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bassl0va

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Posts posted by bassl0va

  4. Walling the Accord

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    So bottoming out is too big of a box... So how do i know how big or small to make it? I mean really we were going to make it big and just tune it with a detachable port. But now that you said that, that is pretty scary... Suggestions?

    If you don't mind me asking, how much did you get your alt for? Thanks for this information man! I know i don't need to upgrade right away but soon for sure. I had NO idea DC was like that. That's good to know though, honestly. Yeah i would eventually plan to drop it but i want to put bags in it. But with all of these car audio crap (stuff) i have to buy. I have no money yet haha. But thank you, i honestly will check those out man! Thank you so much!

    Are you being sarcastic about the alt? I don't really understand haha. Yeah man, I don't know enough, but hopefully i can get there soon. It's mostly the resources that i lack. aka money $$$

    Bottoming out is a combination of things, it could be playing content that is too low below box tuning without having a sufficient subsonic filter. It could be too much power in a certain box, or it could be rated power in a box that is far too big. Don't worry, we'll make sure it won't happen to you.

    Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated!

    First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure.

    Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be!

    Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box!

    Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!

    So you want the baffle to be removable? That is possible, you just want to make sure that you have a amazing seal, and that the baffle bolts on and not just uses wood screws. My wall is going to have a removable baffle too probably. If you do a shitty job of it, you'll lose numbers, do it right though and there should be no difference.

    I'd use t-nuts and nice beefy bolts to hold the subs in, of you could use those roofing screws that Steve uses (I think) To make the subs flush mount you make another panel that goes over the main baffle with a cutout that is bigger than the sub. Such as this:

    100_4819.jpg

    100_4835.jpg

    This is a double layer box (and double layer baffle) with the extra panel on top, no bracing either, and it works great, the box doesn't flex.

    I have forgotten what size subs they are, so correct me if I'm wrong.

    2 18"s (depending on how much power you will give them) will want between 12-18 cubes (although more has been used, such as 21 cubes, the guy wanted lots of box rise though so that's one reason why it was built big). If you are feeding each one rated (is that like 1250? I'm guessing it is less than the XL but more than the lvl 4) then 16 cubes may be ok, if you are going to give them like 2K each, maybe go for 14 cubes.

    A good idea for this is to build a big frame (2x4"s probably) then line that with MDF. That may be 25 cubes, now what you can do is put more boards of MDF in to make it the correct volume for the subs. Doing this allows you to upgrade and add another (or different/more) woofers in and you won't have a huge pain taking stuff out, especially with a removable baffle.

  6. Walling the Accord

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    I am assuming you mean the level 5 coil option offered through DC? Or do you mean you had them reconed completely with a level 5 recone? As far as I know, the level 5 coil option does NOT have all of the same softparts as a level 5, just the coil. It might be a different spider too, but I am not sure. I have a level 4 with level 5 coil, and it gets moving damn good on 1500 RMS, I have heard of people putting 2k to them, but I wouldnt go any higher than that.

    Mate, spiders are softparts

    Yeah dude! I have been thinking about my suspension too! I have no idea how it's going to handle haha. Any ideas/brands of suspension i should upgrade to? I have NO idea about that kind of stuff. I'm sure i can ask around but why not start with someone who knows why i need the upgrade and knows what they are talking about haha! What kind of alt do you recommend getting for what the gist of what we are talking about for amps. I mean, I have a SE not sure if it's F class honestly. But what do you think? I thinking about my alt having to power 4 batteries in the long run. I want to use DC power but I'm not sure if you have some better ideas?

    Hdorre! All good man! Like i said you were totally right. I was just tired and your statement made me upset. But it's all good. I need to humble myself anyways. I honestly don't know much about it in reality. More then the average 16 year old with 2 12 inch subs but not more then you guys know. Thanks for the advice though! Really! And with what you just said, what is "bottoming out and what exactly do you mean when you said "building a correct box to compensate for more power" Like make it bigger? That raises questions that i want to know the answer to! I would be willing to look for it but I'm not sure if they have something about it...

    Yeah man, through DC for sure. I have a upgraded spider also. So your sub is a 4dvc? Any recommendations for amps?

    Bottoming out is when the coil hits the back plate, it screws up subs if it happens enough. And you use a smaller box to handle more power, this means that the subs are more restricted so there is less chance at bottoming out.

