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Posts posted by soundsystemaniac
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Theres usually a reason, I heard that white light is pretty harsh on your eyes if your driving at night, blue is easier, same with stuff like red lights that the army uses, eyes adjust quicker to the dark with colours like blue and red when you look away, im not sure if its true but it seems to make sense...
eh, well it just seems like red and blue are so overused. thought id do something different. and the link that gally posted said that its auto dimming. that would be nice
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what about therse
hmm thats interesting...ill have to call tomorrow for pricing! thanks!
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yeah i saw that one but i cant find any in the rectangle shape
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Anyone know of someone that makes white digital voltmeters? in generally the same shape and size as the stinger meters...but with a white readout
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My fault, I was doin fiberglass @ work today and forgot to check the d3100 for u. I have the kinetics 2400's though for sure @ $150 used from a recent build a client never finished.
so youve got 2 kinetic hc2400s?
pm me please im interested
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My roommates got the 2009 fx sho. It's ridic. And he did like some crazy modifications so it goes like 75ish
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got a kicker zx1000.1 for 250 shipped. shoot me a pm if interested. THROW ME AN OFFER
Does 1000watts rms at 2 ohms and 500@ 4 ohms
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Got a kicker zx1000.1 for sale that does 500 watts at 4 ohms and 1000 at 2 if your interested at all
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Also, not sure if you thought about it, but you are building this in that SRT-8 Jeep yes? You might consider putting a layer of tint over the plexi since you said your buddy has luggages going in and out of there all the time. The plexi will get stupid scratched without some protection on it. I'm sure you've thought of this already, but wanted to give the input.
It is going to be in a SRT-8 yes. but a layer of tint is a good idea... i havent thought of that before. what im actually planning on doing though is making a slide and cover panel that is color matched that will be removable when he does want to put stuff in the back.
Like this: let me know what you think
This is what it would look like with the cover on:
I appreciate the input. My build log is in my sig if you wanna check it out
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Be VERY careful is you are thinking about drilling into plexiglass. Stuff cracks very easily and one crack, ruins the piece. I use plexi on a ton of enclosures for customers and I always use a drill press and SLOWLY punching down on the plexi (with a up and down motion) until it goes all the way through. That's the best way in my experience
Oh yes...the last thing i want to happen to this peice of plexi at $250 is to get any sort of cracks or splinters at all lol.
Thanks. i will take that technique into account. ive dealt with plexi a couple times but nothing like this. My concern would be the middle holes that im going to have to drill. the sheet of plexi is going to be 36" x 43". so idk how im going to get a drill press that far into the plexi.
Also, Ive seen drill bits that are specifically designed for plastic. have you used any of those or just used regular bits?
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Use a router and route out an area the size of the rod so it's countersunk into the wood, then predrill and screw it through the bottom and you will be good to go
well ive found that you can tap plexi but its risky due to breakage. my concern is if if will be strong enough to actually act as a brace instead of just decoration
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i know this isnt your question but is the bottom of that box open? just from the pic it looks like its sealed on bottom, sealed on top.
when i made plexi windows i used screws into the wood with washers pinching the plexi and caulking all around the joint. but that didnt need to hold any pressure because it was an amp rack, so...
yes. the bottom of the box is open. it is a downfiring box...with the subs "inverted" if you will. Yeah thats my only trouble is that it needs to be solid as hell. the only thing i could think to do would be to tap a bolt into the rod and through the wood
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Hello everyone!
In my next upcoming build, im going to be using a plexiglass window in my build. But i have a question...I was going to use 4 pieces of allthread through the middle of the box for bracing. N8ball suggested that i use plexi rods for bracing instead which would look 1000x better in my opinion. I have found proper adhesive that would bond the plexi rods to the window, but i am concerned about how to adhere it to the wood on the bottom of the box. i feel that no matter how good of a glue bond that i can get, it would seem easy to peel off the top layer of wood that the plexi rod would be attached to. SO, my question would be....do you guys have any suggestions on a good way to mount/adhere the plexi rods to the wood.
This is a picture of the sketchup design that will better explain what im planning on doing. you can see the 4 peices of allthread that would be in the center.
The top part will be 3/4 inch plexiglass
You can also check out the build log so far. its the first one in the sig. Leave me some input!
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yes thats all the room he has in the truck.
the rf is way to expensive lol.
anyone have any clapmed power at .75 ohm?
Just ordered the amp from audioque!
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bump for second opinions
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So ive got my buddys jeep srt8 jeep that im going to be doing a build with 4 JL audio 13tw5 subs which are thethinline subs. They each have single 3 ohm voicecoils which would give me the possibility of (and please correct me if im wrong) .75 ohm, 3 ohm, and 12 ohm. The subs are each rated at 600 watts rms...so im looking for one amp that would do 2400ish at any of those configs. As far as electrical goes, i will have 2 runs of 1/0 gauge, the stock battery and alternator up front, and then a xs d3100 in the back
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This is really funny lol
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dcsoundlab.com
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seen that first one in a mag and i actually believe they are 28" rims iirc
Edit: the back window says 2'4" lol=28"
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Do you have backseats?
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Damn supercharged! You love these threads lol...but to op, I love my dc equipment, and it seems like you have a lot of room to do whatever you want back there lol. 2x 15s or 18s would be sweet
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google sketchup
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White digital voltmeter????
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
LOL i didnt see that til just now hahahhahahahahah