bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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will doing them all ported make it ridiculous on bass??? not looking to over power the mids and highs i do like to listen to the lyrics too. I like listening to all music and the occassional kiddies songs when they ride with me.
^
That did not come out right.
lol, jk jk.
What do you consider ridiculous bass? I don't think you will overpower your mid/highs with one 12", especially since you are upgrading them. You can always turn the bass down if it is too much, so having a box that makes the most of it is good.
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I have 3 more 500/1 JL Audio amps looking to get 3 more Type R 1242 subs and a friend said he had a 300/4 amp but think a channel was bad that he would give me.... I am wanting to hook it all up..... the plexiglass would only be for a piece of the enclosure. just enough to show off the inside some. a friend of my said he would spray the inside with that rhino stuff for free. I have contacted a few places for a 220amp alternator for price comparison.... plan to upgrade that to. i love bass but i love to hear the music too!!! would sealed be best? I have the 1 12 right now in a 33hz tune ported enclosure.
Even more reason to run thicker wire.
It is still expensive, but shouldn't be too bad if it is only for one side.
And, yeah, go ported, you'll get the best from your subs.
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Check this out. I have been out of the loop with systems for a bit now.... Sold off my ricer after getting tired of every honda reving thier engine wanting to race and bored and starting to get back into the stereos. I am trying to understand some of this and just amazed with what has evoled over about 8 years or more! I am looking for great sound and not just the DB aspect of it anymore. Also trying to learn about what will and won't be apropreate. my questions are due to my disability and richness of pocket lint!
1: sound dampening material. what is a good way to go for the price? I have looked into this and seems to be out of reach for what I am looking to spend.
2: type of box. Since last i seen boxes they have changed as well.... not that much but have seen different materials used. I would like to use some plexiglass myself and wondering what thinkness is needed.
3: how to run multi amps 1 bass knob.
Now I am far from stupid of this material but not so smart either. I am learning all this on a wing and looking at Meade's work and amazed with all this!!! What I am working with in the car for your idea so I don't leave you in the cold is:
Alpine iDa-X200
Alpine Type R SPR-17s in front doors
Alpine Type R SPR-17c in rear deck
Alpine Type R 1242 Sub
JL Audio 500/1 slash series
JL Audio 300/4 Slash Series
Monster Cable 402 XLN Xtreme for Sub
Monster Cable 404 XLN Xtreme for 4 channel
4 gauge power wire(donated from friend) love that
same for ground.
Thank you for your help and all info....
There isn't really a cheap way to do deadening if you want to do it right.
Plexi is damn expensive, you'd probably want to have 1" thick plexi if that's what you are doing though.
Depends on the amp, if you have a master/slave setup you can easily, if not you need to get something that goes inline with the RCAs or a 360.2 or some kind of processor.
I'd go for thicker wire then use a distribution block to split it into the biggest size that will fit your amp.
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oohh so its 50 watts for each channel and each channel is one speaker in my car.
but i dont have to by another amp right?
You don't have to but you should for best results.
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idk i didnt really look at it when it was playing but it prolly wasnt a inch thick....a local shop built it so they prolly just threw it together and told him it was but it really didnt sound good at all!
Yeah, the shop probably ripped him off. It's probably only a few layers thick and it probably isn't even tuned to what they said. They probably overcharged him too. But yeah, see if it flexes when playing.
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^ thats what i thought too...but from what he told me they made it a inch thick and tuned to 34 hz........ but who knows it sounded like hallow
I'd check to see if it actually is an inch thick, it probably isn't.
If it was for midrange and wasn't adequately thick it could make it sound strange. but for bass I would think it would be kinda hard to tell the difference. Does it flex when the bass hits?
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If you make sure it is thick enough and that it is tuned correctly and has the correct air space it should be the same.
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Wouldn't surprise me if he was on this forum... as we all know... "this forum has a huge boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades" lol
As in my sig
.The wise words of Boon
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Cool,
Thanks for all the responses guys. You pretty much confirmed what I figured, that the box could be improved.
If I can in fact hit 130dB with this sub and amp, I'll be ecstatic! That would be real nice.
bassl0va, I'm not sure what you meant when you quoted bobmcbob. My amp is running 1200w rms. Just to clarify.
you should find someone in your area with a termlab and see what you are really doing now.
Yeah, I screwed that up. Apologies.
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I'm not the smartest person on the forum, but I don't go on hear-say. I'm assuming car audio manufactures are wasting millions of dollars developing capacitors and are trying to squeeze every dollar possible from the enthusiast. Everything manufactures produce have a purpose. If you agree with it or not is one thing, but they have purposes.
money can count as a perfectly good 'purpose'. If you can make a nice profit from it, why not make them?
I'm not saying caps don't have a use BTW.
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Yeah it is a start. I just wish it was louder.
So do you guys think it is reasonably loud for what it is?
Does it have hidden potential, maybe it needs a better box?
I wish I had a Term Lab, or knew someone near me with one.
I figure the mic meter I'm using is a little hit or miss.
Seats fold down, but it's a smallish opening. And it's only one 12.
If it's actually capable of 130s, I'd definitely rebuild a new box for it.
Thanks guys!
Yeah, I'd make a bigger box, maybe 2 cubes instead.
It wasn't on a termlab so we can't say how loud it is.
It's a good sub, it will be the box letting you down.
