bassl0va
-
Posts
1921 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by bassl0va
-
-
Yeah, 4.5 is way too small for a BTL 18. Go for 8, infact, it may possibly work in the 10 cube one you have now?
-
^makes sense, but no matter what shape the port is, edges are always going to make it more prone to noise.
-
^yeah. Just because it is round doesn't mean it is less prone to port noise. So if it isn't flared it stays at 12-16"s.
-
You'll be louder with the XLs and twice the power.
-
i was wondering if jl made replacement surrounds for the w7
If they do make them, which I think they do, you will have to get a recone, you can't just replace the surround, it has to be the whole cone/coil/spiders/surround assembly.
-
I call BS that you can't fit 2 ported 10"s in that car, judging by the pics on google anyway. It would be louder, play lower and you wouldn't need to spend money on unnecessary equipment. You don't need to go for 1.5 cubes anyway, you could get away with 1.2 each.
-
What I meant was that you should re-set the gains with the HU at flat, not just try it. But yeah,that and get a battery.
-
There is no point in all this safety stuff, as toady said, ifyou weld your trunk shut, they will just cut it open. Same goes for most security stuff. Just lock your car in a garage and install and alarm in your car.
-
Measure the output of the amp at full (if it doesn't cut out first) and see what it is doing. There would have to be some strange shit going on for it to be giving out full output (or maybe clipping) with the gain right down.
I'm pretty sure you should check if the amp is faulty before buying electrical upgrades.
EDIT: just saw that you said the woofer setting is right up on the HU, turn off all EQ and loud settings on the HU and re-set the gains. Then see if it is still doing it.
-
they werent even good tests
How would you test it then?
-
ehh i really dont have a set budget, but i do know im probably looking for another amp maybe, around 200ish for atleast solid 500watts. looking at the audioque1200d its $250 and i get a lil bit of headroom to play with on that amp.
but would you mind doing me a box design? could i port through where my 6x9's used to be?(taking them out)
Edit: i just searched and im seeing i can get a Audiopipe 1500d for around 150ish on ebay, and 120ish on amazon....
Yep, I can do a box design, just PM me and we can get started on the details
. And yep, you can port through there, infact, that's a really good idea.And about the voltage drop, I'm running 3KW off a stock 110A alt and a pretty decent battery (big 3 done ofcourse) and I don't drop into the 10s, so to make it that low with 300W is pretty strange.
-
thats why i use t-bolts not many crooks with allen keys on them, and prying those with a crowbar would be hard as hell. this time around if i can make my port big enough im going to put nuts on the end of my t-bolts. try to unthread that without a wrench.
If they can't take it off, you'll find a crowbar sticking out of your amp.
-
AudioWrap, Twistedchild tested it out and can't find a difference between it and Damplifier.
-
The box will affect the ohm load of the sub that the amp sees. I can't see how just a box can do that though, you sure you didn't change anything else?
-
Do the speakers you bought work on another amp?
-
what do you drive with that little power, a bicycle?
i ride your mom bish
I loled at these
Thanks man, well right now it's not the Kicker anymore, it's a US Amps MD-42 which I set to give me 150 rms to each sub. And I like how it sounds, it gets loud to me.
Thanks to my box design
.OP
I say you tell us your budget
-
$100 each sounds like a bit much. Haggle the price as low as you can.
-
the more cone area the better. A 15" lvl 5 would be king, that would definitely shake the car apart.
-
nice to see a kiwi bro how bout some fish and chips lol naa all good...how much shipping for them 15's? would one love say a soundstream 3400d? or 2 xl 10's get louder and deeper..im still new 2 car set ups and i get soundstream amps cheap off a dealer who knows the owner..or some crap
haha, fish and chips
.Yeah, a lvl 5 would love one of those amps. But I'd probably go for 2 of the XL 10"s (same amp) just because of double the cone area.
The 10" lvl 5 has a holy-crap-that's-a-big-sub factor though, even though the XLs magnet is only about 1" smaller. I'd go for the 2 XL's for loudness though.
-
Well I'm down here in NZ and I'm looking at 2 XL 15"s. Shipping isn't cheap to get it down here, although it probably isn't as bad to get it to Aus.
Probably 1.2 cubes or something for a ported 10" lvl 5.
-
The guy at the shop was being a dick, but you gotta respect that they have to try and sell their stuff so that they can put food on the table.
-
If he can build sealed boxes then he could build you a slot port. But if you wanted aeros then yeah, just get him to make a box, then you cut the holes.
-
You can PM me if you want.
-
Yeah, well I guess he just has to go for matching 15"s and a decent amp. It will still be better than half the stuff in town anyway judging by what he said.
.gif){kind=small}
. And yep, you can port through there, infact, that's a really good idea.
what do you drive with that little power, a bicycle?
.
.
Battling Imp rise?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by bassl0va
Are you saying that the impedance changes at various stages through the cycle when playing a single note?
Like if you play 20hz and the amp is wired at 0.5 ohms (lets say that the box is tuned low enough that the sub doesn't bottom out at full power with no subsonic filter) when the cone is moving it may go up to 2 ohms but when it reaches the peak of the cycle the ohm load drops down to 0.5? Is that what you mean? That would screw up the waveform wouldn't it o_O ?