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well those dd's are beast, so i dont think they would bottom out!!! i wish i could hear the noise to better help ya homie. ill mock up a box with those dimensions and that sub in my program to see what's up with it!!(to see if i get too much port noise) what coils do you have on the sub? only other thing, could be wiring is coming lose on the sub itself and malfunctioning as the volume is increased. you gotta a good amp too, so i dont think that is the problem.

what is your port height? and are the other measurements outside or inside diameter? subs brand/model? how many? other than port noise due to a bad design/miscalculation ...and other than posting a video to hear the noise, idk man!!!!

could be subs bottoming out!!! i built a box for a buddy of mine once, beast of a box ported to 32hz, no problems with the box and like you when volume turned up just over half, hella popping-scary noise!!! i tested all the voice coils(came back fine) and the amp gain was barely up with a little bass boost. the subs were brand new from kicker(compvx's, the best ones they make). i sent them back to kicker and got new subs, put them in and no more noise(i did upgrade to 8 gauge for the sub wiring too, i did have 12 gauge, so that might of helped). but before i sent the subs back, i did some research on the web and all came back to subs bottoming out. in my case i think the first batch of subs had a default in the construction...

pioneer deh-p880prs or p800prs would be a good choice...ive found them on www.productsalz.com i've never bought anything from that website personally, but for the price they offer those two on there is unbelievable. maybe try calling them and feel out the customer service. kenwoods kdc-x993 is a decent one for sound and you can align your speakers with it, but the eq only has 5 bands...

yo, i dont know which one you ended up buying, i just had one more idea for ya if it didnt work out for ya....you could use the first one from ebay with the remotes(6 amp one)....and an automotive relay a 30 to 40 amp one......you could wire the module up positive 12v and ground, send the output of the module to the 85 side of the relay, ground the 86 side....send 12 volts to bottom 30, and wire all your positive wires from your leds to the 87 of the relay....pretty much when you hit the buttons on the key fob it will trigger the relay, mimicking the module, and there ya go problem solved...i dont know why it took me so long to think of this one......

mechman, i was wandering if you offered anything for a 2002 toyota celica? looking for one single high amp alternator or a dual alternator set up? its the gt model 5 speed not the gts model...thanks, prob about 8000 watts will be going in when i do the build...

yea, i didnt read the fine print, major fail on my part, but i know that led's hardly draw any current so you might be fine with the 6 amp one, the first one you were checking out on ebay which does more than just strobe and you get remotes...i would just research the lights you already have and add up the current draw off all of them..it should be written on the packaging or the light housings somewhere...i think it wouldnt exceed 6 amps...good luck man

here ya go http://www.plasmaled.com/wireless.htm

i quoted 2 different modules, what i was saying was on their website they have a 15 amp module that will do the same exact thing as the first option on ebay that you asked about...the 6amp one, giving you more amps to play with which should be enough to do all your lights flashing at once....check out their website...

if you go to the actual website of the module...www.plasmaled.com they offer a high power unit up 15 amps and they also offer a 4 channel at 6 amps max per channel if you just want to turn them on and off seperately....i believe steve used a module like this for controlling his amps

out of all of those i would say go with the first one posted. you can output up to 6 amps the other ones dont give you as much output. add up all the amp draws of each light you plan on using and see what you get. if it goes over 6 amps you might need to get two modules to control all your lights.

sorry for the double post, where the smiley face is with the gun to the head it should say eighty hertz, for some reason every time i type the numbers it post the gun to the head smiley...lol

i would say 80 hz for the high pass and 60 hz for the sub low pass. turn the sub off from the deck...start by finding the clipping point of the headunit(with an oscilloscope, connect rca's and turn volume up till square waves form and then turn it down a few notches) if you dont have a scope then do it the old fashion way "by ear". turn up the headunit up bout 70-75 percent of full volume(make sure you have your high amp turned all the way down). play a good song you know that sounds good. now fade to the front, turn the gain on your amp for the front speakers till your hear distortion and then crank it down a few notches. now with the rear speaker gain turned all the way down, put the fader in center position and slowly turn up your rear speaker gain on your amp till you just hear them, you dont want them to overpower the frontstage so crank them down just a tad since there just there to make a little noise. now make sure your sub amp is all the way down. turn the sub on on your deck set the filter and slowly turn up the gain on the sub amp till you find the subs sweet spot with the front stage and viola! you have a great sounding system. this is just for sound quality though, if your looking for spl, then i would ask for advice in that forum. also, i believe there is a more in depth post about tuning in the soundquality forum......good luck

check it out, im here to help ya, first off the deck does only have a 2 band parametric eq, it was designed for an upsell, so you would have to buy the imprint to tweek it....and the clarion eq is a good deal, it also has high volt outputs which your amps will like...now the human ear can only hear from 20 hz to 20khz...so when they talk about frequency response that's what that means. you cant look at an eq as alot of "volume knobs" though. they are designed to achieve flat frequency response and to add personal touches where ya like it...i would buy the clarion if i were you, go to an car audio shop and ask them to term lab an rta of your car for ya...that will give the actual frequency response of the car so then you can adjust your eq to that rta curve of the car they give ya, by cutting out peaks and smoothing it out. it will prob cost you bout 25 bucks or so for a print out. hope this helps, oh yea, the clarion also has a seperate bass boost knob...