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Posts posted by Krazykid122
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1 hour ago, mbdblue said:
Your rear voltage shouldn't change a full 2 volts compared to the front. Sounds like you may be on the right path with your wiring. I would get another run of positive (and negative, unless you trust your frame grounds) from the front bat to the rear since 1/0 OFC is usually fused at 300 amps and your pulling more with that amp at 1/2; start from there. doesnt make sense to only have 1 run coming from the front battery to the back when you have 2 runs each going to the amp. Im wondering if your rear battery is choking cuz there's not enough current being provided from the front...thats probably whats causing the voltage difference...like others mentioned, the rear battery may also have an issue (possible dead cell?)
The sub smell issue may be an entirely different thing...what are the specs of the box?
well the voltage drop is probably whats causing the distortion right? its clipping because its not steady? the box is roughly 6 cubes tuned to 34hz, pretty big port i dont remember how much port area id have to measure it again.
how would i check for a dead cell? i really hope not its a $700 battery ugh.
i just recently got the single to dual 0ga inputs for the amp and alternator so I haven’t bought more to go from front to back yet
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1 hour ago, CstrokerV said:
whats the rep on that alt company? you can put as many runs to that rear battery as you want that doesnt seem like your issue your grounds might be bad and you don't realize it 2 runs should be fine unless you have shitty undersized wire maybe one of your batts is bad also
Pretty good from what I’ve found, they and mike singer work with each other from time to time too apparently. Both batts are good, all wire is either xs power or sundown ofc 1/0 and in the first page I said I cleaned every Ground and added two more. The voltage at the front is not bad like in the back as I’ve said like 6 times, the alt is fine!! Charging fine!! The power isnt getting to the back.
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30 minutes ago, Skullz said:
Are you going off the clipping light on your remote knob?
Removing the knob will solve your clipping issue. lol
Keep upping the volume until you begin to smell something, that is a sure fire way of knowing 1) it is clipping 2) new subs are breaking in, and smoke means your shit is about to die a horrible death.
Yes im going off the indicator on the knob but when I was using the dd1 to tune, when the dd1 distortion light would light up, then the knob would alittle after so that means that the indicator is atleast somewhat accurate right?
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1 hour ago, Ron36 said:
Your running all your mids off the deck , U would never hear them on 4K . Either way you need more batteries and a bigger ALT.
yes right now i am, surprisingly i can hear it, probably because im not getting the full power from the amp i always have the knob down because im scared imma blow it until i get all this figured out, i have a 4 channel but its not installed. so my 240 amp alt isnt good enough for 3k?
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1 hour ago, Skullz said:
Rewire the sub for 2 ohm and try that out and see if anything changes.
You have gone back through your wiring and connections, so it is worth a shot to see if something changes, cause if you can't go full tilt @.5 then 2 ohms should be louder and cleaner.
it was at 2 ohms before, and its not loud at all which is why i dropped it to .5, i guess i just need more than the one run of 0ga from front to back.
i have 2 audiopipe 1800s i had strapped at 2 ohms on this sub until i got the sundown for a great deal, but wiring it to 2 ohms on the sundown just isnt loud but then again i guess i could try because the first time i had it at 2 ohms on the sundown it wasnt tuned with a DD1. With the two batteries and 240 amp alternator i should be able to run it at .5. I was hesitant on hurting the amp and emailed sundown support to ask and they said with my electrical it shouldn't be a problem, i just need to fix voltage getting to the back apparently.
Voltage drop = distortion right? -
i added 3 runs of 4 ga with my 1 run of 0ga because thats all i had on hand untill i buy more 0ga, it stiffened the rear voltage up a little bit, now it barely gets to the high 12s mostly low 13s
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1 hour ago, Ron36 said:
Your probably pushing 4500 watts with that amp at .5. Your ALT and 2 batteries can’t handle that. I run at .67ohms and have a 250amp ALT and 6 batteries and that’s running 4K total with mid amps.I see low 13’s on voltage. Your not accounting for mid amp either. U need a bigger ALT and more batteries or increase your ohm load.
The 3k is the only amp, unless I misunderstood what you are saying, I’m sorry
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21 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said:
What driver are we talking about here? I didn't see any mention of it. But I didn't read everything well. As usual.
Edit- in fact, I see zero mention of the amp or driver being used. What gear are we talking about here?
in the very first post I mentioned my equipment is in my signature
1 Fi SP4 18" .v2
Sundown SCV3k @.5 Ohms
XS D3100 up front
Northstar SMS AGM 400 in the back
All XS Power 0ga OFC
240a Apex h/o alternator
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT HU
Dual 0ga runs from the alt to battery
Dual 0ga runs from battery to amp- 1
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37 minutes ago, DiBo said:
This^^^^^^^^^↑
I have stated what I have. Also what I have is in my signature. XsD3100 in front, the big ass North Star sms agm400 in the back, a 240a apex high output alternator, yes @.5 ohms. The voltage at the alternator and front battery at full tilt @2000 rpms is almost solid 14 at worst 13.8v it only gets that low at the amp. Which says the power is not getting from the front to back, so I’m asking how many runs of 0ga will be sufficient.
