J-Lane
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Posts posted by J-Lane
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OK, so from being on this site I have learned a whole lot from a lot of people but I have a question on an enclosure for my friends dad. He has a 4 Runner and he is going to get a sub from a friend of his. It's a Pioneer TS-W3001D4. I know that it is recommended that the sub face up and the port face the back of the vehicle however he uses the vinyl cover that hides his stuff in the cargo area. Should I still have the sub facing up? I'm sure its going to cause some problems if he has it pulled over the sub and he said he doesn't want to leave it open. Any suggestions?
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I have an FI Q 15 also and I'm also pushing 600 rms to it. I went with the larger box but I tuned low because I like the lows. It sounds awesome for only 600 rms. Just curious, what kind of vehicle are you putting it in?
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Must have been installed by cartoys.
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I like that sub but it's got way more power than I want. It's what like a 800-1000rms sub, I'm looking for like around 250-300rms.
I have an FI Q15 and I'm only throwing 600 RMS at it and the thing pounds. Like the other people have posted the big factor is going to be the enclosure that you use. I also like the really low end bass and I tuned my enclosure to 28 Hz.
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OK. I have only seen one Horn loaded design that fits well in a vehicle and unfortunately you will still need a fair amount of room for this thing. A friend of mine had a Suburban that he wanted to build a horn loaded design for and he found this design. It is actually not too hard to build if you have some box building experience. The thing that blew me away is that he had two Pioneer 10's that he was using for this box. I have never liked Pioneer subs because well if you have ever heard them you would know why. After we put this box in his car he played all kinds of music from Rap to Rock to Jazz and this thing hit so solid and still hit extreme lows I couldn't believe it. It was unreal how loud it could get while still producing excellent sound quality. The plans are free to download. Check it out. FYI don't do the smaller version. It doesn't sound good at all.
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I use Room EQ Wizard. It does Waterfall Plots, RTA, SPL etc... Its a cool program and you cant beat the price, FREE! I suggest useing an external Mic that is made for measuring but it will still work without one it just wont be very accurate. The only thing is you have to register for the forum at Home Theater Shack to download it.
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Watch this video about soulja boy and you will be cracking up. Watch the whole thing.
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Are any of them handmade? Fi's are right?
Do they come with a warranty by any chance? Just curious u know?
Yep, they (Fi) are all handmade and you can customize them a little as well. All of their subs have a warranty except the BTL line.
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"Yeah, the SSD 15 is $199 before shipping. I haven't heard those personally but I hear they are a decent sub as well."
I'm considering RE audio, DC audio, and AQ aswell ..
Just haven't decided how much I wanna spend and which sub will perform the best .. I'm so troubled haha
You have a hard decision because those are all good brands. Good luck.
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I can spend more, but was just looking for any decently priced subs that are good quality and can handle the 1000wrms I'm gonna feed them
Edit:
What about Fi SSD 15 .. Arent Those are $200 ~
Can Fi SSD handle 1000wrms?
Yeah, the SSD 15 is $199 before shipping. I haven't heard those personally but I hear they are a decent sub as well.
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An Fi Q15 is $288 shipped. That's what I'm using and I have been very happy with it.
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i thought that too. but if it was wouldnt the alt not be able to keep the voltage up at full tilt. i mean it dont drop below 15.4v. thats with headlights on high beams and ac on full blast. if it was going bad dont u think it would drop instantaneously from 15.6v to Bat resting voltage? it barely even budges. with what i thought would be a hell of a load.
Not necessarily. As far as I know it can go either way. The problem is if you continue to push higher voltage like that it could damage your battery.
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Your voltage regulator may be going bad. On really old cars they are an external device but on newer cars it's part of the internal workings of the alternator. You may want to have it looked at.
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Never messed with the HU so it's not that.