  9. cerwin vegas vmax

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    When you say got, I hope you didn't mean payed for, because if you did they ripped you off :nea: . Blown coil or shifted pole piece, probably the first one though, since it has happened to both. You could get them reconed, contact PSI and see what they can do for you.

    No I did not buy them they were given to me, I'm gonna check out psi see if they are even worth fixing thanks bassl0va

    If you decide not to fix them up I'll have them. Haha.

    Your welcome

  10. speaker damage or ok?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    well i have a dodge ram 2500 quad cab so it has the half back doors and rarely someone will sit back there. i was actually thinking that if i wanted to put a lot more money into it i would get the same 6x9s and fit them in the rear but i think it sounds pretty good how it is. i am going to make a build log of it even though its already done but its done real nice so you cant even tell any of its even there.

    Only reason I reckon you should put 6.5" components up the front is because they will sound better, 6x9"s aren't really known for sound quality.

    Oh, you've already done it? Damn, well, I still reckon it would be worth it if you have some spare monies.

    stick a little nail polish over it, it will be fine. Over the hole not the whole thing.

    Yeah, we don't want it looking too purdy.

  11. Walling the Accord

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by bassl0va

    We wouldn't need aftermarket alts if that was the case. I have a bunch of car audio book that say other wise. Most aftermarket alts put out more amperage at idle than a stock does at the highest possible RPM.

    So all those people with multiple alts and huge systems only rev the car up to 2000RPM for fun?

    I'm sure that a 300A alt would easily put out more at idle speed than a stock 60A would if it was being taken to the red line. But H/O alts would put out the most a higher RPM.

    Now time for the maxi-post :trippy:

    Hey man, I'm really trying to humble myself with asking such a "noobish" question. I know that people just post topics up and ask stupid questions like this. But i have looked and been looking through logs for a while now. It's just hard when I'm honestly still new at this. I know a lot of people out there (such as yourselves) are a lot more knowledgeable about all of this and i am just trying to get some help with all of it. That being said, I will ask questions in which i don't know that answer. Please don't assume I'm just another guy who just posted up a topic without knowing a thing, and that didn't put in effort to look for himself. I really am not trying to attack anyone, it's just so frustrating that people think i would do something like that. I am sorry that i still am a lot newer then you guys at car audio. But that's why i am asking all of these questions.

    The reason i threw in the fact that i have talked to a engineer is because he too does a lot of similar stuff as us. As in, he understand electrical, DB's, and such, just as well as most of us on this forum. So to hear different ideas from him and to see his spin on things blows my minds sometimes and makes me want to ask questions (which i am doing right now). So my question with this is, why does he say (and it makes sense) that i could upgrade my alt but i don't need to. That the best thing to do would be to upgrade batteries. He also stated that the bigger alternator would be a good upgrade, he says it depends if i want to run of my alternator or my batteries. If i want to run off my batteries then i just need to get more batteries to hold a charge. That way my stock alt can still charge my batteries and there is really no need to upgrade my alt. I am just looking for an answer because all i hear is "upgrade to a bigger alt" without a real reason why. And seeing as h is logic makes a lot of sense... I would like someone to PLEASE back up the reason for upgrading to a bigger alternator and not doing what the engineer said.

    What we were thinking for the box is making the port tunable. Kinda what Steve did on his box in the Hoe. How you can screw on different sized ports and tune it differently. We were thinking around 28-32. So probably around 30 or 29. With the cubic feet, i don't have the notes on me, but i can give you an answer probably later tonight on that. I don't remember off the top of my head honestly.

    Another question that i was thinking was, is 2 HC1800 batteries okay for upgraded system ideas. I know that one is fine for my current, but when i upgrade my amp, will 2 be enough or will i need to upgrade to 4? I feel stupid that i didn't even ask this before but hey, better now then never i suppose.

    Also, seeing as we are still talking about alts above, i was thinking about DC power. Not sure what size alt either. How would i go about finding out how much power i need exactly with a alternator. I don't see the need in overkill on amps if i am not even going to use all of them, if that makes sense. I don't want to get a (lets say) 300 amp alt and then only need 200. Just a waste of money to me, feel free to correct me!

    I am pretty sure that my subs are 2ohms. I am not quite sure but that is my honest best bet on that. Sorry that i didn't include this before.

