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tomypg

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Posts posted by tomypg

  7. What went wrong?

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    What's Your input voltage from your headunit on the rcas? Your amp stage may be tryin to draw to much power that the powersupply can handle. But I shall wait for wise boon before I get caught spouting shit.

  14. Common speaker noises and grounding issues answered

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    when i switched from a mechman alt to a DC power alt i got less noise lol. you never know what its going to be, even spark plugs can make a difference. ive also noticed any time RCAs are coiled up they make noise.

    and OP, the 1st set of RCAs i used were cheapy $5 RCAs and i had very little noise. "upgraded" to knukoncepts and i got more noise. battled it a little then recently "upgraded" to stinger and got more noise lol. each upgrade had better/more shielding than the last. explain that lol.

    Changing from mechman to DC you probably got a much more regulated DC power supply, causing less noise. Possibly look at the grounding on your HeadUnit. And check how the RCA's are grounded to the Head Unit. Check it with a multi meter/continuity tester and check the actual ground of te headunit, you may need to ground the case for some more shielding.

  15. Common speaker noises and grounding issues answered

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by tomypg

    Dont take this the wrong way PLEASE :pardon: , but your answers are somewhat correct, but really there are other reasons and fixes for the ever popular "Engine noise" I myself have been fighting this issue for 6 months and really have only helped it a little, but it is still there. I have all my grounds (8 total) going to either the frame of my truck, or to my front batt, and still have this engine hiss that is killing me. I have made sure all my grounds are on the same side of the trucks frame, etc.... New HU, new RCA's, new this, new that, and still cant get rid of this engine noise... THere has to be other answers for this issue. But really nice of you to try to help people here, that is always a plus :yahoo:

    Not making you sound dumb, but I had the same problem and it was my front right speaker and the left tweeter connections where touching the frame when I stuck it in. Just check that, if you already have then don't worry :)

    EDIT: Tell me some of these other ones and I will add it, or you can add it if you can edit my post, be good to get most of them in one place and sticky it or something.

  17. Common speaker noises and grounding issues answered

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by tomypg

    Okay, thought I would make a thread showing most of the common problems with grounding and engine noise in speakers/subs. I will quote some of the most common types of problems that people have had on the forum and seem to pop up the most. If anyone has anything to add, please feel free to PM me and I will add it on, with credit to you. Getting kinda sick of the same Questions over and over again, I don't mind answering it, but I want something fresh to answer, not the same old.

    If you have just installed an amp, look at how you have run your RCA's and speaker wire. They may interfere with the cars electronic wires from the electromagnetic forces that may occur, all those these are small, an amp will amplify the RCA input and make it horrible.

    First one -

    “I just installed (Insert Speaker) When I turn my car on and notice that the speakers are picking up the engine's noise. When I rev it gets louder and whines to the car as I rev also, and when I use my lights or indicators it gets worse”

    Answer - there could be a few things going on here:

    1. When you installed your speakers and pushed then into the mounts, the terminals on the speaker may be touching the frame of the car, mostly everything in your car is ground to the chassis, hence the noise changes with the car

    2. Your amps ground is bad, i.e seat belt grounding or you didn’t sand back the paint/rust on your vehicle or you did not ground to a structural part of the car.

    3. Your RCA’s are mega crappy, either they are not any good at the connections (i.e use of the cheaper home RCA’s, seems they don’t fit very good), test with another set first though, I have this problem a lot with my stereo, when I turn my RCA’s a certain way they work, otherwise the worst engine noise ever.

    4. Your Head Units ground is very bad, cause bad signal feed, check with a continuity tester or multi meter, this is usually the last thing you would need to check.

    “I just swapped over my amp to a new one, and now I get very bad engine noise whenever I am driving, I haven’t changed any of the speakers or wiring just swapped it over, what is wrong?”

    Answer – Again points from above still apply,

    1. Your amps ground is bad, i.e seat belt grounding or you didn’t sand back the paint/rust on your vehicle or you did not ground to a structural part of the car.

    2. Your RCA’s are mega crappy, either they are not any good at the connections (i.e use of the cheaper home RCA’s, seems they don’t fit very good), test with another set first though, I have this problem a lot with my stereo, when I turn my RCA’s a certain way they work, otherwise the worst engine noise ever.

    “Can I just ground my amp/battery to the frame or should I run some 1/0 from my front battery to the back?”

    Answer – You can always just ground to the frame, make sure the paint is sanded of and it is not just a beauty panel, you need to ground to a structural piece or a piece well connected to one, otherwise the ground to the battery up front will have too much resistance. This is where I ALLWAYS RECOMMEND THE BIG III, whenever you are grounding to the cars body/chassis, always do the big III, Or at least upgrade the battery to chassis ground with the same gauge you grounded the back with… Most of the time you can run one 4 channel of the standard body to battery ground. There is no point grounding to the body when all you have is 8 AWG from the front battery to the car.

    Now, running wire front to back will ensure much better flow and less resistance, so for high powered set ups, I say always run wire for the ground, with a ratio of 1:1 to power..

    “My amp gets really hot when playing music for a while, even at half volume”

    Answer – I won’t go into Ohm loading and such cause this is for grounds, but check that first. Make sure the ground is a good one, i.e sanding back and bolting tightly in a good place. Also check your power wire and make sure it can carry enough current to supply the amp, feel if it is warm or not, and also check the speaker wire.

    Just remember to ground your stuff properly and then you can rule most of these problems out!

    If I find any more common questions etc, or if you guys do, please PM about it and I will add it.

  19. newbie help

    in SQ - SOUND QUALITY

    Posted

    Ported will be louder and better on low low notes, depending on your tuning.

    Sealed is more tight bass, alot better for rock music and metal I believe, ported will be better for big ass bass notes from rap and hip hop.

  22. battery/ / alternator

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    im runing a 4 gauge that splits to 8 gauge for the sound ordance and 4 gauge to teh rockford but when i get teh new 1500bd mos tlikely ill run the 4 gauge soley to it and run another 8 gauge from the battery to the sound ordance

    what is the big 3? and when u say i should run 1/0 gauge u mean to everything or just form alt to battery?

    and if u guys could help me in choosing certain products or even pointing me at good brand names for this stuff... thanks

    and just for knowledge what do you mean voltage up to par??

    Replace the 4 Gauge to the back with 1/0 gauge.

    Then you can split into 4 and 8, much better current flow and less risk of melting wire as Kranny had said.

    Watch EXO COntralto's Big 3 video, It has been posted above.

    1/0 from alt to positive battery, 1/0 from chassis to engine block, 1/0 from battery ground to chassis and finally 1/0 to your distrobution block please :)

    Products such as Rockford Fosgate wiring, Knu COncepts wiring and kicker wire are good products to look at.

    Voltage up to par he means: your voltage drop is not bad enough to A) decrease performance or B) Damage shit.

  23. battery/ / alternator

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Obviously a H/O alternator would be the best for your electrical system, how ever, as mentioned do the big 3, this helps the most and is the cheapest. Next get a decent Dry Cell battery, such as XS Power or Kinetic up the front of your car, replace that old firestone. And run 0 AWG wire to your trunk, or wherever the amps are. This will ensure the least amount of voltage drop and current lost in cabling.

  25. Voltage drop

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    I run 11 flat for hours, cruising up and down town. So long as you are as close to twelve as you can go I would be happy. I would worry with more of the high powered amps or expensive amps with under 12, but most of the cheaper amps are made for retards who wouldn't even check there voltage, so you can run lower. Of course you are loosing power....

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