There is a list of people with termlabs, maybe you can find somebody in your area, i can't remember what section it was under, maybe the SPL one?
I'd guess it is doing at least 125db now. And getting 130db is most likely possible. But don't get caught up on numbers, there are cars which are loud to the ear but suck on a termlab and some which do good numbers but don't sound loud if you sit in it.
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how much average is like a 150 amp alt ? and would that be enough power for a 400watt rms 300 watt rms and add little more wiggle room for upgrade later ?
oh, if you're only running that much then just chuck the caps in, then when you upgrade you can sell them and get another battery.
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Yeah, sell the caps and get a battery. Unless you want to keep one for a voltage readout or just to look cool
. But yeah, you could sell at least one and get a battery with the money. -
@ 1 ohm the sundown probably puts out well over the 1500 it states, dropping the load down to .5 will give an even better chance that youll be producing the 2000.
Don't encourage him. 0.5 ohms + daily =
Also, I challenge the OP to hear the difference between ~1600 and 2000 watts RMS.
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For the reccomended box size.... Then would I be fine going with the minimum box size for space? Or would I be sacraficing / gaining anything?
And for box tuning, if I tune to 20, then I would lose my bass response at 60hz for example?
5. Thanks!
Well, it will be quieter at 60hz so yes. If you have a look on sites like hometheatershack.com you will see that almost everyone tunes to below 20hz, some tune to 14hz (I think I even saw 11hz once
) But that's for movies where you have explosions and rumbles. In a car there almost no point in tuning that low.EDIT: oh and yes, bigger boxes are more efficient but you can't push as much power to the sub as you can with a smaller box (which is less efficient) but I wouldn't worry about that at the moment.
Well as far as airspace, as long as it within thier guidelines, you are fine. Really you can be outside of the reccomended sizes and still be fine, it just wont be optimal. Say you have 2 12's that need 4 cubes ported for the pair, but you can only squeeze 3.5 after port and woofer displacement. Youll be fine.
As for losses/gains im not perfectly sure, but I do know that a smaller box lets you run more power safely, so if your going to run over ur rms it can ok to an extent. a smaller box is less efficient than a bigger box meaning it will take more power to get louder, where as a bigger box can get louder with less power again there are limits. Running too small a box, will choke the sub, not allowing it to move as much air as it could. Case in point 4 12's in 5 cubes which is choking them, will likely be in the same ball park if not less than 2 good 12's in thier proper airspace, because they have room to breath. Running a bigger box has it downfalls, the sub has less control. So playing a super low note say 20hz at max volume can cause the sub to bottom out, damage itself, simply bigger boxes mean you cant push it as much especially at harsh freq like 20hz without risking ur subs.
Anyway, 20hz is a pretty low tuning, 20hz is the limit of what you can hear anyway, if you wanna tune low shoot for 30hz at the lowest, but as someone has already said tuning to 35hz, you will still be able to grab the lows nicely.
Feel free to correct me if ive slipped on anything
Lol, yeah, slipped on the 'post' button
Triple post FTMFL!
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Why do you want 0.5 ohms? Is this for daily?
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so if i have 2 amps on them it'll be fine?
And different frequency ranges for each. Yes. Tune one to 28hz maybe and have it play below 35hz and tune the other to say 42hz and play above 35hz. Just an example.
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please,
That sounds distorted? You didn't bass boost it or anything?
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Just bought a Power 400-2. That should be perfect for these 8's.
Still need to sell this brand new 500 though.
Haha, I wish I could buy stuff just like that!
Why sell it?
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I was gonna use that amp because I already have it. If I can sell it quickly, i'll get a 2-channel.
And here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/75975-2010-mustang-3-15s-7500-watts/
Ok cool. It's just that the sound may still be somewhat directional. But you should be fine until you get another amp.
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It'll be in my build log. Gotta figure out how to get them in my doors. On a RF T500-1 btw.
Build log linky please
?Wait, mono? Don't run them mono. Also, you'll figure something out with some fiberglass that will fit them in.
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Just ordered a set, we'll see how good they are. Then set my amps lpf to 200.
Sounds good
pics/vid when you've done it all? -
Think these would work?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_069900075/F-MODS-70-Hz-high-pass.html?tp=117
I'd go for the 70hz high pass
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Thanks man, I just found that on the12volt.com, If I use a mono amp with the lpf set at 200, will it sound ok? Or will the midbass make the lows sound like shit. I'm running three 15's, so I might not even hear the sub-65hz stuff from the 8's.
I wouldn't do that. It would be a waste of the 8"s. The extra excursion used at the lower frequencies could be better used with more power and a HPF. Plus, you probably wouldn't hear the low bass from them anyway so it would be even more wasteful.
EDIT: Probably a horrible way of explaining what I mean, but think it makes sense
Meade uses a T1000-4 for his 8s. I agree with everything bassl0va said
I agree, too. Now i'm having trouble finding a crossover that has a bandpass setting. Can't afford a 360 right now. And thanks for the amp model.
hmm, you could get clever with your head unit crossover. Set a high pass on that and a low pass on the amp?
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. But yeah, you could sell at least one and get a battery with the money.
) But that's for movies where you have explosions and rumbles. In a car there almost no point in tuning that low.
pics/vid when you've done it all?
Questions without being flamed!
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Yeah, I know you meant that, I was just kidding, hence the jk.
Have a look at knukonceptz for wire, people on here seem to love it.