bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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Yes he could like the FI X12's but then he'll have less for the other things but if you want to see what they are here is the link.
Don't forget that he will have money from selling his current subs and amp, and the $500 budget was only for subs and an amp I think.
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lol. i seriously have to get the part under my avatar to say "SMD Ninja" or something like that.
Yeah, I swear you can sense when someone is replying and you jump in and post before them. Lol.
@skullz
those pioneers are nice subs, but I'm sure he can get something better for the money.
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Make sure you put some pretty good bracing in it, you'll need it with the lvl 5.
If you put elbows in then you just measure the length down the center of the port. The great thing is that if you run the ports through the seat or rear deck then most of the port isn't in the box which means that it should be easier to get the right tuning and have sufficient port area.
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Lol, hell no, you'd need to be running 20kw to need that, somehow I think that's not what you're aiming for in this build
.There should be a guide on here somewhere, but it is basically: batt - to engine block, batt - to ground, batt + to alt +
EDIT: Damn, ninja'd by Kranny
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There should be room for the big 3. It's only 3 pieces of 0g wire under the hood, so unless the engine bay is super tight you can easily do it.
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What about running them through the rear deck? That would be better than cutting hole in your seats. Also, what thickness wood are you using?
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I'd use strong as heck epoxy.
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I'm still here if you need help you know, I sent you an idea and you never replied?
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Your welcome, I hope it goes well
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lol.
If you ain't got anything good or useful to say then GTFO.
We all have to start somewhere, I'm sure you started with something similar.
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lol, people who cant read...
Like u he also liked earth shattering bass.
So no SQ for him.
Fail by me,
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I just went and bought the sub and amp got a cadence pack 600watt mono amp and sub in box for $230, Now the guy said the amp has a fuse so I wouldnt need one to be installed. Also my battery is in the boot of my car. Now i'm having second thoughts installing this myself.Thinking i should get a fuse still and also ground cable and the remote wire to turn the amp off with the car has got me confused what to do.
What the guy at the shop said to do is connect the amp( This new mono amp has inputs and outputs), So i connect the mono amp and head units pre outs to the mono, Then output the mono amps signal to the input of the old 4x200 amp.
Just confused on installing it myself, I forgot about ground cable and remote wire. Also dont know if i should go get a fuse or not.
Whether the amp has one or not, you need one at the battery. If the power wire slips out of the amp and touches ground, the fuse in the amp isn't in the circuit anymore so something will catch fire (probably the wire) and your car will burn to the ground.
If the mono amp has a full range output (pass through) then just use that, it will work fine too.
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I'm not 100% on this but do I just connect fuse and wire the other amp to the battery and use the Y splitter to split the pre out cable into another line for both the amps. So i will need 2 splitter cables one for each side?
The fuse should go as close to the battery as possible and then run a wire to the back of your car and into a distribution block that splits to both the amps.
The HUs pre out (if it only has one ofcourse) goes to the splitter which then goes to both amps, or, if your mids/highs amp has a pass through output then just run that to the other amps input. If you need to use the splitter method, yes, two of them.
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If you are on a cheap budget, a Y-splitter will work ok. No need to pay someone if you know reasonably well what you are doing.
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do they really count that as a hair trick shit i might be able to pull that off
Not really, the window should really be fully down (and to to a fully proper hairtrick the hair should float up). I don't think there is a strict definiton of a hairtrick though (car audio dictionary anyone?)
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140 - bump
145- eh. kinda tickles
150- starts to hurt
155- owwwww..
160-wtfmynoseisbleeding
165-my eardrums are dead
170-jesus balls lemmeoutta here
180-*imploding organs and various other gore*
^ fixed it.
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2 10s = :hairtrick:
That window is quite high up, more than halfway.
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When you say quality music you mean SQ right? You won't really need 15"s or 18"s for SQ. A 12" or 10" (or two 10"s) will add enough bass for balanced sound. BTW for all those who can't read, I'm not saying that only small subs are good for SQ, I'm saying that you don't need that much bass for SQ, you only need enough for it to be balanced.
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HA! told u skittles!
thnx ed
.the louder u are the closer the comparison tho, bcuz a sound wave starts to distort & turn into a shockwave =].
(183 is 2x as loud as 180)
But I don't think that any of us on here can say that we have heard such a level
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The DD components are pretty nice and they would take 100 watts fine (make sure you have the HPF on though)
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since my car is peaking at 50hz is that because the box? or its just my car period? so would a new box help me? my subs/box dont like anything under 35hz. well its not that loud in my car. please help
It could be a combination. You need a sub with a flat response (or known response I think, but flat would be better) then put it in the car and play a sweep. Then you can work out your cars response.
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a bass knob will not BOOST your gain it ATTENUATES it. The knob at it's full potential basicly opens up your amp to where it's gain is set.
How do you use it properly? Turn the knob all the way up before setting your gains!
This isn't rocket science people. They don't cause clipping, clipping is caused by user error (and on rare occasion, music producer error like a couple of the guys wishing they were decaf on this site...)
I'm suprised it got this far before someone said this. Only thing is that 'bass knob' can also include the ones that boost at around 45hz, not just the gain cut ones. In the case of the bass boost knobs you just set the gains at the boost center frequency with the knob at max, so as long as you know how to set gains properly and know what type of knob you have (lol, that's what she said) it doesn't matter.
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by getting a H/o alt do i have to worry about it overcharging my electrical if im not playing my system?
What are you running? Are you sure you need a alt? You may be fine with a good battery.
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Ive been searching for a Chiltons torrent or something but I cant find one, know a site that has them ?
Nope, just check out google or a library for manuals, you should be able to find one pretty easy.
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Need help deciding an amp for 2 15" subs
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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I thought the plan was that he gets a different box too?