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FCsteve

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Posts posted by FCsteve

  1. that box barely fits in the back of the seats in his 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup truck. i dont think he can make it much bigger.

    if he keeps that box the ports would have to come out the sides or the back(from just looking). it would prolly be easier to build a new one. a new box wouldnt necessarily have to be much bigger. but it would be better if it was designed to have a port rather then cutting up a premade box and trying to make a port onto it.

  2. i was wondering if it was ok 2 build a box using gorilla glue

    ore should i just stick to tite bond and elmers

    personally ive never used gorilla glue to try and build a box. i always use titebond. its better to be safe then sorry. i have never heard or expierenced anything good with gorilla glue.

  3. dude...his car is nice

    m3 body kit look sick. He is getting led taillights and hid for healight, lowering springs, and some einkin rims lol

    sorry bro for getting so off topic lol

    lol. its ok. i always have time to hear about another BMW. the m3's do look good. im getting the hid headlights and the lowering springs soon. i have 17" tsw imola's on my car already.

  4. True, but if you don't have the welder, have an exhaust shop do some bends for you. Anyone decent shouldn't charge too much.

    Really though, I hate to seem rude, but if someone is going to really build a turbo car and they can't or are not willing to involve a pro or two, they really need to learn to prioritize if they don't

    A. Own a welder

    B. Have access to one

    You can apply A and B to a lot of tools. If it is a DSM, you better be sure you have flex sockets...grumbling over excessive expense cause they cost way too much...since the angle adapter combined with a socket is too much to try to fit in some of the critical areas that seem to always need attention.

    Also, don't get me wrong when I'm talking about paying a pro to do the work. I'm all for DIY, no one touches my cars, that is how I learn/have learned to do any of this stuff. My point is just about spending big $$ on a turbo kit but not being willing to spend the $$ on the tools or persons to install it.

    Like the sub-title on the tools section on the forum here. Tools - we are nothing without them (or something close to that, I was too lazy to go get a direct quote).

    i dont own a welder. my mom does. but if she didnt i wouldnt pay to have someone else do it. id find someone who knows someone who would let me use theirs. x2 on the doing your own work. i hate anyone working on my car. i always feel like the job doesnt get done right if i dont do it. some people blow their load on the turbo/kit and dont anticipate having to modify it or anything. alot of people just look at the " dirct bolt on" title to the kit and think .. ok, this will just screw on .. which it never will. they should just get rid of that title and/or description of a turbo.

  5. Some alterations required...

    No joke, it seems to me like a generic kit would be easier in almost all cases (of course, the kit would have to be specific to the manifold flange of the vehicle and the downpipe, assuming the kit comes with one, will have to mate with the cat or center section. Other than that, they should be a generic. Give a full plumbing set for the intercooler with a bunch of couplings and elbows, and make sure that there is a short section with the BOV flange on it. That seems to be the worst problem. In one kit that I installed for a friend, the kit that he ordered had the flange on the turbo intake tube (I was surprised that it had the intake tube, they usually cheap out on that). I don't think the turbo would have lasted more than a week and a half if I had left it like that.

    ya, in most cases it would be alot easier to get the generic kit, but not everyone has a welder lying around to work with. ive heard of shops trying to charge rediculous amounts for modifying and installing turbos. thats y i always suggest a kit made for your car if there is one.

  6. yah I told him that..haha difting is fun in that car so much torque and power!!!

    ya. rwd is one of the best things about them.when its warm you can always just go into a turn and gas it and get a nice drift to make your day go better. you can do it in cold weather but you slide enough on dry warm ground. adding cold and if you live arond pa, snow. it gets out of control. drifting is my favorite way to bring up my mood :)

  7. dam um bro....tuff fit...my buddy has the m3 racing one. sorry to jack but where are you getting the turbo he needs one? he wants to go major with power..Wants to get it up to 550hp!!!

    if he has an m3 e30 it shuoldnt be a tuff fit at all. im getting the turbo through my mom. but if you look on ebay they sell direct bolt on turbo kits for e30's, it does fit direct bolt on lie they say, my mom installed one at her shop and they had to modify it a bit to get it to fit, but it worked. holset and turbotechnics (sp) make good turbos.

  8. Yeah, it was a little cramped. So, I'm curious, what kind of car are you working with? Do you have anything in the works to help deal with the extra heat?

    my car is an 86 bmw 325e its a rwd 2.7 liter 6 cylinder motor.5 speed manuel of course. right now its all gutted to body metal on the inside. i had to stop working this weekend and put back some stuff so i can pass inspection, my mom owns the shop but she would still fail me.

    its been a whole bunch of setbacks so far. i have a 12" btl that i have to sell before i can order one of my new subs, i had to reinstall a bunch of stuff so i could pass inspection, and now i have to get surgery so that will put me out a couple months more. nothing ever goes easy.

  9. NOOOO my brotha. It was at one brief point (about 2 weeks of my ownership). Then it was an FP Big T28, then a small 16g which didn't take long to kill (courtesy of faulty HKS SSQV...never again will I even give one of those a chance, especially since I had to pull that turbo and put in the new one in the middle of January in my garage which I had to leave open for me to be able to work where I needed), and from their she was fitted with a Big 16g with a little extra care from Forced Performance. The specs on the wheels were not released to me. It was that turbo which required the addition of the external wastegate. It could have survived with an internal actuator in theory, but I think that boost creep would have been an issue. There was actually some speculation that the Tial 38mm wouldn't be sufficient but it worked like a champ.

    your engine compartment looked like it was gonna overflow. my engine has alt of free space, and it'll have alot more after the washer fluid gets removed to inside the driver compartment, all the free space should help it stay a little cooler. but i was expecting more heat action under the hood.

    is your newer turbo project done or is it still in the works ? and what kind of car or is it the same car ?

  10. Turbochargers = heat!

    Everything (for the most part) under your hood is going to be seeing higher temps when the turbo is installed.

    HO alts usually create a bit more heat.

    Not necessarily a problem but it can be.

    Example - my last turbo car - 99 DSM

    100_0598b.jpg

    Look on the heat shield on the turbo manifold in the area immediately around the wastegate. This picture was taken after a 10 minute (probably a bit less) test drive after some maintenance. The heat shield had been painted w/ way high temp paint (ford-ish) blue. It was left to cure for several days (as was the car) before it was reinstalled along with some other things. I took it out, drove 3 mins. or so to get to a somewhat safe area to run and I opened it up. I ran hard for 2 minutes tops, returned home and blue had become bright white.

    Just something to think about.

    Edit:

    PS: for those of you who like forced induction, I should have my next project car within a week or two. :P I will try to remember to put up some pics. It will be a long time between stock and finished though.

    is that stock turbo ?

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