bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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Have you seen thorshammers (rob's) car? If not, find that on YouTube.
You basically wall the trunk, like walling the cabin except the wall starts where the opening from behind the seats goes inti the trunk.
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lol
our exact convo was
me: why did you get this amp u should have got a mono block
him: no thats stupid monoblock is for 1 sub and 2 channel is for 2 and so i got a 4 channel amp so i can add on later(he was yelling basically) lol
me: ok ok god damn!
Sneak of with the 4 channel and buy him a monoblock. Then sell the 4 channel. Honestly, damn how can people think these strange things. Or send him here for a small grilling and then a education. That amp is not going to like those subs.
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Why the heck did he buy that amp for those subs?
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post your budget and what you are looking for and there is much to be had out there besides kicker. jesus.
He already said he's getting a 2515
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I'll try new mosfets, sounds simple enough and if that doesn't work then i'll fork out the money for a new amp.
Any good places to buy new mosfets?
There are many different types, find the part number on one of the original ones, check out radioshack and other electronics stores for it. If they don't have it either try ebay etc. or use google and find equivalent models of whatever you have, then repeat the process.
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deff 2 15s ported!! also id put maybe 6 or 8 8 inch midbass/range speakers and do 4 or 6 bullets wont be the clearest in the world but will sound ok n u will be able to here the words over bass... got 8 8inch emeince in my car now 2 6.5s and 8 bullets and 2 comprestion horns n ud be suprised how clean it sounds!!
I'm pretty sure that would be a bit to overboard for this build. 2 sets of nice components would do a good enough job to start off with.
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because infinite baffle never used to mean having the sub 100% unloaded in a free air environment. It meant the baffle was in an infinite loop around the sub totally enclosing it.
Ahhhh. That makes sense. Who changed the meaning then? A company? Or just some random who ended up starting a revolution? lol.
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it's the original name for a sealed enclosure, "infinite baffle" is an off shoot of dipole which is subs mounted free air on a baffle of certain size. if you really think about it infinite baffle doesn't even make sense to describe the type of install it is being refereed to as
I know that that is what they called sealed boxes. My 30 year old wharfedales are classified as infinite baffle. Even a large room can't be an infinite baffle. My question is that how can a box which is not too much bigger than the vas even be considered an infinite baffle? It is even less infinite than a room.
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General rule is 10xVAS.
Funny thing is, infinate baffle is (was) actually the term for a 'sealed' enclosure, as the mounting baffle extended infinately around the loudspeaker.
Cheers,
Mick
Of course you can't have a infinite wall with infinite air on each side, but how is a sealed considered a infinite baffle?they never have 10x the vas, well, depends on the sub, but not often.
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Cool! you will probably be able to get some great subs and amp/s for 1500 then. What brand/model would you be interested in for subs/amps?
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Depends what you have now, you might already have half the stuff you will need. But yeah, from scratch it could easily get over 1500 if everything was going to be new.
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Not to make this sound like an ad but if you have a iPhone/iPod touch check out this awesome app called oscillator, variable level from 0db to -infinity, frequencies from whatever numbers you put in (say 10 to 20000 or only 30 to 35), sine, square and sawtooth waves aswell as white noise. And left to right fade. It's only a dollar too.
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2 15"s is fine. As long as you can get about 4 cubes after displacement. I don't know about using SDCs, aren't they relitivly low power subs? Not saying a wall has to use super powerful subs, but generally they do.
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I thought that you had to be like 4 times the vas to have IB but I can't remember at the moment.
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Infact. The car would act as an enclosure so it wouldn't really be a IB, more of a leaky sealed. A car is too small to have a proper IB IMHO
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I'm pretty sure the most common answer you will get is try it and see. Unless someone has done it the exact same way you will no one can really say. It would probably be better to use a sub that is designed more towards an IB setup.
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You lost me. lol
You know those numbers labeled Qms Qts Qes etc. etc. Pretty much they will most likely be different between the two different coil options you listed. But that's probably beside the point at the moment. I'd go for the dual 2. Solely because you have more wiring choices.
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You shouldn't need an alt. I've got a Atomic 3k and 80.2 running off a stock alt and semi upgraded battery. Soon to add a 50.4 to that as well. At the moment it doesn't drop below 12v with the engine running. But I really should get another batt. So I'm sure you will be fine. I'd add it on and keep the stock. Can't be anything bad about having that bit of extra power, make sure your alt can handle charging both though. But I'm sure it will be fine. \/ read what boon said in my sig. Lol
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You will also get different T&S parameters with the different coils. Especially the Q values. I'd go for the dual 2, more options.
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make sure you can get the box into the trunk if you build it outside of the car 8 cubes is a big box
x2 on that.
OP not that much more will be added, probably under one cube. And maybe an extra battery wouldn't need an alt though.
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WOW!!!!! All that ish just got me confused along with the damn wiring!! lol...Wouldnt you guys just suggest get new speakers instead? lol..But anyhoot, the tweeters are rated at 40 watts rms each if that helps. That jus seems too crazy for me to do all that when I can just sell them or put em in my wifes car. I just loked at the Powerbass 6.5in 4ohm mids, would these work in place of the American Bass's?
You can get new speakers if you want but it is possible with what you have. I'm thinking now that a 4 channel might actually be a better choice. And a low pass crossover for the 6.5s as built in low passes only start at around 250ish and you would want one at like 1-1.5khz and the tweeters starting at like 2khz.
Yep, they would, but I don't think they will make it any easier.
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You haven't got the amp yet eh? might as well go for the 1.5k and give then 750 each. The subs displacement is probably only like 0.2-0.25 each. 8 cubes after displacement. so the port gets added on.
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Um what are they rated for? 750 each right? I'm pretty sure they would be better off a 1500 if they are rated for 750. Yep. Depends on thesubs really. You probably only need 7 cubes for lvl3s but I'd do 8 personally. After displacement of ofcourse.
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I was thinking 2 lvl 3 15s ported, and I can fit 12.4 cubes with a rectangle box, I could add a 24x10x20 back to it, and have a totall of 15.1 cubes an I could possibly squese out some more on the edges if I really needa to
Plenty for 2 15"s ported. cool. 2 lvl 3 15"s
replacement car speakers
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Yep, separate mids and tweeters are known as components. I'd say don't go for 6x9s in the rear. Just a set of 6.5" coaxials will be just as good, probably better. You could stay under $150, although you won't get anything toooo special for that. If you are upgrading the speakers you should get a amp for them, the head unit will not put out enough power to drive them properly. Also, you would need to measure voltage and amperage across say a 4 ohm load (as that is most likely what your upgrade speakers will be) and then multiply the two numbers.
You will probably find it is like 15 watts, better off getting a nice 4 channel.