aleroking

its a dry celled battery, but just charge it up and see what happens , if the voltage comes back load test it and make sure its good.

would be a good setup for alot of power. If you want to have a better daily setter go smaller on the port and tune lower. this will add to your volume and should play lower. you can also get away with less port area the lower you tune.

looking for a new battery charger something thats good for agm batteries and wont charge at high voltages ever. something with a low 14 volt cut off hopefully. im trying to charge over 500ah of batteries so a decent amperage rating is necessary.

ive ran two strapped at 1.4 on a single 70ah batt and a 250 amp alternator and only dropped to low 12s, now i have over 500ah of batts and only drop to about 13 volts. depends on your impedance rise and other things. just try and if your voltage drops low add more runs of 1/0, batts, etc and youll be fine.

wire the rca slave from amp to amp your positive speaker lead goes to the positive speaker terminal on the master amp your negative speaker lead goes to the positive speaker terminal on the slave amp wire from the master amps negative speaker terminal to the slave amps negative speaker terminal. thats all you need to do, just make sure you have the amps on master and slave and wire the rcas from your source unit to the master amp

have you guys ever heard of impedance rise? you could have a 5k amp wired to 1 ohm rising to 4 ohm and only getting maybe 2000 watts out of it.

and the "pillars" you speak of would be bracing which can be all thread, dowel rod, 2x4s, "window bracing" using sheets of wood hollowed out. do alot more research and look at a lot of build logs before you undertake this project it is a lot more work than you are probably thinking.

bolt the box to the car on the thru the bottom of the wall i would do drivers side port if you can if not on the top center. where the subs mount is the baffle i would do at least 2 layers, i would do the whole thing in two layers if not you are going to want to fiberglass and brace it good or it will be flexing good. if your gonna paint it just use a brush or roller or it will probally get all over your car. the easy way to seal the wall to the car is with expanding spray foam. tbh though it seems like you are getting way over your head. check out my build log in my sig i took a good bit of pictures along the way building my wall.

powerbass doesnt make much over rated your sundown probably does close to 1500 you wouldnt have any audible difference from switching amps, and i guarantee the sundown will be way more reliable. i had two xa3000s smoke on me out of no where with my music barely even on. i would never run xa amps again. the xa series are notorious for failing, blowing, pieces falling off the board etc.

x2 a cap wont do anything and an isolator only does anything when the car is turned off.just isolates the front batt so you can totally drain the rear ones and still have power to start the car. ive noticed a decent difference from running negative runs from front to back also. all the batts dont have to be the exact same but stick with the same brands. just get the biggest you can up front and then a group 31 or close in back.

lol yeh wasnt much flex or anything she just had all the doors open playing it lightly just showing off maybe next time ill get a demo and some flex action for yall. she got it for free from selling mary kay product and then did all that to it.

do the big three and replace the stock batt with a deep cycle and put a deep cycle in the back too and youll be fine.

i just lost the passenger mirror driving down the road and it sucks yes, been trying to find a new one. and staying in the right hand lane for now.

abo?

i just dont think she was happy with the company, and she was planning on switching to jerrys smds and a 500.1 , but he decided to keep them for a new build.