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About Autruche
- Birthday 03/31/1989
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Marinette, WI
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Interests
Getting loud under 30Hz.
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Yep, it's missing for me too. Another problem I've gotten was that on the main forum home page the recent topics section won't refresh properly. I keep getting the same topic showing up 3 or more times when new posts are made quickly in that topic. Refreshing always solves that problem, but the problem may actually be on my end.
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Spray expanding foam into plastic sheeting or even plastic bags around the box, that way it won't leave any residue in the car. Watch it carefully to make sure it stays how you want it. Then trim it out and make it look nice with some wood. Use thick foam tape around the wood to make sure the wood doesn't leave any marks either. If there are significant spaces that need to be filled in, you may want to take some wood, like 2x4s, and build up around the front of the box before you apply the foam.
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Buy a good head unit that has a built in active crossover. It can be difficult to find one that will support a 3 way active front stage though, so I suggest running your midrange and midbass together and use your amp's high pass/low pass filters to seperate them. The only pain with that is that most 2 or 4 channel amps have shit crossovers on them, that won't allow you to set the LPF higher than 150-250Hz. Here's how I have mine set up: Head unit: Sub: LPF - 63Hz Mids: HPF - 63Hz - LPF - 3.15kHz (midbass and midrange both receive signal from this output) Highs: HPF - 3.15kHz Amps: Sub: No LPF, SSF Off (set to 7Hz below box tuning, or to about 25Hz for most people) Midbass: No HPF, LPF - 315Hz Midrange: HPF - 315Hz, No LPF Tweeter: No filters
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NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though. OP: Yes. Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see. Engine ground to battery negative. Battery negative to good body/chassis ground. If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal. With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery. Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal.
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Oh it's mister "Biggest Car Audio Channel On Youtube." Last time I checked, having more videos than everyone else doesn't necessarily make your channel the 'biggest'