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Posts posted by bassl0va
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Be careful with neo's... if you have two the size of the palm of your hand and roughly 1" thick they have capability to crush your hand...
Thanks on identifying that, Forevrbumpn, now just gotta find better pictures of it.
Yeah, I know how lethal they are, you'd probably have to shield the magnet otherwise it would kill people/break lots of stuff.
Still, someone needs to try it..
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I found this quote of the Adire audio parthenon very intresting...
"A single driver existed that could displace the same amount of air as thirteen JL Audio 13W7's"
And damn the Parthenon, looks really sexy and with a xmax of 72mm it is just insane.
Heck yeah, it's amazing, especially with a rear excursion limit of 173mm (or 100 and something) and theoretically unlimited forwards excursion! Lets get some magnets from http://unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=70_71 and make one!
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OVER 9000!
Your probably right though, unfortunately
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Has anyone ever made a DC lvl5 sized magnet out of neodymium iron boron magnets? This ferrite stuff (Iron and ceramic or something like that) is old and boring, and cheap. If no one has, how much would it cost to do so?
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He doesn't want comments cause he knows he is inferior
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sorry im a female thanks for informing us what you do in your spare time.......
Made me lol.
Like everyone else said, if it's in a pre-fab box, build a custom one, there are many people on here that can design it on here *cough* including me *cough*. It will sound many many times better with a custom box.
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I'd say get a proper 4 channel amp too. It's a better investment.
With the big 3, it's really easy, unless your vehicles engine bay is super crowded.
If you have your engine running you won't be dropping below battery voltage, you'd hit 12v in the worst case, which is fine. A wise man once said 'This website has a boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades' his wise words are mentioned in my signature. He has also said that only the term lab cares for voltage drop, which is very true (unless your dropping to like 10v or less, which is near impossible unless you have 20kw on stock electrical), a person can not notice the difference between a amp running on 13.8v and a amp running on 12v, and the amp doesn't mind much either.
There is not much point in a cap, some people notice a change, but I'm sure you'd just be throwing money away (that could be used on a later upgrade)
Just put those 6 by 9s on the 4 channel amp, they will epic suck on a HU.
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Usted podría Rusty correo electrónico de la CC y pedirle costo de envío. Estoy seguro de que podría enviar a algunos subwoofers muy buena. DC naves a casi todas partes.
Lo siento si esto no tiene sentido, he usado traductor de google.
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You could email Rusty from DC and ask him for shipping cost. I'm sure he could send you some very good subwoofers. DC ships to almost everywhere.
Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I used google translator.
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I would think that this is staged. He could have a wall in that car, you never know because it's edited. You could have a look at Ed's science behind hairtricks videos. They have some pretty interesting info.
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o ok sounds good. now if i have to use my music should i just download a sweep and like bass notes from 30 to 48 hertz box is tuned 2 40 hertz
It could peak at 50. so something from like 30 to 60 or even 30 to 70. When you are checking your peak, don't have it full blast so you don't bottom out any subs etc. as long as you don't touch the volume during the sweep. After that blast that peak tone! I'd do the idea that skittlesrgood suggested, and do it with the driver door, or if you want you can try both, but driver should be louder.
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Definitely looks like my dead DUB. Surprisingly, they have some decent parts in them, I wouldn't pay that much for one though, and I wouldn't trust their ratings.
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Read about it in a book from the library in college, so no, I don't... but they used to do it WAY back in the day when permanent magnets were expensive.
Woah, I would have thought wire would always cost more O_o .
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Not to sound like a dick but
First: CAN U NOT TYPE LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT GETS REALLY ANNOYING AND THE LACK OF GRAMMAR REALLY ANNOYS PEOPLE
Second: Steve probably won't reply to questions, he generally doesn't hang around these kinds of threads. So giving him a big won't make any difference (even though he deserves a huge )
Third: The caddy doesn't get busted out for anyone and if it does, generally he's fixing it.
Now that thats over, I would suggest better subs and batteries, and probably amps too. DC, DD, Sundown, Fi, RE etc. for subs, kinetic or XS batteries and amps, well, theres far to many to list.
Jumping from 2k to 10k is a huge leap, I would suggest you get some in between systems first before doing a wall.
Oh, and you can't know it will be loud, you can guess, but weird stuff happens.
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That was done back in the 1920s... IIRC.
Got any links?
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Just get a better amp, one that is 1ohm stable, that way you can upgrade subs and use the same amp later on, and still have a amp that will work great with the sub you have at the moment.
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You could use an iPod or USB stick, pretty much anything that uses flash storage
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how about an electromagnetic motor (in place of the standard magnet structure) coupled with a voice coil? I asked Dan Wiggins that one once iirc and tossed a few emails back and forth but didnt get very far on it.
Quite... I have been thinking about this allot, but have never asked. I was thinking it would make it more impractical and cause issues with linearity, but I want to hear what the pros say
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I fit has to be off that list, I'd go for the RE, otherwise DC like everyone else says.
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I'm saying 10v of money man is the same as 10v of lady gaga. There is no difference if the amp can get the current it needs it will see 10v all the time.
signature worthy!
It shouldn't be toooo bad, depends, running 8v will kill something, 11v would probably not change much.
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To answer your question,
No you can't use that box and just stick a few ports in it.
1. Ports require precise calculations, and a box built around those. There's 100x more to a ported box than you probably realize, no offense.
Advice
1.Sell 2 of your subs
2.Use money to build/get built new ported box
3.Never use 1/2" (Inch) MDF (Wood) when building a box, NEVER. Use 3/4" at a minimum. 1/2" MDF is worthless, they should save some glue and quit making it...imo.
x2
Especially with the MDF part, the only thing you are allowed to use 0.5" MDF for is trim panels for boxes. Or if you own a cheap audio company, in which case it makes awesome and cheap 0.5 cube boxes, especially if it's made of chipboard
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yeah shit. i might just sell the amp and get something that can go to 1ohm.
thats probably you best choice.
Sundown maybe?
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got pictures, grab a jig saw and cut a bigger hole. build a new port and glue/screw it on.
This or new box pretty much.
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You can use the screws to clamp the wood together while the glue dries. No point in taking them out afterwards either.
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http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5629
http://www.codrive.com/basstr.htm
http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/1201/adire-audio-parthenon-revisiting-the-ultimate-subwoofer < the video on this page is just wrong
hmm... I wonder
Anyone else got examples of split motor and similar designs?
^ P audio used to make subs like that, from 6.5-15". I was going to get one but they said they no longer sold them
Those other ones are quite interesting though, independent research FTW!
Am I going to hell?
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Stupid kid, why didn't he the cougar?