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Autruche

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Posts posted by Autruche

  4. How do you guys seal off your wall without damaging headliner?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Spray expanding foam into plastic sheeting or even plastic bags around the box, that way it won't leave any residue in the car. Watch it carefully to make sure it stays how you want it. Then trim it out and make it look nice with some wood. Use thick foam tape around the wood to make sure the wood doesn't leave any marks either. If there are significant spaces that need to be filled in, you may want to take some wood, like 2x4s, and build up around the front of the box before you apply the foam.

  6. Crossovers...?

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted · Edited by Autruche

    Buy a good head unit that has a built in active crossover. It can be difficult to find one that will support a 3 way active front stage though, so I suggest running your midrange and midbass together and use your amp's high pass/low pass filters to seperate them. The only pain with that is that most 2 or 4 channel amps have shit crossovers on them, that won't allow you to set the LPF higher than 150-250Hz.

    Here's how I have mine set up:

    Head unit: Sub: LPF - 63Hz

    Mids: HPF - 63Hz - LPF - 3.15kHz (midbass and midrange both receive signal from this output)

    Highs: HPF - 3.15kHz

    Amps: Sub: No LPF, SSF Off (set to 7Hz below box tuning, or to about 25Hz for most people)

    Midbass: No HPF, LPF - 315Hz

    Midrange: HPF - 315Hz, No LPF

    Tweeter: No filters

  7. This might be a bit noobish but...

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    for 1/0 a 300 amp fuse

    dont replace stock wires

    not necessary to buy new terminals, but makes it easier

    NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though.

    OP: Yes.

    Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see.

    Engine ground to battery negative.

    Battery negative to good body/chassis ground.

    If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal.

    With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery.

    Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals

    if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal.

  10. Shopping for my first car - Need input

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    Outbacks are nice. If you could accept a fwd, look at a Mazda 3 wagon. Thats my next car no doubt.

    If your title is right, rwd cars handle like balls in the snow. Manual fwd is the best combination in the snow.

    I disagree on that statement. For winter driving I much prefer (as much as it pains me to say) automatics. When you get into a situation where you need to rock the car, you'll get pissed quite fast in a manual.

  13. Good quality 0 gauge?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    SnowDrifter pretty much hit the nail on the head. CCA is about 66% as conductive as the same sized OFC wire would be. Knu may oversize their wire, but if it fits into a 2/0 lug, that's only proof that it still isn't good enough.

    OFC > CCA any day, every day

    Oh, and Knu doesn't have any OFC wire. Their "OFC" is tinned. Last time I checked, tin isn't copper and therefore it isn't OFC wire.

  18. Sub pops when i play it at low volume.....need help

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Try a different sub. Then you'll know whether it's the sub or the amp.

    I've seen it happen when people have had their subs wired ridiculously low, or the amp isn't getting good voltage. Try grounding it in a different spot.

    If it is an actual popping noise try to look at the coil if you can. You may have 'slinky'd' it and it is shorting out on itself.

  21. Difference in two designs

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Side port will use less wood, be smaller, and be simpler to build/design. Side port is usually louder (from personal experiences,) but can cause loading issues in high power applications.

    Center port uses more wood, will be slightly larger, and can be a bitch to build/design. Also, they are a bitch to put long ports in. They are usually not quite as loud, but there is no risk of loading problems as long as you put a large enough pair of 45s in the back where the port splits to help direct air flow.

    I love the look of center ports, but I love the simplicity and efficiency of the side port.

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