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Posts posted by FCsteve
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and a hopefully understanding wife!!!
lol goodluck with that one
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dual alts and 2 more kinetik hc2000.
a truck load of fiberglass resin and matting would be pretty good too.
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you just have to get creative. you are fiberglassing correct? so make some curves like a chick
lol
i think im gonna do a panel that attaches to the main door panel but its raised up 3/4 of an inch with a bmw emblem in the center. so the doors will be one color, the second panel will be another and it will have the emblem in the middle raised and centered in fiberglass.
so it will be a nice little accent to the door. without going through major work for a part of the door that nobody can see unless i have my doors open.
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instead of any logo i would have an ascent with like a leather or vynyl to fill the space.
they look good. but its the bottom corner of my door where there is nothing. no curves or anything to accent with leather or material.
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I would do some kind of custom logo there-like if you have a "shop" name or your nickname or something like that in plexi and light the edges with LEDs. Maybe a big BMW logo? Or a Nice Polk or RF logo in there etched on some plexi or in vinyl sticker on plexi? there are tonns of possibilities.
Or maybe some SCREENS if you have $$$ to blow on em-I'm not a big "screen" guy but I have seen some nice clean setups w/ a 7" or so screen in each door angled in and glassed nicely.
i dont have the money for screens. im gonna do Polk and BMW in the front two doors then in the rear im gonna do RF and FI. with plexi and led's behind. im trying to figure out how im gonna get the logo on there cuz nobody around here does custom etching or vinyl stickers.
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click on the sema special if its still there. Remember how much money you are gonna spend on that glassing material man. you might as well top it off. BTW the guy who made that stuff is a dbdragger.
ya. id have to do a panel on all 4 doors. and one of those light panels cost more then the price of fiberglass to cover all 4 doors.
im prolly gonna make an LED panel for each door. RF, FI, Polk audio and the driver door ill make a panel for my shop. its pretty simple but it would accent the doors pretty nice.
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http://www.razor-lite.com/
put a panel in there
thats a good idea. i was thinking about doing something like that with LEDs. but that would make it alot easier. that stuff is rediculously expensive tho.
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fiberglass a skull or something like that in each
alot of prople do that. i dont think they look good.
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im doing my doors in fiberglass for a second time. the first time i only had one mid and one tweet in each door. so i figured if im gonna upgrade my subs and amps. i need to upgrade my mids and highs. im doing two mids, two tweets and the crossover in both of my front doors. (all polk db components) but i have this big empty space that i dont kno what to put in. i was going to put the amp for each door in the door(RF p200-2's). but they stick out too far and they hit the lever on the side of my seat.
so the question is. what to do with all the space thats empty. i dont want to have it just plain flat.
what are your suggestions or ideas ??
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i was watching a used rf t3k on ebay for a few days now. like i always do, i bid at the last sec. had no idea i was going to WIN IT. winning bid was $555.50. who can beat that? thats like $500 off at HDA price.
thats rediculously cheep. i just bought one of my rf t20001bd at HDA for 575
you got lucky on that one. congrats
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tell her this one, should get a good laugh...
tell her you need to buy some more crack
should have her rollin
just do that. its always best to be honest. nobody ever believes the truth.
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i was being sarcastic
lol. i was just like ????? what is this kid smoking
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like if you were to already buy the subs in a box...then go with duals!
duals as in the walmart brand ? .. i wouldnt get those.
the Polk Audio subs from circuit city are good. ive heard they hit pretty hard.
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those are ok.. but i would never buy them. imagine a person curbing one of those rims.
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cooling option it is.
thanks guys.
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im gonna be running 2 12's in my trunk.
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is it better to get the p-chamfer or the cooling option ? i was reading on the *** forum and it says you sacrifice with the cooling option, weeker motor and its not good for a burp/fart setup.
im gonna be running it for my daily setup off a rf t20001bd. but i still wanna be able to get good spl in competition.
so... p-chamfer ... or cooling ?
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Sweet!!!
n8ball2013 im the complete opposite, i love it. But i like working in car audio when you can wear shorts and shorts sleeves
i hate snow. but i fully agree with you on the working on your car in good weather.
it sucks to try and get out and work on your car when your freezing. plus fiberglass and adhesives dont work as great when they are frozen.
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it snowed all day today in pennsylvania.
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I was looking more at this http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5530
i have that head unit currently in my car. it wont skip on daily music. but it cant handle competition bass. it does skip like he said.
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or a few screws.
ya. i usually fiberglass the inside so i dont use screws too much. but they are good too.
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i usually stick with mdf and titebond. use a clamp to hold it together while it dries and you'll be good.
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is that one amp and battery all you are running those subs off ? .. or do you got some stealth batts and amps tucked away ?
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rebuilt by the same people that build them, at a discount price, seems alot better than buying new....IMO
deffinetly. nobody can beat those prices for pretty much new RF amps and equipment.
How Long...?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
it all depends how fast you work and the setup up the truck panels and battery. when i installed my last system in my car with the capacitor and everything it took me about an hour. but when i took the system out of my car and installed it into my buddys carolla it took amost 3 hours.
IMO you can do it in 2 hours time if you start off with all the right wires and parts you need. prolly less time.