bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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Well I'd hate to put out some money for 2 15" PR and they be too big.
An AA SMD 18" does sound like it would make one hell of a home theater setup, but I definitely dont have that kind of money.
And if I were to try it, I'd need help with the box. Never made a ported box, just sealed. I dont necessarily want loud, I want depth. I'd rather cause an earthquake before I cause hearing loss. And I've heard that fire down port forward can do that.
You can always cut the holes in the box bigger? Works every time! haha
Yeah, I was just using it as an example. If you were making a home theater box for a SMD 18", you'd tune to ~15hz, maybe 12hz for some real lows. And people on here say 28hz is a low tuning,
Well I have a total of three subs I'd like to try this with, one 10 (that is in need of severe repair) for a home theater and 2 12s that I wanna use in my car. Problem is that I only have about 13" for top to bottom clearance.
Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit.
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It shouldn't hurt it, both the channels are different amp circuits. You Never ever ever ever mix and match subs. This has been said many a time before, but I won't complain about having to say it again. Sell all three subs and get a really nice sub that has a ohm load that you can bridge the amp with. Or use only the 2 MTX's.
If you use just the two MTX's, wire them up to 8 ohms (in series, positive on MTX one to amp, negative on MTX one to positive on MTX two, negative on MTX two to amp) and bridge the amp, each sub will be happy with the power it is getting (slightly less than rated, but you won't notice a difference) and you will be all set.
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Sure it isn't a 15" PR? It probably is, hole cutout sizes are always weird.
Um, of course it will work. How good it works though? Try it and tell us! I'd be interested to know. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work to good, apart from having a nice flat, solid thing to load off.
BTW, down firing can be used for any speaker, you could do it with an AA SMD 18" if you wanted. It sure as heck won't be practical though, you'd have to have it a good 8"s off the ground for it to breathe and bolt it to the floor so it doesn't go walkabout. It would make one heck of a home theater sub though.
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I think that the higher model stuff is still good because it is still the same. It's just the new stuff with the X on the end that is bad. As far as I know the MX, XXX and MT are still fine, because they haven't changed the design though they are exactly the same as they were years ago.
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Pics of the said problem?
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Sorry man, i thought i replied. I made a build section to show my progress. thanks bassl0va so much man, you have helped me out a lot. I will make sure i message you if a question arises
Linky link to the build because I'm lazy?
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yeah i was jus thinkin.. whadda bout when i do my kicks?, i know component sets are midbass and a tweeter, so playin the mid in an infinate works,? or would ideal be to somehow seal er off..... ?... lookin like imma be without bass for awhile, so lookin to get the best sound i can for now without subs.
Yes, having the mid in ib will be fine, the only difference is the mid in a 3 way set doesn't play as low as the 2 way set mid. It also plays a bit higher probably. Just ib everything.
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I wouldn't seal it, but you could make/buy a half cup to protect it from water.
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What are those red things in that bag? Are they coils? If they are, then you can make a 12db per octave crossover, not just a 6db per octave one.
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Since I'm going to start on a wall in a sedan pretty soon. I could pm you anything I learn while working on it. I'm doing 2 18"s too, so it should be pretty helpful. Or if I'm not too lazy to post a build log that isn't posted weeks after the system is built, you can look at that and see how it goes.
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Not asking anything specific here, but what sub topic of car audio is it? Like, subs tech, amp tech, electrical? You don't have to answer if you don't want to.
Good luck with it, if you have thought up something which is truly new, then good on you. There isn't much which is invented by independent people now, especially in the electronics world. Gah, why did I need to find this thread, now I'll wonder what it is. I'd love to know what it is, but I probably wouldn't be any help in developing it. Haha
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Doesn't look close to the 9:1 ratio.....I see lots of port noise and restriction. How about porting UP through the rear deck?
It's actually 1/8, but whatever.
That port will fail miserably. I wouldn't even bother trying it no matter how much spare money you could get. The straighter the port the better.
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Lol, double illegal thread fail. You gonna get teh ban hamma. haha
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ok i just checked it with the dmm and no voltage drop lol. but..... its not shutting off anymore. it did it twice (first 2 ejects it ever did) and then since ive been taking then in and out and its not shutting off anymore, so that seems fine. but ive had it on and playing with all 4 speakers hooked up for like4 hours without any issues other then when i turn it way up it will cut off, but like i said im not worried about that. thanks again. now all i have to do is wait for it to get warm out again and i can start my boxes. thanks for all the help.
Oh, I said measure the current, not the voltage, as the voltage should be fine unless you are drawing way too much current. So in this case it is the current which is good to know. But yeah, it's good that it has stopped doing that.
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also when i eject the cd the radio shuts off lol. im thinking the 7a is not enough to run the little motor and the radio and whatever else its doing. im not sure though. but it stays on when i put a cd in and its doing the same thing....
