bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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You can fiberglass a pod, then attach it to the door, then put some kind of stuff over the door to cover the seams, such as vinyl or carpet.
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Yep, get the other 4. It will make the funniest build log
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lol, no one has commented because you put funky pup in the title. What has junky pupz got to do with your pyles o' poop?
sorry, couldn't help myself. Wonder how the pyles will workout? -
Wow thank you moto211!
I do have a question tho, This design is 3 cubic feet and the subwoofer says I can't go any higher than 2.0 cubic feet ported so is this a problem?
These are just recommendations, my sub recommends 3 cubes, I have it in 8 cubes, and running off twice the RMS that it is rated for, yes it get s very warm, but as long as you are careful it doesn't matter. You won't have this problem though as you are only over by <1 cube and probably giving it rated power.
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Ok thanks man and for not thinking I'm crazy lol but mdf rings are gonna surround the subs and the outside of the rings are gonna be the ports so very very custom one of a kind its gonna be a lot of work and about 100 mdf rings but I'm gonna be patient and hope its all worth it
Sounds cool, the thicker the wood you can get in the better. Make a build log please. It sounds interesting
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No 1/4 inch thicker but 3 18" AA smd's
three of those monsters in a blowthru! Dude, your nuts. You could use 3/4 MDF, then do all the other stuff, but only do it where it won't interfere with mounting.
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Cuz its a blow through in my truck can't go no taller then it won't fit and thicker then 1/2 inch I won't have the mounting diameter
Well. If you glass and resin and CF it, won't it be to thick? what size sub/subs are you trying to fit?
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24 inches lol I havnt built the box yet and yeah three one watt led. Ok besides wood how can I make it really strong without goin so thick on wood?
Yeah but to have it 24, you have to divide the port area between your ports to work out how many you need, then they all have to be 24".
Um, you could use granite, I hear that makes amazing boxes. Or if you can't find granite, lead might work, or steel. Honestly, why don't you want to go thick on wood?
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Way too big man the specs say 2.5 is the largest
Thats recommended size, My 18" says to put it in a 3 cube box, I have it in a 8 cube one, and off twice the rated power, it gets warm but it still goes fine.
I'd say <2 cubes for the 12" if it's going to be given that much.
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Can you stop double posting please?
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Well you will see inside my box on the ports and its internal bracing total three studs so that's what I'm trying to figure out how long the ports need to be
unless there are LEDs inside you wont see much. It's still too thin!
So those ports you have are extendable? I think someone said how long you need up there ^ somewhere.
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wrap the outside in carbon fiber
. It's a waste to have carbon fiber and not show it.It's still not going to be a good as if it was made out of 1" with all that stuff, look at all the 15 cube boxes on here, 3" thick with fiberglass etc. too. Your box will be flexing like a (someone help me out here?).
Also we don't k now how long those ports you have are. Info, info, info.
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How long does the port need to be? Its 180 square inches 15 cube feet. 12 square inches per cube foot tune 30 hertz thanks. How long does the port need to be?
If you gave dimensions and wood thickness it would be far easier to work out.
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Yo WTF are y'all talking about? I just need the box demensions
Dude, you should know what they are talking about, read your title, then their posts.
Be careful with your titles
Oh, PM me how much room you got and i can design you one
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Take the woofers out, measure them. Generally 3ohms=4ohms in subwoofers because they measure the impedance not the DC resistance. Like someone else said put a 9v battery on the terminals (without the amp connected to the subs
)they should both move out, but if the both move in its fine too. As long as they move the same way. Maybe give us pics or vids of them. -
So the 5-6 dB gain is worth the $400? or could the money get something even better?
It is a theoretical 5-6db gain. If you do it properly it could be more, if you do it wrong (or ghetto or whatever) you could have no gain. If you put it in the same box off the RMS that the sub is rated for, you should get about 6db of gain. Thats all just numbers though, it's different in the real world. I would expect 6db though. You could buy cheaper stuff and have more cone area etc but it would probably be worse because it's cheap stuff.
