FCsteve
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Posts posted by FCsteve
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hell no cuz then they can say that the warrenty is voided because somebody unauthorized worked on the car and messed up something. Ive seen it done and it cant afford to get it fixed at my cost at the moment... thats ehy i got a new car period so i wont have a problems but it never fails lol
my uncles car was under warranty and he had serious brake problems, they told him it was fine and he could keep going. he took it to my moms shop and she gave him an estimate(he needed all new rotors and pads). my uncle brought the estimate to the dealer and they said they would fix it. ask your dealer if you could get a second opinion. as long as they dont change anything it should not void your warranty in any way.
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alot of dealers wont really look seriously at cars under warranty. see what a local shop says.
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is it under warranty ?
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sand the chrome down to bare metal the fiber bond will stick
will the bondo glass hold up ? i know everyone says the original bondo doesnt hold. but i never hear about the bondo glass. i dont want it flaking off my rims
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i have silver 17 inch tsw imolas. problem is they are curbed real bad. the local shop told me it would cost me $120 to fix each wheel but for that price i could almost buy brand new rims. im not the one who curbed them, i bought them off a puerto rican who told me the lady before him curbed them, but i think the PR just couldnt drive and didnt want to own up to it. i only paid 80 for the set of 4. they have brand new low pro tires on them and they are going to be painted black as soon as i recover from surgery. but i want to fix the deep scratches and kniks before i paint them. i have bondo and bondo glass but im real sketchy about putting bondo on my rims. does anyone know a way i could fix them ?
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auto so you can concentrate on your stereo instead of shifting.
i sold my btl, rft2k, polk coaxials, polk components and my pioneer hu to get money for the motor of my choice.a v8 is music enough.
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From that, the key is 1) budget 2) what will the vehicle be used for. For track, I'd go with an auto hands down, due to faster shifts. If street use, being how I drive...Manual no questions asked. You can do things to speed up manual shifting such as adjusting your clutch, shortening your shift throw..etc.
my budget is extremely minimal. thats y im doing a v8 vs an upgrade motor in my car. the v8 is easier and cheaper.
its going to be my DD street car. but it has to be able to throw down against novas and all them chevy cars at the track. my car is manuel right now and ive always been against automatic, but i dont wanna regret not going auto if it would be the better choice. IMO stick is much more fun to drive because it requires skill, where automatic is simply put your foot to the floor and thats all you got. which is not admirable in my eyes. cuz anyone can push a pedal, not everyone can shift.
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hmm.
well you might could get away with using a 10 bolt out of a metric monte carlo, but i dunno how itd hold up to 600hp.
but theyre not too wide i dont think.
or if you have the money, get one built for the car
nah. im doing the v8 because they are cheap and almost every mod can be done in hours, ther eis no days or weeks without a car because you had to change a filter or something stupid. it'll be a used rear end. i have to research what will work and wont break.
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as for a rear end, id get a chevy 12 bolt, theyre pretty tough, or if you want more gear ratio availability get a ford 9" and fab it in there.
might i ask what kind of car this is going in?
its going in a car. no ford parts allowed. i have to watch what rear end i use because i want the car to appear stock, atleast somewhat, no big blower out the hood or any of that. so whatever rear end i use it has to be generally under my wheel wells, if i have to widen my wheel wells thats ok, but i dont want my rear wheels sticking uot a mile
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buy a centerforce dual friction clutch.
best damn single disc clutch made.
we ran one in a dirt track race car and in a whole season it burnt off like .003" off the disc.
thats if youre gonna go with a standard
and if you want a standard tranny, getr a 1 line or no line munci 4 speed, damn light as fuck and about bullet proof.
ran one of them in the race car too.
as for automatic, get a th-400
im not really interested in what to buy. just what the opinions on auto vs manuel are.
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If it is a trailer queen I would recommend the Auto.
it will never see a trailer. i think cars that have to be brought to the track are a waste of time and car. im building the car to be driven.
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Will the trans be stock or aftermarket?
What will the vehicle be used for, street or track?
What is the goal of the build, top speed or quick acceleration?
If the is 600hp, what will the gearing of the diff's be and what size, kind of tires are we talking about for traction.
it will have an aftermarket trans. it will be my daily driver but it will also be a track car. i want it to have a good top speed but i also want to accelerate quick. it wont get driven on the highway much, pretty much just local and the track.
as for the diff. we arent sure yet, we have to pretty much swap out the entire rear end so im not snapping axles off the line everytime i get on the gas.
im looking for answers in general. not necessarily a very specific answer. just whether your expierence was good with an auto or a manuel and if you had both which was better.
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first thing dont ask me about my car.
anyone who drive a chevy v8, i dont really want to hear about fords. but you guys can chime in cuz you will go through the same shit.
would you go with an automatic or a manuel transmission for a small block chevy motor ? it will be getting alot of upgrades maybe nos, turbos, not sure yet. but the goal is to have 600+ hp to the wheels. anyone who ever owned a manuel v8 how did the clutch last ?
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:IT&ih=020
200 for it all, and no i wont end the auction early to sell it for anything lower then 260.
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Can you get pics pf the components out of the box?
they look and work like new. ill try and get some tho.
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put a thin layer of rubber or foam sheet inbetween all your door bolts. just tightening them can still let some stuff rattle. just my .02
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i didnt think it would be so hard to get rid of these.
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any takers tonight ?
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too bad its not the newer btl with the different leads.
that sub is from december. when did they come out with new ones ?
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Engine Smoke
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
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lol. i flash ass whenever, whether im rite, wrong or my belt just wasnt tight enough. its good to let it breathe.