soundsystemaniac
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Posts posted by soundsystemaniac
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so are the discounts and upgraded shipping still in effect? ill buy one today if they are
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regardless, it's not as impossible as it may seem. it's doable.
So your saying its doable, but that would require me to build it in the trunk right? I can get some more precise measurements soon
Edit: also, im limited in port sq inches to 100 because the ski hole pass is 8x17. and thats before wood thickness also. what kind 15" of subs do you think would do well in a smaller bandpass box
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well, i want to do bandpass as its the most efficient way to get all the bass into the car. esp since the back seats wont be flipped down. the 2600 will include a h.o. singer alt, a double din pioneer touchscreen, 2 sets of speakers, 4 channel amp, wiring, extra batteries, box materials that include plexiglass, so there wasnt too much room for overhead. what amp would you recommend? and if i did 2 15s, im looking at 400-500$ in just subs.
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hello everyone!
Ive got 2600$ to spend on audio equipment in a friends 2005 Nissan altima 3.5 SE sedan. it needs to be a well rounded system. with balanced mids, highs, and bass. Basically, im planning to run a crunch gp3000 for bass, and i need to know what i can fit in the trunk. I want do a bandpass box because my buddy doesnt want to have to have the back seats down as he often has more than 2 people riding around with him. and he wants to do 15s or an 18. So, i wanted to cut out the back of the rear center seat behind the armrest. and build a 4th order bandpass box with the port right through what will be a ski pass so that all the sound goes right into the cabin. now for some dimensions- the port opening will be 8 inches wide and 12 inches tall if i want to leave the flip down armrest on. if need be, i can get rid of it and have up to 17 inches tall if i need more port area. Now, i can build the box in the trunk if need be, but only if it means i can get 2 15s in a bandpass. in order to make a simple, removable box, my max dimensions are 34 wide by 28 deep by 18 tall. and that would put the box about 10 inches away from the ski pass, so the port would be internal and external. Is that enough space for a single 15 or 18 that would be happy with the crunch gp3000? i can get more exact measurements of the rest of the trunk if i need more airspace and decide i want to build the box in the trunk. ( but building it in the trunk would obviously give me lots more airspace. )
ok, now that im done rambling on and on,
any thoughts and constructive critizm is greatly appreciated.
I am looking foward to starting to buy equipment and getting this build rolling!
Thanks, Brandon.
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price on 2 level 2 10s d2 m1 shipped to 24014 please
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sounds awesome to me (literally) lmao!!!
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i cant wait to get demos!!
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aww man its been 6k dayz since anyone has!!! been drunk on this awesome site! what the fucrk! well mister brandon otis hrere is definitely drunk qs hell!!! whoooooohhhhhoooooorrwdcfchjbjdcehk,cjefncun
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interested in your hifonics brutus amp. pm sent.
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about to crack open some coronas with some limes and smoke some hookah!
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is there a chart as far as what car they fit in or is it just direct inquiries
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hey i can post in here i think, um foru hooked the fcuk up marggaritas in from my job andk about to order another set of twp fir ones! cheers everyboady
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prolly going in a 4dr tundra or tacoma... maybe 4 JL w7 12s? with two 1500 watt amps? or do i need more power?
that sounds about the right amount of power. but you can get SO much more for the money than w7s. just so you know. you might look into dc level 4 m1 if your looking for something at a lot better price that handles about the same amount of power as a w7. theres lots of other brands with great subs that are also cheaper and will outperform the w7 line.
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that is going to be A LOT of work!
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Interested in doing any trading?
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I wish there was a device that can tell you what kind of power each channel puts out. Not AD-1, but something like if you have 4 channel amp and each channel does 100wrms @ 4ohm, but speakers can only take 80wrms @4 ohms, you would just plug in the device and turn the gain up until it's gonna show that it's 80wrms
There is, its called a clamp meter and digital multimeter.
Once you clamp the amp you will know the power the amp is making.
There is now way to really tell other then that due to a speaker being a variable impedance, and with every frequency the speaker plays will result in a different amount of power being giving to the speaker. A
Another words if you are 100% sure the amp is making 80watts rms at 60hz, it does not mean it is making 80wrms at 100hz, or 50hz.
I wish at least the power at xx hz is consistent lol, or that they made something like a chart or something on amps and or subs that say...at this hz, this amp will make this power, and this sub will handle this power, and have it written in a way that everything just stops at a volume level of less than 1% thd and not be able to go any higher. Of course, i know that then again, all of those will vary dependant on different voltages, but i think there should be stricter regulations for specifications and ratings.