You could also build your box like thorshammer and his 10"s. build a box with sub and port forward and seal off the trunk, you would need to fold your seats down though. You could also build a bandpass (tricky to design, but there are some on here that can) and port through the rear deck, you wouldn't see your sub though (unless you put a perspex side on the box (not cheap to do).
I would say your best bet is to get the stuff you have planned for, and build a new box, or if your current box is already awesome, then just upgrade the sub and amp.
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So you think that gain is good? or should i go even bigger if i can find a sweet deal on a AQ2200
If the 2200 has a higher sensitivity than the copper one, then go for it. Otherwise there will not be a super difference between the copper and the aluminum coil ones. 6db gain is great, if you built a new box, you might be able to get more.
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And yes it did help bassslova. So do you think i would gain about 15 more dB? (by tripling power RMS rating)
You need 5 times more power for it to sound 3 times louder. 3 times the RMS will only increase by 6db. say you gave your alpine 3 times more power (if it didn't roast with the power) it would be 1.5 times louder. If you change subs to one with a lower sensitivity and keep the same power it will be quieter, change to one with a better sensitivity it will be louder.
You though are upgrading both. I don't know what the sensitivities are for AQ and the alpine, but lets say they are both 90db/1w/1m therefore in a box (they are probably measured in a sealed one) of the same size for both off 1w, they will theoretically be equal. but if you raise the power to the highest RMS for both, the AQ will be louder, as it can take 3 times more power. So in this theoretical sealed box that they are measured in, the alpine would do 117db, and the AQ 122db. This is in a crappy box with identical sensitivities. Therefore you should get at least 6db
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thanks for answering those, really helpful. So now im thinking the kickers are out of the question.... half a dB louder for $300 more and less SQ...no way im doing that haha
i understand its impossible to give a dB number, I just want to know if i will be expecting 3x louder than my alpine setup, or a slightly louder boost (like 2 dB) <---3 times louder would be 15db, as every 10db sounds twice as loud to the ear. And every 3db is twice the acoustical energy, which can be gained with twice the amplifier power.
Now on another forum, I've been told to just upgrade the front battery (underhood) to a group 34 high quality battery (yellow top, kinetik, ect) and leave it at that....will what you suggested have the same affect (2 batteries, one underhood one in trunk), or would i be better off with 1 "legit" battery under the hood?<--- I would try it on the stock stuff, measure voltage drop at full tilt, if it's not stable, upgrade to a better battery, if it is still not stable (unlikely with the power you are planning for) put the stock battery in the front and have the new battery in the back. I couldn't say what battery to buy, cause I'm running off stock (110amp) alternator, and a pretty average battery (not stock cause the stock one died) on 3000 watts and I get some pretty bad dimmage but it only drops from 14.5 down to 13.5.
^hope this helps BTW, I'd go for 0g if I was you.
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how much louder will the L7's be than the AQ? <---In identical boxes, theoretically 0.6db
is my box sufficient?
u think it will be loud in my car, or should i get another setup elsewhere?<---depends on what you call loud? It's also near impossible to give you a db number.
and my budget for overall upgrade is like $500, so if i buy the AQ for 200 i have ~$300 for an amp.
how can i use that other battery? Run 4 gauge to it from stock battery (keep new one in trunk) than from there run 2 more power wires to sub/speaker amps?<---put buss bars on the second battery(fused of course) and run the front battery to the 2nd battery, then from the second battery to the amp.
^I have answered some up here
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I would definitely go with the AQ's. Round>square.
What amp you get depends on how much money you have
maybe a sundown if you can Big 3, better battery. If there is voltage drop to below battery voltage, then a second battery, or if you want, an alternator. But a second battery would be enough.
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Lots of weather stripping, tapeing the latch could help too, then it won't wear down, which would cause more flex.
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nice! how many watts is that running on? might need some deadening too
sorry, couldn't help myself. Wonder how the pyles will workout?
. It's a waste to have carbon fiber and not show it..gif){kind=small}
maybe a sundown if you can
Bass v. HU question?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
No one has tried this, maybe you could? If it won't overheat the H/U, you could wrap it in deadening. Thats just an idea, just wondering if it would work?