gogojjt
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Posts posted by gogojjt
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what is your port height? and are the other measurements outside or inside diameter? subs brand/model? how many? other than port noise due to a bad design/miscalculation ...and other than posting a video to hear the noise, idk man!!!!
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could be subs bottoming out!!! i built a box for a buddy of mine once, beast of a box ported to 32hz, no problems with the box and like you when volume turned up just over half, hella popping-scary noise!!! i tested all the voice coils(came back fine) and the amp gain was barely up with a little bass boost. the subs were brand new from kicker(compvx's, the best ones they make). i sent them back to kicker and got new subs, put them in and no more noise(i did upgrade to 8 gauge for the sub wiring too, i did have 12 gauge, so that might of helped). but before i sent the subs back, i did some research on the web and all came back to subs bottoming out. in my case i think the first batch of subs had a default in the construction...
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i know i know, i've seen topics like this before. searching showed no results tho. but i bought a carputer, and should be able to buy the screen here fairly soon to mold into my dash and i'm looking for a nice head unit with a decent equalizer in it to go along with it. right now i have a DEH-P6900UB which is an ok unit, just not my all time fav. so i may try to sell that one if i find a good replacement. i have a couple in mind but want to see what others' opinions are. or if i should get a separate eq altogether. not too much experience with head units. i've usually had in dash screens or just a cheapy unit to hold me over
oh yeah and i'm not looking to spend a fortune. just enough to get something satisfactory
pioneer deh-p880prs or p800prs would be a good choice...ive found them on www.productsalz.com i've never bought anything from that website personally, but for the price they offer those two on there is unbelievable. maybe try calling them and feel out the customer service. kenwoods kdc-x993 is a decent one for sound and you can align your speakers with it, but the eq only has 5 bands...
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yo, i dont know which one you ended up buying, i just had one more idea for ya if it didnt work out for ya....you could use the first one from ebay with the remotes(6 amp one)....and an automotive relay a 30 to 40 amp one......you could wire the module up positive 12v and ground, send the output of the module to the 85 side of the relay, ground the 86 side....send 12 volts to bottom 30, and wire all your positive wires from your leds to the 87 of the relay....pretty much when you hit the buttons on the key fob it will trigger the relay, mimicking the module, and there ya go problem solved...i dont know why it took me so long to think of this one......
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mechman, i was wandering if you offered anything for a 2002 toyota celica? looking for one single high amp alternator or a dual alternator set up? its the gt model 5 speed not the gts model...thanks, prob about 8000 watts will be going in when i do the build...
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yea, i didnt read the fine print, major fail on my part, but i know that led's hardly draw any current so you might be fine with the 6 amp one, the first one you were checking out on ebay which does more than just strobe and you get remotes...i would just research the lights you already have and add up the current draw off all of them..it should be written on the packaging or the light housings somewhere...i think it wouldnt exceed 6 amps...good luck man
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can you please post a link to the 12 amp one? that sounds like it would be perfect
and no im not a fireman/police/emt anything like that, i just want them on the truck for late night shows..parties..whenever to have fun
here ya go http://www.plasmaled.com/wireless.htm
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that would work great, but i want them to flash by themselves, i just want something as strong as that but for strobes
i quoted 2 different modules, what i was saying was on their website they have a 15 amp module that will do the same exact thing as the first option on ebay that you asked about...the 6amp one, giving you more amps to play with which should be enough to do all your lights flashing at once....check out their website...
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if you go to the actual website of the module...www.plasmaled.com they offer a high power unit up 15 amps and they also offer a 4 channel at 6 amps max per channel if you just want to turn them on and off seperately....i believe steve used a module like this for controlling his amps
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out of all of those i would say go with the first one posted. you can output up to 6 amps the other ones dont give you as much output. add up all the amp draws of each light you plan on using and see what you get. if it goes over 6 amps you might need to get two modules to control all your lights.
