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Posts posted by bassl0va
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I'm from Wellington (work at a shop in fact )
Flick me a txt/ring me on 0274328100 and I'll get you sorted out. Did you get your stuff from SSZ by any chance?
SPL round here is all dbdrag or a slightly changed version of it. Are you entering Jamboree? I should probably get around to building something for that...
YAY someone from Wellywood! lol
Nah i bought it at driving sounds (no hard feelings? :-)
By SSZ do you mean street soundz?
i'd only enter if i do decent numbers (otherwise its embarrassing)
yeah I can come in and check it out this weekend if your gonna be there?
thanks
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Exactly. Just subtract 10,000 RMS from whatever you think. you're making.
that means people with 200 watt sony xplods are actually hitting 9800 watts. but the amp is powered by the subs because its negative
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no the 130-139.9 etc... is bass racing im sure thats what your trying to do. when you go to competition qualify the class you want to bassrace in *as close to lets say 139.9* as possible then when everyone qualifies you go up against your opponent who he wins moves on
Yeah thats what it is called. And thats what it looks like in the pictures on the site. I am confused though as in the rules it has classes that seem to be determined by amp power and ammount of subs? whats with that?
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umm yeah which im sure he was bass racing a 129.9 then it makes sence why he got such a low score.. 1 18 4 12's 6 10's 8 8's are all in the high 30's mid 40's
http://www.dbdrag.co.nz/events.html
first event, IDK if its a dB drag or not i was just guessing by the dB drag logo on it :-P
also in the results section under the street c class they are anywhere between 129 and 147.
What exactly is a dB drag? is that where you have to get as close to the number (130, 140, 150) as possible?
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u dont want a fart box but youre going to a db drag and what to do well?
although we don't know how loud its going to be until you complete it, and let us know then we can tell you hah
Its not really a dB drag its similar though. not many people in this country hit hard, I was looking at previous results and in one competition a guy in c class (1 18 or <4 12s or <6 10 or <8 8s)came third with 129 (which i dont think is too high, am i right?) my goal is 140 or close to that.
I'd rather get the box right first time :-P (using these smiles cause the .gifs dont work!)
So you think its a good size?
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lucky the batt didn't explode!
You learn something everyday on here :-)
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oops it Hz not hZ isn't it? lol
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I'm doin a Blaupunkt vpw460 velocity 18" off 1500RMS (possibly will up that to 2000+ later on (if i dont get new subs))
It will be sub up port back in the trunk of a 1995 4 door Ford Falcon GLI.
I have been playing around with exposport's calculator and i have some ideas...
5 inch port
tuned to 35hZ
3.5 cubes (after sub and port displacement about 2.5 cubes)
I can give more info about my idea if needed.
So the question is: is this the best box I can do (numbers wise) but not have it a a fart box?
And if not whats better?
and how loud would you guess it could go? (want to do well at a dB drag (or similar event) in may)
And yes there are similar threads, but they dont have the same stuff do they?
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definitely ditch those vertical doors.
or if you can get $1500 some other way put it on the system.
p.s. if you do get the doors make sure they are fitted properly, most of them are fitted shockingly badly.
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well over here in New Zealand we are under a tsunami warning.
And we have had some weird as tides, in a town called Gisbourne the water dropped 3 feet in 10 minutes and then rose again in another 10?!?
strange...
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Ewwww...
I kinda thought that some pairs were too manly for either to be a girl.
WTF is wrong with these men?!?
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lol... cat trick!
naw thats cruel.
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pioneer d-series components
run 2 sets in the front (fglass the doors, kickpod, pillars, whatever you have to do)
forget about the back deck, take em out and let the bass in, you'll never hear em anyway
2 sets of comps and 600wrms kept up with 5kw and 3 18's in my car, and sounds amazing with 1 18 and 1500wrms (what i have now, and what you're doing)
check my buildlog if you like, idk if i added my most recent setup but its a dc xl18, like 6ish cubes ported thru the rear deck at 35hz with 1500rms on it. d-series will do you right and not break the bank, just make sure to cross them over at like 90ish hz if you wanna run 100watts to em.
Thanks for that, this is the most helpful post i have encountered in this thread
i might try out some glassing, it doesn't seem too hard.
I might just leave the stock speakers in there (the back deck) and leave them disconnected. just for the non-suspicious look. (occasionally bad neighborhood.)
O.K. I'll check it out and take some tips from it.
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If you can't find anything in this "crappy country", why not go live in another country so you can find something "Really Great" and get it ripped off before you even put it in your ride........
well I can get it but I dont want to spend twice the price of the speaker on shipping...
I was exaggerating a bit there, cause it is possible but not worth it on this car, i'll get some real good stuff on the next one, this one is near the junkyard...
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Definitely going for a challenge, I want it to be as loud as I can make it so I'll take it easy, build the box, do some wiring, try the sub out and see how loud it is, then decide. Time to research...
Thanks for the help
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I think i found what i like, might look around for a bit longer though first to find a deal like you say.
I dont want the mids and highs to sound muffled cause thats budget. i'll have a little look round the build logs here to see what others have. would i need extra speakers in the doors? Or are just the stock locations ok?
thanks
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very random.
someone had some spare time...
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money man by gorilla zoe has a loud but unclipped bassline.
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bump.
nothing? well thanks for all the help guys
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Bump.
Please? anything is appreciated.
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Im probably gonna get nagged at for starting a new topic instead of searching, but i'll have you know i did have a look.
so anyways,
i've got a 18" sub for my first car system (all previous subs and stuff was in the house, so i know my stuff ) its the one in my avatar. gonna run it off 1500watts. now the stock door/back shelf speakers sound nice but they are ancient and aren't loud. So i was wondering roughly how much mids and highs i would need? i'll most likely run them off a 100x4 amp + i can use the stock amp for tweets if necessary. BTW nothing expensive for mids and highs, just Pioneer, anything else is hard to get hold of in this crappy country.
And also what order do i get stuff in? i've got the sub. getting sub amp in 19 days for my B-day. so do i start with electrical, door panels or build the subs box first?
thanks
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If you have the voltage gauge in/on the dash then wont you need 10ft of wire coming from the amp? so therefore you might as well wire it to the front battery.
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well first of all an amp requires 12 volt power and ur avergae alternator puts out anywhere from 13 to 14.7 volts so in my mind it seems he would be over powering the am causing it to blow all the time
If you draw it up you'll see that there's no difference. As long as he has done the big 3 there wont be a measurable difference.
Think of it this way, you measure your voltage from your battery, and when the engine is going the alt is charging the battery with 13.8v (or more) and the volt meter says 13.8v (or whatever the alt is charging the battery with.) So he might as well do whatever is easiest.
My first post
Box design? and dee beez?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Oh SLAP never heard of it. I'll have to check it out in the yellow pages.
Do you know how much they sell them for there? cause this one $300.
BTW. turps ain't good for you lol, it makes you . hehe