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aleroking

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Posts posted by aleroking

  1. Is my battery too far gone?

    in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)

    Posted

    did you try charging it up? put on slow charge for few hours, if you tried that and it metered that still... go try buying either some distilled water and put in it IF its low, or better autozone and get some of that battery acid if its low... if not and it still meters that after u slow charge it..... lost cause

    its a dry celled battery, but just charge it up and see what happens , if the voltage comes back load test it and make sure its good.

  4. Strapping Crescendo's???

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    ive ran two strapped at 1.4 on a single 70ah batt and a 250 amp alternator and only dropped to low 12s, now i have over 500ah of batts and only drop to about 13 volts.

    depends on your impedance rise and other things. just try and if your voltage drops low add more runs of 1/0, batts, etc and youll be fine.

  5. Strapping Crescendo's???

    in Amplifiers

    Posted · Edited by aleroking

    wire the rca slave from amp to amp

    your positive speaker lead goes to the positive speaker terminal on the master amp

    your negative speaker lead goes to the positive speaker terminal on the slave amp

    wire from the master amps negative speaker terminal to the slave amps negative speaker terminal.

    thats all you need to do, just make sure you have the amps on master and slave and wire the rcas from your source unit to the master amp

  8. A few general questions about building a wall

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I built my first ever enclosure about 2 months ago, for a single 15" tuned to about 31hz or so. Shit pounds like mad. But obviouslly as a basshead i need MOAR BASS! So i've decided to build a wall. Im buying my old Volkswagen Golf Mk3 back from a friend and selling my car, main reason is because my Golf was beautiful, second reason is to swap from 5 door to 3 door, i think a wall in a 3 door is a better idea then a 5.

    My plan is 4 15" 's in a wall directly behind the front seats, placed where the rear seats would go. But i need help with a few things....

    Im building the box in the car, but how do i actually mount the box down onto the car? So its not going to tip or move at all.

    Do i just glue the bottom wood for the box directly to the car? Or is there another way of doing it.

    Its going to be subs forward port forward, with 3 common walls (top, bottem and side, so i think that means 3 common walls?) but is there any benefit to a specific side the port needs to go on? Or is driver and passenger side exactly the same?

    I've seen a few people do two layers of wood on the side of the box where the subs go, im not sure what this is called, but does this help strengthen the box and spread the weight of the subs? Would this be something i should do?

    I want to spray the box black, but if im building it in the car is there any tip or trick to spraying the box without getting it all over the inside of the car?

    The box is going to be a basic rectangle/square shape, so what do people do to fill the space between the box and the rear windows? So that if people look from the inside of the car to the back they cant see into the rear of the car?

    And lastly i need to know how to build the box so it wont just fall apart when the subs are in from the weight, do i need to put wooden "pillars" on the inside from top to bottom to strengthen the box?

    I know i have a lot of questions but id rather ask everything i need to, rather then do it and have a shed of a wall.

    If anyone can answer even one question it would be a great help, and also does anyone have a link handy to a build of a wall in a car that shows in a fair ammount of detail how the box is actually built and strengthened ect?

    bolt the box to the car on the thru the bottom of the wall

    i would do drivers side port if you can if not on the top center.

    where the subs mount is the baffle i would do at least 2 layers, i would do the whole thing in two layers if not you are going to want to fiberglass and brace it good or it will be flexing good.

    if your gonna paint it just use a brush or roller or it will probally get all over your car.

    the easy way to seal the wall to the car is with expanding spray foam.

    tbh though it seems like you are getting way over your head.

    check out my build log in my sig i took a good bit of pictures along the way building my wall.

  9. powerbass xa-1500d

    in Amplifiers

    Posted · Edited by aleroking

    powerbass doesnt make much over rated

    your sundown probably does close to 1500

    you wouldnt have any audible difference from switching amps, and i guarantee the sundown will be way more reliable.

    i had two xa3000s smoke on me out of no where with my music barely even on. i would never run xa amps again.

    the xa series are notorious for failing, blowing, pieces falling off the board etc.

  10. Proper BC2000d Set up

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    You don't need either. Just make sure you have the same batteries everywhere, wire + to +, and ground the - and that's it

    x2 a cap wont do anything and an isolator only does anything when the car is turned off.

    just isolates the front batt so you can totally drain the rear ones and still have power to start the car.

    ive noticed a decent difference from running negative runs from front to back also.

    all the batts dont have to be the exact same but stick with the same brands.

    just get the biggest you can up front and then a group 31 or close in back.

  11. the "mary kay" malibu on 20's ascendant audio/ massive audio * check it out*

    in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic

    Posted · Edited by aleroking

    LOL I like how the vid cuts off when it finally starts beating -___-

    lol yeh wasnt much flex or anything she just had all the doors open playing it lightly just showing off

    maybe next time ill get a demo and some flex action for yall.

    Calling that a mary kay car is like calling a pastors escalade on 30's a church vehicle. Slap a little door sticker on it and write it off on income taxes.

    she got it for free from selling mary kay product and then did all that to it.

  23. Looking at junk on ebay, check out the areo ports on this box.

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted · Edited by aleroking

    Custom Built Ported & Recessed Subwoofer Enclosure for 2 12" JL Audio 12w6v2 Subs

    Pay By Phone With Your Credit Card!

    Call Or Text Us Any Time!

    859-559-1902 - Tyler Adams

    everyone text him or call if you please and tell him hes a dumbass, the ports touch the back of the box???

    it looks nice though so people who dont know are probably like damn my jls will bump

    Why Ported? The answer is simple. Ported boxes will give your subs the advantage of preforming at their highest potential in a way that sealed and bandpass boxes will not. However the size of the enclosure and the diameter / length of the port tubes, must meet individual requirements of the specific sub your running. Therefor not every ported box on the market will give you the sound you are looking for. Running your subs in the wrong box can cause damage to your subs over time. Since our enclosures are designed and built for specific subs, you won't have to worry your subs not preforming their very best!

  24. Need Alarm system, do i attempt to install to????

    in Security Center - Car/Home Alarms, devices, tactics, tips....

    Posted

    thanks man, and as far as sensors. wher should i put them. i like the viper becuase you can buy tilt sensers, volume senors(like breaking glass) and another one i forgot. . . with that being said. where should i put them when i get one? if i only had one senser whats the best one? and i have a 99 jeep grand cherkee. . . in the amp rack? (its like a cheap movable box) with high sensitivity?

    the one i linked has the sensor built in to the brain its mounted under the dash,

    but it will be wired up so that if anyone pulls a door handle, bumps it hard or hits the window the alarm will go off, a soft bump sends a warning chirp.

    usually it will be less sensitive in the back because its further away from the sensor but you could just have the sensitivity up but that may make it a little over sensitive on the front. some units you can add on multiple sensors.

    even with my sensor under the dash though a decent bump to my trunk sets it off.

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