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About bassl0va

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    Mr. 10dB/year
  • Birthday March 12

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    Wellington, New Zealand
  1. rear speakers will muck up the soundstage. If you are truly going for SQ the sub won't drown anything out because it'll be matched to a sensible level with the rest of the system.
  2. Based on what I can find about it it's just time alignment. You can do the same with clever speaker placement or processors.
  3. Why the hypothetical situation? I'd pay whatever is fair based on condition and market value.
  4. Yeah exactly and for the extra money you could go for more cone area or a better sub. Plus there's not really much point in car audio unless you want to start doing demo with organ music or movies. I don't think there's all that many subs that work well tuned low in a tiny box either. They're handy for HT subwoofers for those who have to worry about WAF though haha. Yeah I was wondering about that too. I think it'd appear as more complicated than just extra cone mass since it's practically a port. I'm thinking a 4th order wall full of these, who's up for it?
  5. I assume you have the fuse sized per manufacturer's recommendation? A fuse can take quite a long time to blow at its rated current, so it's quite possible it could deform plastic. Whatever happened didn't pull enough current to pop it instantly though, which is probably a good thing. EDIT: Or as Skullz says a bad connection in the fuse holder. That's probably you problem, voltage drop from that causing your amp to go into protect.
  6. if it's not been abused it should be ok. It'll be broken in for you Subs/speakers with soft suspensions that have been sitting on their magnets for years may have sagged. Otherwise I got no problem with second hand, almost everything I buy is.
  7. Came across this today. Interesting design and would probably be fun to play around with. Probably more use to the home theater crowd though, and even then passive radiators aren't popular. Not sure the one with a sub and PR mounted on the same module is a good idea, but could be interesting if it was 2 subs. Of course you could just build this sort of thing in with traditional drivers/PRs when making an enclosure, but it's cool all the same
  8. Then get whatever reputable brand is within a sensible driving distance. You must have something good close by. Just cause it's not a brand everyone talks about on here doesn't mean it can't be good.
  9. Nothing wrong with 12-13v. Beat on that all day as long as leaving the current sense disconnected doesn't cause any issues.
  10. Yeah that threw me too. Could mean they're the same but I doubt it. Best to email them and ask. I said they're off based on what I saw on the site, it says on there Qms 7.2, Qts 0.5 and Vas 17.5 for the ZV3 12, but that's for the dual 1 ohm version since as you said the dual 2 is incomplete.
  11. Vas is 17.5L according to the Sundown site, not 8L. If you got a spec sheet dw about it. Double click on the m next to xmax to change it to mm. Z is the impedance, probably should be 4 ohms since Re is typically less. Qms and Qts differs from Sundown site too, again, if you have a spec sheet that came with your woofer that's great and don't worry about what the site says. Pe is power, so 2000 I guess. Dia is probably diameter of the radiating area. Double click the m to change it to your favoured unit then put in the however wide the cone + half the surround is. Probably 10-10.5" but measure for yourself. Sd is cone area, if the spec sheet mentions it put it in, make sure you change it to the correct unit as well. If not then take Dia and multiply it by π2 I'd guess it's one way in winisd? It might say in the documentation. Just assume it is. If not, double the excursion is theoretically 6db more, of course it affects required port area and safe power input/hpf though but you're on the safe side with the last 2. Can always sim it with both 25mm and 50mm and see how it affects port velocity and max input power.
  12. Good descriptions of the various TS specs: http://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=faq1 Just put the relevant info from the Sundown site/spec sheet into the correct boxes and you should be all good to go.
  13. Maybe it is loud but he's already deaf?
  14. Thanks for your detailed reply. I wasn't aware that some are wound one coil on top of the other, I assume that's for ease of production? It seems like a trade-off and not what you want for best functionality and accuracy. Makes sense that it affects passive crossovers, don't know how many guys run their subs with a passive xo though Or for that matter how many dual coil drivers get used with passive xo. I've never seen anywhere any mention of it affecting enclosure design. I would have thought if it made drastic differences there would be a lot of info about what they are and how. Using only 1 of the coils certainly makes a difference though. Yep We certainly pay for it though, all the cool toys aren't cheap down here!
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