    So with the main topic still kinda being amps. I am getting a lot of different ideas but i haven't heard much about any of these. Like Atomic or American Bass. I will do so research on them but are there any problems, pro's and con's to these? I honestly don't know anything about these amps!

    Thanks guys for your feed back, i honestly am taking it all in. There so many more options that i haven't really even looked at till now. Don't think that I'm not grateful for all of your answers. This is really helping me a lot and I'm glad you guys took the time to reply and help me out with all of my various questions!

    Mate, the whole point of this website is for people to learn (well, and show off 8) ) if people who knew absolutely nothing didn't make thread with severely stupid questions, they wouldn't learn anything. Every time I see the OP apologize for their question I facepalm, haha, normally we are being rude or arguing with each other instead of answering the OP's question. To avoid being flamed, always have a look in the search section (if you can find anything in there, it's almost as bad as google sometimes. Yes, I don't like google sometimes) and if you didn't find anything in there, say that you didn't. Some people get annoyed when they have to answer the same question 5 times in a week.

    Sometimes we sound rude, we don't mean to (most of the time :peepwall: ) we just don't think you are ready for doing a certain thing. Hdorre didn't mean to call you dumb (I hope) he was just saying that putting twice the rated power mightn't be a good idea until you have learnt a bit more.

    But yeah, keep asking if you need to, you gotta start somewhere.

    Now that you explain what he said better, it makes more sense, and I would agree with him. It's always a good idea to have the engine running though, the more current you have on supply the less likely voltage drop is. But yeah, as dwright said that earlier, more batteries first. People on here have an obsession for alts, say you run an Atomic 3K, you will be fine with just more batteries, unless you want to sit there for more than like 30 minutes with it on full. Then an alt would be a good idea to keep everything good. I reckon you'll be fine for batteries just now, you can always get an alt later on.

    You should get some insane hairtricks going with a tune like that :good: .

    What were you going to run again? 2 18" lvl 4's w/ lvl 5 soft parts?

    All I can say about batteries is that 2 of These held up great with a Stetsom 10k, and on another occasion with an Atomic 3K at half an ohm.

    A 3K amp on a burp will probably draw 350A or more, on music, much less. You'd be fine with a 200A one, but if you are sure you will upgrade to lots more power, you might as well invest in a bigger one.

    Don't worry about an alt just yet though.

    Pretty sure isn't good enough :nea: , it is a very important thing to know when planning a system. Especially when choosing amps.

    Not knowing is all the fun! I don't know about American Bass, but Atomic is as good as Sundown. And everyone seems to go for Sundown, so lets get some more Atomic power going!

    Or you could go used and get their 3K.

    You're welcome :blush:

  16. speaker damage or ok?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    on a 4 channel can you tune each speaker? cuz obviously i have 2 different size speakers. 6/9s in the front and 4 1/4 in the rear. and they have different wattage ratings... ive just never done an interior amp before. thanks again

    You can tune then different pairs, so channels 1 & 2 share a gain knob and 3 & 4 share one.

    TBH, I think I'd rather have them the other way around, or change the 6x9"s for a 6.5" component set and put the 6x9"s in the rear.

    And although it's already been answered, they will be fine. The surrounds on my 6.5" components have been kinda crushed a bit by my door cards. Like, made narrower from where the door card pushed on the foamy bit that gets glued over the edge of the surround. Damn it is hard to explain, but yeah, just my 2 cents.

  17. Walling the Accord

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Well i know Rockford makes some powerful amps but i have asked this questions a lot and i get really dumb answers. I'm not trying to be ignorant. Your right, some BRAND named amps can do the job. I never said i really knew what i was taking about anyways lol.

    I was talking to a engineer that works with Jets (Yes, the ones that fly) and he pretty much said I don't need to have a bigger alternator, I more or less need more batteries. Which makes sense, because the alt will give me constant power but not as much as a battery can discharge. Also the stock can juice up all the batteries, just not be able to charge them very fast. If you guys have a different idea about it and I'm missing something, feel free to correct me. But it made sense to me.

    I am looking at the crescendo 3kwp and the sundowns but i know that crescendo kinda is done with amps till the end of this month?