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1 hour ago, will77530 said:
Go buy a good ol fashion cd not a mixtape you and your boys made but a good ol fashion cd pop that bad boy in there and see if you have the same problem if not then your media source sucks all the balls
Even a store bought CD is the same result, but i believe i figured out its a voltage issue now, wiring.
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28 minutes ago, Ron36 said:
What’s your voltage reading during this, what ALT and how many batteries?
XS D3100 in front, Northstar SMS-AGM 400 in the rear, and i actually went out there to test the voltage after my last couple of replies. I put one DMM at the front battery, and one DMM at the amp, while the front didnt really drop below 13.8/14 while at full tilt @ 2k rpms the voltage at the amp got dangerously low, in the 12s.
So i cleaned up all my grounds in the front and rear, added a 2/0 from the alternator to the front battery so that makes a total of 4 grounds off the front battery, one going to the frame, one to the block, one to the alt, one to the body. I ran another run of 1/0 from the back battery - to the frame. Even though i have 2 runs of + and - from the back battery to the amp and 2+ runs from the alt to the front battery i only have 1 run of 0ga from front battery to back battery.
Do i need more runs from front to back, just one more? two more? for a total of 3? same amount of grounds to match? seems power is now the issue. -
1 minute ago, will77530 said:
You say it was flat for tuning did you turn things up after tuning
No down, 40hz and 80hz on the hu eq all the way down, I actually tried tuning the amp with the eq like that first just to see the difference from flat and all the way down and I could turn the hu all the way to 40/40 with no distortion unlike a when flat, but I still use 36 as max volume.
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1 minute ago, will77530 said:
Where was your bass knob set when you did this turned all the way up?
and your treble and bass in the deck where were those set and did you change them after?
everything was flat for tuning bass knob all the way up
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15 minutes ago, CstrokerV said:
his electrical isn't up to par with running at .5 ohms in my opinion ...... what was your setting at where was the knob at when setting with the dd-1
bass knob was all the way up, The alternator company and The Amp Lab where i got it said my electrical is okay for the 3k @.5 and the voltage is pretty stable, im going to go back out and check over everything really good with a DMM.
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34 minutes ago, will77530 said:
Well what track did you use to set everything with the dd-1
track 5 for the compromise of loud and SQ
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So i tuned my system with the DD1 and CC1, and my amplifiers bass knob clip led still lights up a good bit saying im clipping whenever i turn the system up to normal listening volume (36/40) and turn the bass knob halfway up or more , if any less it just doesn't really beat that hard. I know the led on the knob is not very accurate, but when tuning with the DD1, the distortion led would light up before the bass knobs clipping led, so i know if the bass knob is lit then it has to be distorting, or im assuming at least. I was told that since my music source is from my iPhone Via USB and the test tracks were on CD that could be it, so i loaded all the tracks to my phone and tuned everything with the audio source being my phone through USB, no difference.
I cant figure out why im still clipping and making the woofer smelly with proper electrical and tuning with the DD1, its like there is no distortion while tuning but as soon as i hook the woofer up and play it does, Ive got to be doing something wrong.
If i left out any info needed ill add whatever is needed, thank you!
Equipment is in signature -
Batteries came in today. WIll be back up for sale tomorrow
was just about to ask about the XP2000 lol!
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how do you get a promo code to get the discount?
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I am going to hook up 4 blue LED strips from auto zone to a blue rocker switch with 16 ga. knukonceptz speaker wire. do i need a fuse, and if i do what size would i need?
thanks!
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Don't waste your money on those bass blockers. They are nothing but overpriced capacitors. Find a 8 micro farad capacitor and put it in line with your tweeter and you have the same thing just many times cheaper
Edit: here's how much cheaper.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-338
how do you know what cuts off around 5k?
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I have an Alpine CDA-117 with some alpine tweeters, they are running off the head unit. i have a 4 channel running my door speakers. does my parametric eq on the stereo effect the 4 channel pre-outs on the HU? if it does i guess i should just get the blockers. right?
Tweeters
http://www.sonicelec...e-SPS-1005.html
Bass Blockers
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Figure out the amp draw of the inverter and use an appropriately rated relay. By using the relay you wont need 8 gauge wires for the toggle switch.
how would i hook 8ga up to the relay? those are some nice sized cables, and i cant find 8ga disconnects.
Still distorting/burning sub after tuning with dd1/cc1
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted · Edited by Krazykid122
you probably were pushing clean power though right? i believe its distorting because the drop