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bassl0va

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Posts posted by bassl0va

  1. you said "no, dont do it"

    all of car audio is a waste of time and money to someone. and yes i know what PA woofers are meant to play. im not stupid

    i say try it. if all else fails the guy will have some nasty kick bass.

    Thats just my opinion, he doesn't have to listen to me.

    Yes, a lot of people think it's a waste of time and money, but I'm saying that compared to what he could do, I don't think it's worth it. 1 15" or even 1 12" designed for car audio and made by a proven brand would be a better choice IMO.

    Define "nasty", do you mean nasty thats horrible, or nasty thats great?

  2. why cant he do it?

    let him experiment. he might like it

    I never said he can't.

    I said that I think it's a waste of time and money. PA woofers cones aren't as strong as car woofers cones, they also don't play as low. PA woofers like kicks etc. and probably like 60-120hz the best, rather than <60hz like car woofers play. PA woofers are very different to car woofers.

    He can try it, but I don't think it will turn out well.

  3. Yes they are rated at 500 watts RMS 1000 max. I have always been a believer in bigger is better when it comes to amps. Thats why they make the amps adjustable.

    And yes they are P3D412.

    Bigger is better within reason. You don't get a 2000 RMS 15" and put it on a stretsom 10k, the sub will die instantly. But having that 2000 RMS 15" on a 2.5k amp can be good because then you know you have a little extra power to make up for box rise etc.

  4. i seen a pic of one what had mtx 1,000,000 on the back of it and thought mtx made it but now that i seen this and it looks to be the same sub

    i wanna hear this

    i kno mythbusters did a shit job on that "sub" they built

    first off, the movement wasnt liner like a normal sub is, it was all weeble wabble type shit

    i mean come on, they could have worked more on it than they did and could have had something twice as cool

    but i do admit that 156db @15htz is still sick tho

    but with that area they could of done more subs, but for some reason, why the hell dont other people put subs like they had there faceing up and brace the shit out of the roof?

    maby it would be louder to have subs faced up witout seats and what knot in a spl type vehicle?

    anyways enough with the babble, i still think thats cool and what about that sony sub they made? it was like 40inch or something like that, i got a dvd with it in it, i unno if it works or not tho, its hanging from the celing

    Where is this? Is it on youtube?

  5. I would prefer to use the USB line out, as this means no clipping from the ipod (unless clipping on the song), however ith a 3.5 jack into the headphones you may turn it up too loud on the ipod. Just a thought

    My iPod touch was scoped, and at max volume playing 0db test tones, there was no clipping. This was without any eq activated, as long as you keep it off or set to flat, it should be fine, but thats only for iPod touches and iPhones.

  6. I'm Looking into upgrading from 1 12" sub to 2 12" Fi SSD's. I'm still shopping around & looking for suggestions on amp & how I should set it up. I was wondering if I should run 2 - 800 Rms amps, 1 - 800 x 2 channel, or if 1 - 1600 x 1 channel is possible.

    I was also wondering if someone could clear up what some of these abbreviations mean.

    Fs: 30.1 Hz | 30.1 Hz

    Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil

    Qms: 7.65 | 7.65

    Qes: .37 | .37

    Qts: .36 | .36

    Mms: 248g | 248g

    Cms: 0.11mm/N | 0.11mm/N

    Sd: 480cm^2 | 480cm^2

    Vas: 36.5 l | 36.5 l

    Spl: 86.1dB 1W/1m | 86.1dB 1W/1m

    Bl: 13.1 N/A | 18.7 N/A

    Fs = resonant frequency of the speaker

    Re = dc resistance of the coil

    Qts = the total quality factor of the speaker at Fs

    Vas = volume of air that offers the same degree of restoring force on the cone as that of the cone's suspension

    Spl = sensitivity of the speaker at 1 watt RMS (different companies measure it at 0.5m) But the standard is 1 meter

    Thats all I know

  7. loading is when there is pressure...btw port tuning is not the end factor of how subwoofers load, don't forget f3 of the box..i have a box at about 7.1 cu ft. with a dd 9518 in it tuned at 42hz and i play a song like i luv your girl for ex. at 31hz fine...lots of deciding factors if the sub will bottom out..hell sometimes subs can bottom out just by opening a window.

    Doesn't that only happen in extreme cars and the few others that are loaded off the air in the car?

  8. I'd do subs up, port back, like Steve. That configuration seems to work the best for a non-wall in SUVs.

    If it's got 4 cubes per woofer and it's not tuned between 30ish and 35ish hz then ask him to change the tuning, but if they don't have 4 cubes each, your kinda screwed.

    Check back here with the info he gives you though.

    I'd get another one of the 5k Atomics, they are great amps, very worth keeping.

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