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the box is tuned at 30 Hz but my amp is only like 200 watts RMS. i can hear the bass by the walls but nothing in the middle of the room.
That is very interesting imo
Welcome to room acoustics
Here is a technique I found called bass crawling: Place the sub as close as possible to where your head will be - then crawl around on the floor and see where the bass is the loudest. Then put the sub in that spot, sit down, and enjoy.
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There will be 4 twisted pairs in that harness.
16awg, not the 20awg wires
They will all have a brown trace, that is your neg.
Should be yel, yel/brn
Bl, bl/brn
Bl/ red, bl/ brn
Yel/red, yel/brn
well, my buddy finally got around to doing this, and he cant get the door panel off entirely, so i told him to pull the b pillar and check for wires in there. so, on the passenger rear door, he found one pair of twisted wires, but they are yellow/brn, yellow/blk. could that be the speaker wire to tag off? (I suggested it would be easier to tag by the rear door instead of pulling the radio.
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for some reason or other, we got it for 100 bucks a month. and yeah i know its not the fastest, but its by far the fastest ive ever had or used. All i ever use it for is fb, youtube, and browsing these forums!
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I just moved into my brand new townhouse and my roommate always has to have the most insane internet lol
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and a million dollars shipping...
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ya mayhems dont do sealed so dont lisen to those guys
40 to 42 hz tunning works great for rock and still plays 32 hz with authority!
X2 on this......and i would like to add something. Get your MIDBASS game up as well. Don't rely JUST on the subwoofer
That goes for all music really but that's especially true if you are listening to music where REAL INSTRUMENTS were played and not just an 808.Thanks bassick.
and yeah im going to order some selenium midbass speakers and do a proper install in the doors. Thanks meade!
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the "what would you do with $2600 for audio equipment thread"
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by soundsystemaniac
so, ive got a buddy of mine that has a 2005 nissan altima sedan 3.5 se that im going to be doing a build for and his budget is $2600 for equipment plus my labor. I've got the money in my bank account ready to buy stuff with. This is going to be a build from basically a stock system to a full system with everything upgraded- double din head unit, 4 ch amp, front door and rear deck speakers, high output alternator, batteries, subs, bass amp, wiring, box and box materials, sound deadening, volt meter, and a plexiglass window. The only things that we have already is a steering wheel control interface, and a dash kit with a wiring harness and antenna adapter.
Here is what his expectations from the system are:
1. The system must be balanced at high volume with mids, bass and highs. (having some extra bass on tap will of course be necessary also)
2. The bass must be kept in the trunk-no wall- and the back seats will be up. Now, i am planning to cut a hole in the back seats where the center armrest is for a ski pass/port.
3. Everything must be reliable. I a lot of it know it depends on installation..but ive got that covered.
4. Voltage drop must be no lower than high 12s/prefrably low 13s at idle so im going to have to get the electrical to back that up.
Here is what we are thinking- and the budget that ive got set for most things. If there is something you would recommend me changing that you think would be better, please let me know.
head unit: $250 for a new baseline pioneer touchscreen radio-or a decent used one. im looking at
http://www.ebay.com/...4d94dd2&vxp=mtr
4 channel amplifier: $200 for a used amp-looking to find the older model crescendo c10004 hopefully.
Door and rear speakers: $160 for 2 sets of new Audioque pro audio mids and tweeters.
Sub amp- $350 for a used crunch gp 3000 amp.
Wiring: 125 for new Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge power and ground wire including wiring for the big 3. I was planning on just getting the CCA stuff since i have had good experience with that in the past. I was considering just one run of positive. What do you guys think will be necessary for those amps above?
Box and materials- im budgeting 70$ for 2 sheets of mdf, 12 bucks for screws, 5$ for wood glue and about $100 for a nice 3/4" plexiglass window that is cut to size
High output alternator: $420 for a mike singer 240 amp high output alternator.
Battery: $310 for a new XS Power D2400 battery. (any other suggestions would be helpful) Im scared to buy used batteries, but if you think it would be beneficial, let me know what you think i should buy and why!
Sound deadening: $100 for hopefully some second skin deadener (or i found a shop pack of stinger roadkill with 36 sq ft for 105 from sonicelectronics.com)
Voltmeter: $20 for a stinger voltmeter
Subs- that leaves me a budget of 475 for subs. I am going to do a single beastly 15 in a bandpass box ported through a ski hole
Okay, let me know what you all would change or do differetly, or if you think im on the right path. Keep in mind...$2600 is the limit!
or if you know of some good deals on something that would help me out- let me know!
Thanks for reading,
Brandon