bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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So the bumper is rattling against the side of the trunk? Some weather stripping or something like that might help, you'd have to take off the bumper though and put it where the panels meet but align it so it doesn't poke out the sides.
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You could use a giant beach ball glued to a 4" piece of pvc hung from something and slowly wrap it in paper mache till its hard enough to hold its shape to apply some mat and resin and then build up some layers till its thick enough.
I think he was meaning a cylindrical enclosure instead of a sphere. Great idea though, it makes me want to try it.
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I would probaby make a square enclosure a little smaller than the spare tire well so it can slide in and then cut the top part where the sub would mount a big cirle a little larger than the tire well and then... Idk the pieces are there, someone could make a good idea out of it.
That would waste probably 1/3 of the space in the well. But if they don't need the full volume then it would work.
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Learning fast you are, young jedi.
hehe :cheers:
you could probably find someone on this site that will fix it for you for cheaper than a shop. If you could even find a shop that fixes amps.
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I wanna do a center port, is this possible for these subs?
How exactly do i calculate the port length and such
You can do a center port with anything, it just depends on how you design the box, the shorter the port the better for center ports if yu want the enclosure to be a single chamber, once it gets the ports width from the back of the box you have to make it two seperate chambers with a divider down the center of the port.
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I did tune the gain, i put it to about 3 out of 11 ..
What im asking is if this is safe?
If i have it any lower than 3, then i get virtually NO Bass out of the Amp ..
3db is what sounds good, just dont wanna blow the sub ..
Do you have a DMM? If you don't you can buy them for about $10 for a cheap one which will do the job. Then find the right voltage for the wattage and ohm load that you are using (there is a chart somewhere, if you tell me the ohm load I can tell you the voltage) and put the dmm probes across the sub and play a 50hz test tone and turn the gain up until you get the correct voltage.
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Anything made by Fluke
(mostly expensive but that's the only way to get proper quality)
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Im assuming you mean a better brand?
Yep. Like DC or Fi or something.
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90% install. They aren't actually too bad, but you might as well just get something better for the money.
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no lol im not retarded lol they are all the same
ill put them all on the same brand/model amps too
Cool. Then I agree with when that other guy said about doing 4 of them ported. You'd want about 6 cubes after displacement, can you get that?
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Just asking, the subs are all the same I hope? Not different models/brands?
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What do you mean? With half the subs it is going to be quieter unless you add power.
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yeah that what it is. Will replacing this part repair the entire amp?
should do, unless the faulty MOSFETs took other parts with them when they went down.
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Don't some amps kinda screech when they go into protect? The magic smoke didn't escape did it?
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was thinking I could put em under my desk, lol
I vote for this idea
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2004???
6th word.
Hyundai
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Ok, everything good now, was just some loose connection. I have another question idk if it has any correlation or not. Whenever i turn my car/headunit on i get a loud start up noise, how do i stop it lol?
What kind of noise? It is probably a ground loop or some other grounding issue. Boon had a ground loop where you would turn on the car/stereo and get like 30 seconds of wub wub wub wub wub from the subs.
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I'm guessing that the speaker outputs are at rail voltage, how that happened and what is causing it? Don't ask me, I don't have a clue. But that's what would make the sub do that.
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How big is your stock alt? Like 110A?
I say you won't need a new alt for 2.5KW.
Too many people on this site saw Steve put in a whole load of alts (he does actually need them with 30KW) so they go and do big electrical upgrades where they aren't needed.
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Be careful with this because if you set the gains while it was in the quiet state then you could be clipping it quite a bit when it jumps into the louder state.
And x2 on the grounds
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How would I go about hooking up an amplifier to it? I have bypassed the amplifier in the trunk because the 104 model (faulty) suppressed the bass, meanwhile the 103 amp (correct amp) worked fine. It had line level signals going to amp, but now that I bypassed it the speakers are getting speaker level signal directly from the head unit. Would I be able to hook up for instance...Front Left + and - to an input on amplifier, and then have a Front Left + and - output, but with increased power?
As Skittles said. Unless you can increase your budget then you will have a hard time getting an amp, wire, speakers and all the other stuff. But when you do get an amp you can't just plug speaker wires into the RCA sockets. That's what the converter that Skittles was talking about is for. You plug the speaker wires in one side and a set of RCAs into the other. I reckon just get some nice speakers for the time being and save for a sutable amp. Unless you can get more money now of course.
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I'm running a Atomic 3k and 2 channel off a 20 year old head unit. So I'm sure you can hook up a 4 channel to your stock one. Especially since you say there is a amp in there already. Swap that out for somthing decent and it will sound many times better than the head unit amp. Especially with new speakers.
Oh and use AC voltage first and put the probes across the speaker terminals. Then use AC current and play the same tone/clip of music (tones are better) and put it in series with the speaker (unhook one of the speaker wires, place one probe on each of the now open terminals) then multiply the numbers you got together. I bet it is going to be about 15 watts RMS.
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well does it matter if my seats dont fold back???? nd i still dont have a box yet had all my stuff stolen so im startin fresh with 2ss xxx 15inch woofers on a xxx6500
If your seats don't fold then it won't fire into he cabin. And you will be severly restricting them.
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I fixed a DUB 10" and built it a 2.4 cube (far to big lol. Gonna put two 10"s in it later) tuned to 19hz. It played mean low but didn't really use the power to the best of its abilities. So I shortened the ports (not sure of the tuning now, about 30hz maybe. Much louder and lots of room for more power. Although there is some port noise at <20hz you can't hear it over music/movie effects and this could be fixed with flares on the ports. Also as there is more headroom it can now be tuned to give better response at lower frequencies.
Moral of the story, experiment.
Might be a problem, what do you think?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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Depends on the car, some are put together like freaking chinese puzzles. But because it is a bumper it should be pretty easy, have a look for a repair manual for your car, it will probably show you where to find the few bolts that hold it on are.