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sorry for the double post, where the smiley face is with the gun to the head it should say eighty hertz, for some reason every time i type the numbers it post the gun to the head smiley...lol
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i would say 80 hz for the high pass and 60 hz for the sub low pass. turn the sub off from the deck...start by finding the clipping point of the headunit(with an oscilloscope, connect rca's and turn volume up till square waves form and then turn it down a few notches) if you dont have a scope then do it the old fashion way "by ear". turn up the headunit up bout 70-75 percent of full volume(make sure you have your high amp turned all the way down). play a good song you know that sounds good. now fade to the front, turn the gain on your amp for the front speakers till your hear distortion and then crank it down a few notches. now with the rear speaker gain turned all the way down, put the fader in center position and slowly turn up your rear speaker gain on your amp till you just hear them, you dont want them to overpower the frontstage so crank them down just a tad since there just there to make a little noise. now make sure your sub amp is all the way down. turn the sub on on your deck set the filter and slowly turn up the gain on the sub amp till you find the subs sweet spot with the front stage and viola! you have a great sounding system. this is just for sound quality though, if your looking for spl, then i would ask for advice in that forum. also, i believe there is a more in depth post about tuning in the soundquality forum......good luck
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i would say 80 hz for the high pass and 60 hz for the sub low pass. turn the sub off from the deck...start by finding the clipping point of the headunit(with an oscilloscope, connect rca's and turn volume up till square waves form and then turn it down a few notches) if you dont have a scope then do it the old fashion way "by ear". turn up the headunit up bout 70-75 percent of full volume(make sure you have your high amp turned all the way down). play a good song you know that sounds good. now fade to the front, turn the gain on your amp for the front speakers till your hear distortion and then crank it down a few notches. now with the rear speaker gain turned all the way down, put the fader in center position and slowly turn up your rear speaker gain on your amp till you just hear them, you dont want them to overpower the frontstage so crank them down just a tad since there just there to make a little noise. now make sure your sub amp is all the way down. turn the sub on on your deck set the filter and slowly turn up the gain on the sub amp till you find the subs sweet spot with the front stage and viola! you have a great sounding system. this is just for sound quality though, if your looking for spl, then i would ask for advice in that forum. also, i believe there is a more in depth post about tuning in the soundquality forum......good luck
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I wish i could find one that had separate adjustments for both the front and the rear...
The only one i could find was a power acoustik one and it was a single DIN, and i kind of need a half DIN...
Another problem with that one is that "band 1 range" starts at 30hz...
But then the Frequency response started at 10hz... so i don't even know if thats bad... lol
check it out, im here to help ya, first off the deck does only have a 2 band parametric eq, it was designed for an upsell, so you would have to buy the imprint to tweek it....and the clarion eq is a good deal, it also has high volt outputs which your amps will like...now the human ear can only hear from 20 hz to 20khz...so when they talk about frequency response that's what that means. you cant look at an eq as alot of "volume knobs" though. they are designed to achieve flat frequency response and to add personal touches where ya like it...i would buy the clarion if i were you, go to an car audio shop and ask them to term lab an rta of your car for ya...that will give the actual frequency response of the car so then you can adjust your eq to that rta curve of the car they give ya, by cutting out peaks and smoothing it out. it will prob cost you bout 25 bucks or so for a print out. hope this helps, oh yea, the clarion also has a seperate bass boost knob...
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im sorry they dont put out power, you have to have an amp to do that duh!!!!! put they are rated at 125 watts(power) rms. wtf
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no one has used or heard these ?
i have no personal experience with this series, but i have used the opti6.1 s. i know the 6.1 s are awesome components and i will be using them in my next build. they put out 100 rms. lanzar's website gives you the rms as a whole set of speakers so you will have to divide that by two to get the rms. so in your case it would be 125 rms per side using the crossover. i love lanzar and im sure they will be great.
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just wanted to add a few more cents on troubleshooting....if you dont think its your headunit......try replacing your rca's and see if the noise stops....does this noise happen when the engine is off? that could eliminate the alternator whine...could place a ground loop isolator in line with rca's and try that........or a noise filter. volt match gain on amp with rca output of headunit...other than a better ground i cant think of any options...sometimes using different companies will cause noise.....like sony headunit with pioneer amp...if none of that works i would try a fully functioning head unit as i said above...goodluck
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Usually thats just caused from the ground not being good enough.I have heard that same sound from people whos rcas on the HU itself were jacked up.Try shortening the ground wire as short as possible and cleaning off the metal so it contacts better.Try adding a ground wire to the metal of the HU itself with a small machine screw in one of the little holes,ground that to something metal on the inside of the dash where your wiring harness is at.I bet if you unhook your rcas the sound goes away,so it sounds like something in that area.
Also im not sure about this but i was told when i had that problem before to change my spark plugs,dont ask me why because i do not know.I changed them but it didnt help it was the actual HU causing my problem.
i have this same problem now, i would say it's more than likely the headunit has an issue. i had a pioneer deh-6000 hooked up before and my whole system operated perfectly, no noise no problems, i sold it cause i was planning on an upgrade and i stuck this cheap sony in for the time being and the noise and problems started. it could be the rca's like l8-nite said being jacked up on the headunit or just something internal on the headunit like the d/a converter, etc. i usually get the noise on power up and inserting cd's and once the car warms up it's like the cd player warms up...lol...but hey who know's...i would def try replacing the headunit or if you have a buddy that has one you can wire up to test to see if its the problem...you could def try the grounding thing, but im almost sure its just the headunit took a crap........goodluck
New box = noise?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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well those dd's are beast, so i dont think they would bottom out!!! i wish i could hear the noise to better help ya homie. ill mock up a box with those dimensions and that sub in my program to see what's up with it!!(to see if i get too much port noise) what coils do you have on the sub? only other thing, could be wiring is coming lose on the sub itself and malfunctioning as the volume is increased. you gotta a good amp too, so i dont think that is the problem.