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J-Lane

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Everything posted by J-Lane

  1. This is what I use for my daily driver. It's works great and I have ran it at full tilt for quite a while and it barely gets warm. Btw, you can find them for around 350-400.
  2. So have you removed it from the box to check to make sure a wire didn't come loose? While you have it out of the box, use a DMM to check coil resistance too.
  3. I've never been a fan of IB set ups. Like you said, a lot of work to seal the trunk and I've never cared much for the quality of the bass you get.
  4. LOL!! What a dumb ass. So he thinks a bigger box = louder? and here we all are buying bigger subs and more powerful amps and all we needed was a bigger box.
  5. Can't beat Parts Express. Check it out here.
  6. I've been into car audio since I was about 14 and I'm 34 now and I have learned more in the last couple of years from this site than I could even imagined.
  7. No such thing as a dumb question (usually ). All joking aside, your best bet is to search the forum for setting amplifier gains. Steve has some great videos on how to do this on you tube. Really it's going to save you a TON of money to buy a DD-1 and follow the directions. Good luck!
  8. Lol, I did this.. This isnt my first time hooking one up. Hmmmm... I'm not sure what else it could be then. Was the old head unit hooked up the same way? Did you have any problems with any settings on the previous head unit?
  9. You need to find two wires behind your head unit. One of them is going to have constant power and the other will only turn on when the key is on or in the acc position. The yellow should have constant power. The red should be connected to the wire that is only on when the key is on or in the acc position. You can use a DMM to locate the correct wires by connecting the DMM black lead to vehicle ground and connect the DMM red lead to the existing wires that went to your old head unit to locate the constant and switched wires. Note: its usually easiest to buy the wiring harness for your vehicle from Crutchfield of your local Car audio supply store so you can just hook it up to the harness and plug it in the factory wiring. Then you can also reinstall the old head unit if you ever sell the vehicle.
  10. First thing I thought of too. Check these wires and make sure the yellow has power at all times (even when the key is off).
  11. Once a year I go in and back up all my files to an external drive and then wipe my hard drive with DBAN and then reinstall Windows and copy all my files back onto the computer. I noticed over time my computer always starts to run slower so I have been doing this for the last several years and it seems to help keep it from having the issue of slowing down. Here is the link to DBAN. (Darik's Boot And Nuke)
  12. That's crazy! I have never seen anything like that! I would have got in my car and cranked up the subs and shook the ice off! LOL
  13. OK, so just an update. I just finished the box. I think it turned out OK but I don't care much for how the carpet turned out. It's 2 cu. ft. after displacement tuned to 31 Hz. I also did 45's in the port and it's 28 square inches so there shouldn't be any port noise. I won't be able to hear it till this weekend but hopefully it will sound OK. I'm not a fan of Pioneer but maybe it will surprise me.
  14. Thanks to all of you for the help. Now I have one more question but I'm pretty sure I know the answer. He plans on using this Pioneer TS-W3001D4 for a while and then upgrade to something like an Fi Q12. He doesn't want to have to have a new box made so he wants a box that he can use the Pioneer in and then switch to the Fi later. Pioneer recommends .5 - 1 cu. ft. but Fi recommends 1.8 - 2.5 cu. ft. Is there any way the Pioneer would sound OK in a box designed to the Fi specs? I know it probably would sound like crap but he wanted me to check if its possible. Thanks in advance for the help.
  15. Cool, thank you. That's all I needed to know.
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