Lol, that is weird. If the CD goes in fine but turns the head unit off when it comes out, it may be faulty. As you say, it is doing the same thing. Maybe if you chuck the DMM on it and see how many amps it is pulling when you eject the CD while having the radio turned up to just before distortion.
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ok thanks. a lot again. im going to pick up the first one, the 10a, so if i ever need to use it i can pull it down and use it as a 12v source for testing stuff. thanks again man. and i know it might sound crazy but what if i put a small cap also, would that help with the possibility of a future amp? i figure if its charged then the power will be pulled from that, i couldnt play it very loud for a long time or anything but just to add that little xtra. its just i also have an old 10 in sony xplode sub that id like to get out of my tool box lol
Cool, you're welcome too.
As you may have heard on here, caps don't do much in the way of storing power when you need as much as we use here. Caps only smooth the power if you have pretty much no, or very little, voltage drop. 10A is enough only for a head unit.
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Who told you there was a difference? Batteries are batteries, we just use certain types on here that are more suited to our power needs.
Theres a lot of difference..
such as a regular wet wet lead acid battery will leak if used on its side vs an AGM battery like XS Power, BatCap, or Kinetik which can all be installed anyway the room is available.
A regular wet cell lead acid battery should not be used in a trunk of a car or interior of the vehicle ANYWHERE because they discharge Toxic Deadly gasses.
A regular wet cell lead acid battery will bever have a high aH rating, or Discharge rating, nor could it ever have a instant 3000+ Short Circuit amp rating.
Thought those 3 things are a PRETTY BIG DIFFERENCE for a battery that some claim to be the SAME.
Deep cycle SLA's weren't exactly invented only for audio though. Personally I'd consider them standard batteries since if you go and replace the stock battery in your car they will give you a sealed battery, and if you asked they would give you a deep cycle one. It's not like they are made specifically for audio, so therefore they aren't really audio batteries. Also, I never said that there weren't physical differences.
Also, you are allowed wet, non-sealed batts in the trunk. But they have to be in a sealed, fireproof and actively vented to the outside. This is what you have to do for said batteries in the trunk of a homemade electric car and to have it pass as road legal. Haha.
I do agree I kinda screwed up the last post, I shouldn't have put the word power in that sentecne.
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Who told you there was a difference? Batteries are batteries, we just use certain types on here that are more suited to our power needs.
BTW, you might want to fix the title of this thread, not only is it kinda annoying being in caps with spaces, but I don't think that batteriers exist.
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Haha, to power the speakers too of course. You just can't use an external amp, that's what I meant. You could go with the 20A one if you want, but that would still only be good for a head unit. So I guess just go with either the 10A or the 20A depending on how much you want to spend. The more current available the better to a certain extent.
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ok finally got time to look at some psu. i found this regular power supply that has 10a and is like 10 bucks more. would this one work?
http://www.frys.com/product/1975145?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
Yep, that should be fine for a head unit only.
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ok. thanks a lot. this helped me a lot. i will try to look into some power supplies tomorrow in between work and ill post them on here and if you or anyone could let me know if they would work for my needs that would be awesome. thanks again
Cool, your welcome
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oh ok so i would be using all of the rails to get the full potential or just the 12v?
Not unless you are powering a PC with it
. I think that they work at their best when all the rails have a load on them, but if you have a PSU with enough headroom, it really shouldn't matter. So just use the 12v -
hal.dll is the dll support file found in many types of Windows operating systems. The hal.dll file plays an important role for the programs which require hal.dll in order to function properly.
WTF?Piss off if you will just be spamming.
ok i know Kranny already said to just use all the yellow wires, but what are the different "rails" for. im not familure with how the power supply works exactly. i just plug it in lol.
5v is for USB and various circuits with 5v ICs. Including circuits in CD drives and HDDs.
3.3v is for the CPU (I think?) and various other low voltage circuits like that.
-12v, heck knows, probably for audio circuits, like a amp will have identical positive and negative rails.
-5v, same reason as the -12v I guess.
12v is for the pretty much everything that needs it, graphics cards, CD drives, HDDs, various 12v circuits, fans.
^don't take any of my stuff as fact. Haha
May I suggest these links:
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What is with you people and using PSUs with 3.3v, 5v and -12v rails? You only need one with 12v rails, not the extra ones that would be used in a computer. Besides, I think that the PSUs work at their best when the either the 3.3v or 5v rails have a load on then, I can't remember which one it is.
A PSU with only 12v outputs may cost more, but it will work better, and won't be as much of a pain to wire up.
uhh...just use the freaking yellow wires. +12v. nuff said.
If the available output is more when the other rail is under load, then it kinda does matter.
Also, most of the time a person will buy a 200watt PSU for their 200watt amp. Most of the time the 200watts that the PSU can do is the total for all the rails. If you haven't noticed, the 3.3v and 5v rails can supply just as much current as the 12v rails, making the PSU even less appropriate for the said amp.
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do watts drop when
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This guy is random as, haha. And he talks sooo damn slow. I could get that video out in half the time. lol.