[new product - "Distortion Detector"..NEW PICS page 22 Video Update page 26]

sign me up, steve you could sells these big time btw, great idea! perfect for work too, the main thing is having it be really accurate when it gets to even minimal clipping, and it would be perfect to have a disk with it for the test tones, you don't know how excited I am for this

EDIT, Steve Also just an idea, if you could have 1 set of RCA in's on it so that way you could test to see when your deck clips, that way you can set your deck clipping, and then do your amp clipping, and then your perfectly set!!or even if it was an adapter that goes on the end of the leads, also removable leads would be awesome just incase they get damaged, which happens, just some ideas, I seriously can not wait for this!

[Getting pretty annoyed with my bank. Any advice?]

This is why I have an AMEX card, you pay for everything, and I mean everything I buy ever on that, then just pay the bill at the end of each month, or early if you want. Two clicks. They do not have to wait to see if you have funds, they just give you the money. You can get a free card from them, plus a lot of there cards give you a free 1 year extended warranty on anything you buy, and some give you 90 day theft and damage protection, which is sweet. The main thing is spend only what you know you have and pay it off and your set, no damn bank overages to worry about. Plus Direct deposit helps too, but the thing I hate then is you don't get to see how many hours you put in unless you spend extra time to check, which sucks!

[Power wire and fuses]

Thanks Jay, I recommended 1/0 to him as I have never readily seen 2 gauge for sale.

It is readily available, it's called "the install bay" "0 gauge" on ebay, lol.

But seriously, you just need to run wire that can take the power those amps need, I'd go with real 0 gauge, fuse accordingly at 200-250 amps by the battery, and use a distribution block to bring it down to 4 gauge for both of the amps, and fuse them accordingly.

Also, while you're at getting the right wire and fuses and fuse blocks, get an extra fuse and block and some extra wire and do the big three.

These are good fuse blocks, I use them all the time, cheap and combined shipping ftw: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300417204547&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#shId

Need some cheap ass terminals too? check here: http://impulse-electronics.com/terminals_splices.aspx?sub_key=&id=91&cat_nm=10&key=Eyelet%20Terminals

I bookmarked that site, those terminals hit the spot pricewise. I just ordered 12 0/1 gauge terminals from KNU, about 1.75 a pop, but they are nice ones too, I got a great deal on there wire, and free shipping. A couple days after I bought it the wire went up like 50 cents a foot

[Power wire and fuses]

This is for all the people who do not understand fusing.

As of now, ignore what your amps need for a fuse, you need to have a fuse up by the battery that is designed for the wire that is carrying the load back to the amp. If the amp takes 500 amps of power to run, but the wire is only Capable of 125 amps, you DO NOT PUT A 500 AMP Fuse up by the battery (if you can find a fuse that big). You would put a ~120 amp fuse, the fuse in the front is designed so you do not end up with a pile of ash as your car has now burned to the ground. If your amps need more power then your wire, then you need to either do one of 2 things

1. Upgrade the wire to take the load, go to 1/0 gauge wire from 4 gauge

or

2. Play your music at a lower volume so you do not blow the fuse.

As you increase the amount of amperage through the wire, the wire will naturally heat up and this also brings causes the resistance to go up slightly as the wire is pushing more current through it. If the wire is to small the wire will melt the casing, then short out the battery, and cause 1000+ amps to push through the wire, if you have the fuse in the front you will only damage the wire before the fuse, and nothing else as long as the fuse was the right size and the fuse popped before the wire started to melt the casing.

Now the fuses that the amps have in them are for protecting them. This is a decent way to figure out what size wire you need. If your amp has a 100 amp fuse, and you have another amp with a 150 amp fuse, then you need a wire that can allow 250 amps of power at its maximum. You would then buy 1/0 gauge wire, fuse it to what it is rated, and you will have the limitation removed. Now it is up to the cars battery and alternator to supply the current and that depends on your setup and whether you will even be able to get enough current to the amps.

Battery+++++++Fuse+++++++++++++++++++(Amp Fuse)+++Amp-----------Ground

|_XS_POWER|-------[120]--------------------------------------------[100][KICKER ZX ]--------[]O

Also something else to think about, depending on what brand of wire, you have to fuse accordingly, if you have some KNU Kolossal 4 gauge wire then you fuse it at 120 amps, if you have some cheap off brand crap wire that comes with a 60 amp fuse, but claims to be 4 gauge, you fuse it at 60 amps, as it is underspec, and you got cheap wire. It is not hard.