Are you running all your equipment off your factory head unit? If you are, I would guess that you are using a high to line level converter. I would check that as well to verify there are no loose wires (some of them can create alot of noise too). I think you might be right though as for the RCA's being the issue. I broke one of my RCA's years ago by pulling too hard and I broke the wires internally. I didn't realize it till I tested everything and I had this weird feedback/whining kind of noise.
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Before ripping out all the RCA's and replacing them. See if you have a set of RCA's and run them from the deck to the amp and see if the problem still exists. How is the head unit grounded? I know that sometimes if you use the factory head unit ground it is usually insufficient. You should try to ground it to the frame as well. It sounds like a ground loop issue the way you are describing the sound. Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Thanks! Downloading it now.
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ok so the rcas are off a rockford wiring kit so i cant say i think i can get better rcas lol then they runing on an opposite side of the car from the power so thats good mmmm as far as tuning been threw that havent got it to not distort now whats an oscope???
and i guess next thing to do since errything is brand new is to go get another 4 channel amp and hook it up see if its the amp thats messed up cus i doubt the rfs are they just look too sexy to be messed up lol
anyother idead tho is there anything else that could distort it??
Here is the way to set your amplifier gains with an o-scope. Some people claim you can do it with a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) but an oscilloscope is your best bet.
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Haven't heard RE but I have an Fi Q15 that sounds awesome. I know it's the sound quality line but they still put out an immense amount of bass and I run them all day while I'm driving and they handle it well.
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I Like anything around 28-32 Hz but it's all about personal preference. If you are looking to go loud you will probably want to stay around 35-40. I chose 28 Hz for my Fi Q15 and I am very happy with the outcome.
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For some reason I thought that you couldnt really play anything below tuning frequency lol. But thanks for clearing that up for me guys. I dont have a system yet, nor care even, but I plan on getting one very soon as well as a system. Btw im loving this forum, the amount of information on here is incredible! Im stil reading lots and gaining information on car audio.
It's not that you can't play below the tuned frequency, just that the speaker will not be as efficient below the tuned frequency. The speaker will likely need to work a lot harder to reproduce frequencies below the tuned frequency so you should be careful to not cause the speaker to bottom out. The vehicle acoustics can also play a large part in the way it sounds as well.
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ill update the status tomorrow, maybe the hand of God will come down and fix it... im hopin. Thanks again fer the help so far. peace.
You mentioned that you placed the car in neutral earlier to move the car. I had a car that had an issue once because of the switch that requires the car to be in park before you could start the car was not quite activated. Try shifting out of park and then back into park and see if that helps. It's a long shot but you never know. Good luck!
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Get an Fi.
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what was the sub level on the deck at? on alpines if it isnt all the way up then its taking away signal. so 15 is really like 0 and 0 is -15.
i forgot to mention, when you do your mids/highs use the lowest tone you want them to play. if you set it at 1khz you will see clipping around 300hz and below. maybe sooner. i have a video showing this on the scope. eighty-100hz would be a good tone to use.
Cool
! Thank you for that bit of info about the sub level. I was kind of curious about that because with it set to 0 it just seemed like it was real weak. I also didn't know about using a lower frequency for gain settings on the highs. Well in meades video his stereo clipped just short of being turned all the way up. My buddys can be turned all the way up without sending a clipped single.
OK, I was wondering if maybe something was wrong with my head unit or something.
Thank you all that replied for the help!! stevemeadedesigns.com and it's members are the SHIT!! Thanks again! -
Hook up your oscope to the RCAs running to your amp and play the test tone till your single clips, slowly increasing the volume, if it dont clip and you have it cranked all the way up then you HU wont be sending a clipped single. If it does start to clip, note what volume it starts to clip at and make a mental note not to turn it up past that. Then set you amp gains accordingly
Is it normal for a head unit to not clip the signal at all? I would expect it to at some point.
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Thank you all that replied for the help!! stevemeadedesigns.com and it's members are the SHIT!! Thanks again!
4 Runner Enclosure
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Anyone?