the whole process wrong.
to find ur max oc ur suppossed to go up in smal steps, given that there are many variables that can effect the stabilty of the platform, test harshly and if it passes, go back and bump up again.
it takes hours not just ohh turn the multiplier here fsb here and poof 4ghz.
on your specific question, id first check to see what ur temps are at full load oon stock settings to see if you really have headroom thermally.
if so, and you likely do have decent temps you have to take the mobo into account almost more so than the cpu. i mean the cpu basically is voltage, heat and clock
the mobo is voltages, transfer rates, well to keep it short just everything
idk about ur specific hard as im not an intel person myself, but double check ur hyper threading clocks, on the mobo, the nb and sb links etc
check your memory voltages and especially the timings...
if ur really new to oc'in either learn up first or just leave ur timings alone.
but again, oc'ing is about steps.
first leave everything stock. start with the cpu bump up ur clock step by step untill u reach unstabilty. try to adjust the dividers to keep the memory and mobo cose to stock speeds.
then try a but more voltage and see if u get ur cpu a lil but higher.. since ur on air i wouldnt reccomend too much more than a lil voltage increase.. just google ur cpus voltage ie:. core i3 550 max voltage, you should easily find the range to play with
then once uve gotten ur cpu max, move onto memory bumping up 100mhz or so every step depending on your cooling MAYBE a lil more voltage but if any component is easily broken by improper voltage its mem. heck sometimes decreasing voltage gets ur higher. i usually liked using prime 95 and memtest for stability test. mobo testing usually falls in line with mem testing as the link speeds etc are interrelated.
also idk if your populating all the mobo mem slots? some mobos "like" to have certain slots used when oc'ing
also, possibly look into a mobo firmware update. many times older firmware dont oc well or dont even auto detect memory speeds so that might help.
also, many of the new chipsets have "turbo" mode that auto oc for you... if your lazy
anyway im tired, and not up on computers like i used to be, but if you take anything away from this its that just because john down the street got 4ghz even with mathcing hardware does not at all mean that you will, and that its very much a slow ass step by step process especially if you want rock solid stable. oh and intel < Amd and really oc'ers run liquid haha
good luck
and go do some research
edit - omg my spelling is terible when its dark and im tired lol oops
Yea I totally forgot about this post on here LOL. So I got my i3 up to 4.1GHz @ 1.35V Vcore and got my memory timings down to 8-8-8-20. Everythings stable so far running Prime95 for about 7 hours now... Never touches 65C either. Thanks for the help though, I figured I'd do better posting on a overclocking oriented website LOL.
-
nobody knows computers here? (I KNOW its a car audio site LOL)
-
what on earth are you trying to run that you can't run with that processor and 8gig of ram
psh, just trying to overclock my processor. I bought this big ass cooler for it and a motherboard that can OC... I can get pretty far, but when it comes to getting the right voltage. I cant LOL. But this stock setup does everything GREAT, just wanna make it better. I plan on switching from PS3 to PC games in the very near future.
-
overclocking. the pc geeks .5 ohm.
Yea... Sorry I decided to get something I can't crash... F Left turns... so overrated.
-
Hey, I'm new to the OC'ing scene. Been playing around with my new board (EVGA P55) and can't seem to get the voltages right. I've tried following a couple of How To Do instructions on some sites, but I can't seem to get everything flowing right and I know its my fault LOL. If anyone can help me that'd be cool.
The System:
i3 550 Clarksdale (3.2Ghz stock)
EVGA P55 (E655)
2GB Kingston HyperX 1600 (x4)
1000watt PSU (so power is NOT a problem)
9800GT EVGA Nvidia
Zalman Cooler (so it can handle a 4.0 overclock easy)
Antec 900 Case
Hard drive and CD/DVD
If any other info is needed let me know, I'd like a nice stable overclock since i use my PC 24/7 and I've heard some people getting 4.0GHz and 1600Mhz RAM extremely stable. Like I said, if anyone would like to throw me some tips that'd be great! Thanks!
-
im sorry man, but you are not going to see anywhere near 2400 watts RMS from that amplifier.
a simple way to determine output of an amplifier (most of the time) is to calculate the fusing provided on the amp itself
14.4 (volts) * 120 (amps of fusing) = 1728 watts
now lets add in the efficiency (because no electrical component is 100%)
1728 * .8 (typical efficiency) = 1382 watts RMS
this isnt a set-in-stone method to determine, but it can give you a good idea of what your amplifier will feed your woofers.
That doesn't seem to take in account of the resistance (ohms?) Unless that's the maximum output, but in that case I had an amp without an internal fuse, so I can make the output wattage whatever I want? (Obviously not a ridiculous amount, but my example is cadences TXA-1000D didn't have an internal fuse, so I put a 200 amp external fuse on it... so therefore the supposedly 1000 watt amp put out almost 3000 watts?) I'm just trying to understand it, not trying to be a smart ass or anything lol, thanks for that formula method btw, seems handy
-
Hopefully these clear up my question. I don't really know if I want one or two subs yet, but I want to try to understand how to wire these amps with two terminals...
All subs with be Dual 4 ohm so i can wire it down to 2 ohm...
^ Am I getting all 2400 watts RMS on that sub? ^
^ Am I getting 1200 watts RMS on each sub? ^
-
I really despise these types of amps because it says MONOblock, but has two terminals... I guess my real question is: How the heck do I wire one subwoofer and have it receive the full 2400 watts RMS?
edit: I'll come up with some diagrams to explain how I am thinking later... but any help right now is appreciated
-
typically amps like this are internally paralleled. so it would be the same as if you wired the sub in parallel and only used one + n -. thats how my s2000.1 is so i just paralleled and ran one set of pos n neg
Ah I think I understand what your saying better than the first one... so what you're saying is to get a Dual 4 ohm and wire it down to 2 ohms and put the pos. in one and neg. in the corresponding other one? (Like having only the green wire in the diagram)
-
I hate to say it, but it looks like you cant do that.. The reasoning is that the amplifier you are using is a monoblock which has 1 output, just because it has 2 sets of terminals dosent mean they arent connected inside the amplifier. if you hook that sub up like you want to that amp will be seeing 1 ohm. you are gonna have to wire them in series and take the 4 ohm load to the amp, which i think puts you around like 800rms?? I would either get another sub and run two subs @4ohms then paralelled to the amp (2 ohms) or get a different amp altogether.. GOOD LUCK!
hmmm it seems more like the amp is 1 ohm internally...? and both terminals can see a minimum of 2 ohms...? That's what I see from that amp, it wouldn't make much sense if each terminal was only 4 ohm stable... and put 2 ohm stable next to it...
-
I've got a 2 ohm DVC sub and a Cadence ZRS-C65 with two outputs with 2 ohm minimum impedance. Can I put each voice coil on a output? I am asking because obviously I only get 1200 watts RMS off of each output, but the combined output is 2400 watts RMS. Hopefully that makes sense, pics below to explain more:
-
at least your alright... and live to make another car... sucks though I know, I did the same thing to my first car... didn't see him coming, but he was only doing 35, so not as bad...
-
-
'06 Scion xA
in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
Posted
Haven't been on here in a while, so here's an update to what I'm driving and bumping with:
And here's what I'm rolling in:
I do photography on the side so check out my page in the sig! If you live in the Midlands in SC, hmu fi you want some photos taken!