FOR THOSE WITH NO FUSE IN FRONT - Go out to your car now, and disconnect your power wire to your amp right NOW! All it takes is that wire to short, which means the end of it hitting a ground, or the wire casing getting cut into and shorting somewhere else. I would hate to see you on the news because your car blew up like a bomb, it is not pretty.

Anyways, those are my 2 cents for the night. There is even more I can cover on this, such as grounds and that. Electricity is known to have a flow with the electrons moving, which happens to be from ground back to positive. Many people think of it as positive to negative, and there are 2 theories on this, but the most accepted and recent one is negative to positive, as the electrons flow. So in that mannor, always have your ground wire the same if not bigger then the positive, and please for the love of God remove the paint before you ground it. I could ramble on more about grounding spots, but i'll save that for anther time. Car audio is about learning and having fun while doing it. But i dont think learning about fusing after the fact (Car burns down) would be much fun

[Switch from viper 5900 to 5902???]

h1 harness with parkings lights, door triggers, etc... is the only one that is the same. The rest of the harnesses and antenna are different.

I can confirm this also,

I would be leary of that 5902. It is might expensive to replace that transmitter if you accidentally do her in and the battery life is

How is the battery life crappy, I charge mine and go a month on it before hooking it up again overnight, thats nothing, I can live with that, heck I plug my cell phone in every night. The only issue with the 5902 is that you carry a almost 200 dollar key fob around that is a theft issue on its own, ha ha, but it is really really really cool what it can do

[2010 Holiday Group Buy: Current Discount 15% and includes the new HF1215 charger!]

wondering if anyone knows, so I got my d3100, and it wont fit in the front, so I am gonna put it in the back, and ordered a d3400 for the front now. My question is will my 120amp alt be enough for these 2 batteries, I dont want to ruin them, I know it can charge them, but will I end up ruining them. I drive a 99 dodge grand caravan and am having a hard time finding a good alternator for it that will let me really push some high amps out of it

[$91 Viper 5701 2 way car alarm & remote starter]

I would buy that but I need the damn bypass system? Every one around here wants over 200 dollars for just the bypass system, not including installation. I have a viper system sitting in my room waiting to be installed haha

Thats a lot for a bypass, most are about 100 dollars or less, like the pkall, xk06, or the flcan. I think your truck can use the xk06, they are pretty cheap, I would look it up first, we have had sucess with the flcan too from flash-it.com

[2010 Holiday Group Buy: Current Discount 15% and includes the new HF1215 charger!]

Nate, I just sent you an email regarding my batteries... =(

Email returned. UPS will take care of it for you after you give them a call. When they throw a 79lb battery around or drop it off the back of a truck there is not a lot we can do. Everything will be taken care of though. Sorry they damaged your battery, but we will have a replacement to you shortly after you get us the tracking info.

I sent you an email too Nathan regarding UPS destroying the box and damaging the battery, after they delivered it to the wrong house I heard them throw it back in the truck, not the best thing to do with a huge battery.

That's what my packaging looked like, that's after I cleaned out all the Styrofoam that had turned to dust basically. I don't like UPS

[kicker door speakers]

ummm like what siteee...

I have ordered a lot of stuff from www.audiosavings.com, about 1800 dollars worth of stuff, otherwise ebay, lots of the bigger sites will post stuff on ebay, brand new with warrenty, and then you have the coverage from ebay, so just read around on there, what size speakers do you need?

[Mids and highs look inside]

Im working on keeping my car all kicker so that could be why? lmao but didnt really help me out to be honest.

how is the 5.25 KS, are you running it on an amp? I need a 5.25 for my fronts, and have a 650.4 to power them. Does the 5.25 push enough. I am looking for amazing mids, I already have amazing bass, but want something that can reach to the bass so there is no gap between bass and highs

[Mids and highs look inside]

i would stay with kicker ks series mids/highs i have them and they sound great and clear even my friend admitted they sound better the his rockford fosgate mids/highs he had in his hummer

I have the Kicker KS6930 for my rear, hooked up to to a Kicker ZX650.4, sounds AMAZING. I got the 650.4 on ebay via audiosavings, and it was 239, brand new, 2 year warrenty, I have bought all my stuff from them, 2 kicker cvx 15's, and a kicker zx 1500.1, and the kicker zx650.4. Amazing company, best prices. I dont know what to do for my fronts, I heard the KS5250 is a bit lacking, but its a 5.25 inch, and I might get the Componet RS56.2, which is from like 2003, but can take 90 watts rms a piece, vs 45rms, so I dont really know, I am doing an all kicker setup also. I have to say the 6x9 3 way sounds F**ING AMAZING, like it hits so hard and is so clear!!!