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bassl0va

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Posts posted by bassl0va

  1. lol thanks guys!

    I also have on more question.

    I went into a car audio shop today to look at some new front speakers. 4 inchers to be specific. I'm looking for something that will play well not amped. I was surprised and found that they sell hertz speakers. The have exc100 speakers for 120. Is this a good deal and are these good sounding speakers un-amped?

    Are you not going to amp them because you are on a budget?

    I'd try as hard as possible to get an amp because a head unit will only put out 20 watts or so. Also, would you be able to get 6.5" components instead of 4"s? Because I wouldn't really use speakers that small without having something for lower mid/midbass as well otherwise you might be pushing them too hard.

    Also, I don't think HU powered and sound good can be in the same sentence?

  2. Its amazing how nobody knows how to use the search feature or google for that matter.

    contrary to your belief i did, and nothing came up...if youre not going to help keep your mouth shut.

    why does every new member have an attitude and think its ok to tell people to keep their mouths shut in a public forum? what you dont understand yet is that some questions are so insanely common that they are pretty annoying. in fact, its astonishing that they keep coming up over and over, to the point where it makes you think anyone still asking must be lazy or stupid because we have answered this so many times already.

    so you dont like being called out, big deal. its call humility, learn it and chill.

    i am " chilled " and if you dont like my attitude or my thread then dont open any of them and dont put your 2 cents in...

    Come on guys, lets not have another thread turn sour :(

  3. is that port big enough? id think like 2-3 for that size box

    Good luck trying to fit 3 of them in there and still tune down to 24hz. It is harder than you think.

    I think i spotted the small difference from the original design to the box u built... :peepwall:

    Hahahahah small? Unless they are changing there name to Otimic hahahaha

    Yeah, I died a bit inside when you didn't do the awesome lettering.

    REBUILD

    Atomic FTW!

  4. check all your terminals, if you crimped them, solder them, i crimped mine, and that might have been the problem to my voltage bugging out like it was, also check your big 3 or big 6, i did that wrong when i did it for the first time, and it gave me some wacky voltage after awile, make sure your terminals are tight and on batterys, make sure your connects on your fuses are good, and make sure your grounds on there good, all of these have been my voltage problems so far lol, simple yet costly mistakes

    There is nothing wrong with crimping. Unless you try and do it with a set of pliers or something.

    maybe settings on the amp is going into protect because the amp isn't set correctly.

    Good point. Maybe it is clipping severely...

  5. sealed is more for sq. As ported is more of a spl. Sealed you can achieve tighter bass. As for ported you will noticed a gain in sound to where to tune the box to, mostly ment for lower bass, and move more air.

    :No::nea:

    Ported enclosures can sound nice too, it just takes more designing and testing to get it right. T-Lines are probably one of the best for having a bit of both. But they are harder to fit in a car because of their large size...

  6. Cool! I'll show him those videos tomorrow. How much did those Level 3s run you? I'm looking to getting maybe 1 15 or 2 12s in my 01 Impala, with that audiopipe.

    You will have to email or pm one of the people from DC audio as they don't like people sharing the price of their equipment.

    May I suggest asking Rusty: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/12-wca-rusty/

  7. But if you inverted it in a Sealed box it wouldn't over heat. But i doubt it will sound to good sense it is designed for a ported box.

    It could. These subs don't have pole vents, so if it can't move enough to circulate air, it could get hot.

    Do you happen to know what makes a sub designed for a ported box vs a sealed one? Or is it just that the manufacturers are the only ones who know, and what they say goes?

    I'm not trying to contradict anyone, I would just like to know why, like in my last post.

    You have to look at the T&S specs and know what there needs to be. There is sometimes a EBP number, which helps to give you an idea of what box a sub is better in.

    but yeah, it probably easiest to just do what the people that made suggested. After all, they did make it.

  8. running wires is no prob for me at all, i could just keep the switch in the back tho to save time. lol sorry if this sounds really nooby but what is a resistor lol.. i was thinking of using 2 or 3 leds and just connect to my back battery just to light my box up like this

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor

    resistors and all about them. They are the most common electronic part, there is at least one in everything. Because of this, they are incredibly cheap, but you will probaby have to buy 10 of them since selling them separately is impractical.

    3 of the ones I linked you to should be fine. You might want to get 5 or so since you might want more light.

  9. well what if i dont want them to pulse with the beat and jsut wire them into my batter pos and neg and put a switch inbetween the pos to turn it on and off.. i just want to light up my box red for the wow factor at night lol would i still need a relay and stuff/ can someone link me to some good cheap little led's i can use? dont want a led bar, would prefer just little lights i can mount in box.

    Yeah, if you don't mind if they don't pulse, just hook them up to the battery and have a nice switch mounted in the dash somewhere. Anyway, IMHO I think that ones that pulse to the music are kinda ricerish looking, like something you'd see in a cheap prefab system where they make up for the crappyness by adding as much bling as possible. But that's just my opinion, haha.

    http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=699&osCsid=b4f701b3bb51694dbb08462ce2c607a7

    I bought like $140 worth of these (not all red, a bunch of each colour) back when they were like $3.40 or something. They are damn bright so you wouldn't need many, I use 6 of them for a brake light in a stock spoiler. I can get some pics of them if you want?

    EDIT: If you wire them to your back battery, you will still need a switch (and of course a resistor), so if you want to switch it from the dash you will need some back and forth wiring. But it's really what is easiest for you, it's not like you need to run 0g for them, haha.

    EDIT: EDIT: lol wait, I count 51 of them just here, not counting a few missing ones and the 6 in the car. Must have been more than $140 :ehh: . I have too many LEDs.

  10. Dont quote me on this but i have seen it done and its on youtube. But i havent tried it yet. I have a module that controls my LED's and senses the bass its ok not too great but still cool. But i think you can hook up your 12 vold LED strip to your small channel amplifier if you have one. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative on the channels so when the frequency hits the LED's will light up. Like i said i havent tried it yet but i seen it on a small amp i think 400 rms by 4 channels so mayble like 100 rms to each channel. Cant be to positive till i try but i havent had time to take my car apart yet

    It doesn't matter which way you put the strip on, since the amp puts out AC anyway. Also, it most likely won't put out 12v. The LED strip will be a weird ohmage too, not a nice low number for your amp. So it could end up going poof when the bass hits.

    What you want to do is make a nice circuit with PWM that varies the brightness depending on the signal level. Well, that's probably the best way to do it.

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