    Sorry Hdorre, i haven't built the box yet, i am making sure i am making my wall to fit perfectly the 18's coming in. I also am not so sure about the woofers. That part is my fault for sure. But honestly, I'm not new at this, i don't see why there is a reason why i can't run 2kwrms. No offense, so please don't take it that way. It just confuses me why you think I'm so stupid.

    Also, would my 1800 kenwood amp work for now and would it blow my woofers? Well more or less, under power them causing them to break.

    Not to be offensive towards the jet dude, I'm sure he knows a whole bunch of stuff about jets, but what the heck do jets have to do with car audio? haha

    Have a look at Atomic too, they are the same internally as the sundown and crescendo amps and it would be a change since everybody seems to go for sundown and crescendo on here. haha

    What were you thinking of doing for the box? How many cubes and tuning freq?

    He was saying he doesn't think you should run 2KW per sub. I don't know if he was suggesting that you are stupid, but the general rule is that you shouldn't run too much more than rated RMS unless you have a more experience.

    That kenwood won't even be doing 1800 RMS, it probably only does 800 RMS or something. So if it is set so that it isn't clipping it will be fine for the time being.

    underpowering wont kill your woofers.

    clipping them will.

    alts charge batteries, batteries discharge current. I'd buy more batteries before i would a bigger alt. THATS JUST ME THOUGH.

    Level4 with Level5 coils is just a Level 4 motor, with a Level 5 coil ( which are different ) and i believe a different spider pack as well. Not 100% on that one.

    AQ amps are best cost to performance available right now IMO.

    x2

    You need a bigger alt because most stock alts don't produce much juice until they get high in RPM. Your honda I believe has a 320A alt at DC Power. That would handle everything and more.

    I'm pretty sure you got that the wrong way around, H/O alts produce the most power at higher RPMs, stock ones would most likely be designed to produce their power at normal speeds and idle. You can have H/O alts made to do more at lower RPMs though.

  18. What are some first cars?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    In order: Either one. Port through hole would be preferred. If I can't get a car where the armrest folds down, I will port the box normally and fold the seat down.

    As for headlights: HID led headlights?

    And yes. 1kw for mids and highs. Including about 350w midbass

    Will this be a bandpass then? Because that would probably be the best idea if they will be shut in the trunk by themselves.

    HID is a different technology, it stands for high Intensity Discharge, as for how it works I don't know. An LED is a Light Emitting Diode, far simpler and it uses less current to run, I don't think there are any LEDs that are bright enough to be used as headlights (particularly high-beams). LEDs could be used for internal lights and pretty much every other light apart from the main headlights.

    Is this 350 watts of dedicated midbass? Such as from 70-250hz?

  24. Prefab boxes and RMS rating?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by bassl0va

    Oh man...

    I put some 2-way's in the dash (4x6) and they made a hell of a difference. Dad has same size in his truck, and his sounds like crap compared to mine.

    If you get 2-ways they do sound a lot better if you are replacing the stock mids.

    They sound 10 times better if you put them on an amp though.

    Here is my rating:

    Stock: 3

    2-ways to replace the mids: 6

    Amp on the 2-ways: 9

    Not sure about tweeters by themselves though.

    You shouldn't need that level until the bass is above 1,000w rms?

    Also yes on the 700w amp on a 500w sub

    make sure the ohms match

    Turn the gain all teh way down, turn the volume to max, then slowly adjust the gain on the sub. As soon as it starts to distort, turn it back down a little and maybe even go a little extra for safety

    What the hell are you on about?

    Quite a lot of your advice is quite dodgy.

    I agree that upgraded speakers will sound better than stock 99% of the time, and having those speakers on a external amp will sound even better, but what do you mean by 'tweeters by themselves'? Like, on their own amp, or just tweeters and no mids?

    If it is the first one, it will work well if you know what you are doing. If it is the second one, it will sound like shit.

    You can't just say "yes, chuck that 500 watt sub on a 700 watt amp" it depends on many things, the sub, the quality of the signal, the box, etc. etc.

    You need to know what sub he wants to run first, but yes, having a more powerful amp than the speaker/sub needs will make clipping less likely as there is more headroom.

    And hell no, that is not how you set gains :ban2: .

    I don't mean to be a dick, but some of this advice isn't the best.

    EDIT: Also, what level? And why 1000 watts? Power doesn't determine loudness by itself.

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