tomypg

Make sure both subs are inphase. Are they series or parallel?

You néeD to dissasemble the iPod to check it. The jck may need replacing

YeS

Think of all the ways you can spend you money, make little systems and then price them up only to throw them in the trash along with the rest of your hopes and dreams..... Failing that go to photoshopfails.blogspot.com Good for a laugh

I said it could be his electrical.

Overheated I guess, either clipping or power supply can't keep up with the levels you had it at. Did u use a dmm or osillyscope to set it up?

What's Your input voltage from your headunit on the rcas? Your amp stage may be tryin to draw to much power that the powersupply can handle. But I shall wait for wise boon before I get caught spouting shit.

Possible blowen input caps? Maybe your electrical. Boon will know

At least another battery in the back with the big 3. Then for a more stable system get a new alt.

god dayum, thats alot of subs...

Haha, looking sick bro! Sounds good in the vid. Can't wait for you to stick a vid of it in the trunk! And doing glass in a box is easy, so no need to worry.

Make sure your speaker terminals arnt hitting the frame of the car when you push them in.

Nearly sold my ESP eclipse and boustrophedon an ibanez s prestige s570 and an rg7 string with the money. Needs find another buyer haha. Luckily I know the importer of ibanez into nz. Mega cheap guitars at cost... And to the mods, just make a little sub sub forum to the tunes section? Like as musicians?

Changing from mechman to DC you probably got a much more regulated DC power supply, causing less noise. Possibly look at the grounding on your HeadUnit. And check how the RCA's are grounded to the Head Unit. Check it with a multi meter/continuity tester and check the actual ground of te headunit, you may need to ground the case for some more shielding.

Not making you sound dumb, but I had the same problem and it was my front right speaker and the left tweeter connections where touching the frame when I stuck it in. Just check that, if you already have then don't worry EDIT: Tell me some of these other ones and I will add it, or you can add it if you can edit my post, be good to get most of them in one place and sticky it or something.

There are allways going to be the few ones that I havent or cant answer, but this is mainly for the most common questions, I just want to help people instead of them having to wait for an answer, they can just see what the most commen types of fix are.

Okay, thought I would make a thread showing most of the common problems with grounding and engine noise in speakers/subs. I will quote some of the most common types of problems that people have had on the forum and seem to pop up the most. If anyone has anything to add, please feel free to PM me and I will add it on, with credit to you. Getting kinda sick of the same Questions over and over again, I don't mind answering it, but I want something fresh to answer, not the same old. If you have just installed an amp, look at how you have run your RCA's and speaker wire. They may interfere with the cars electronic wires from the electromagnetic forces that may occur, all those these are small, an amp will amplify the RCA input and make it horrible. First one - Answer - there could be a few things going on here: 1. When you installed your speakers and pushed then into the mounts, the terminals on the speaker may be touching the frame of the car, mostly everything in your car is ground to the chassis, hence the noise changes with the car 2. Your amps ground is bad, i.e seat belt grounding or you didn’t sand back the paint/rust on your vehicle or you did not ground to a structural part of the car. 3. Your RCA’s are mega crappy, either they are not any good at the connections (i.e use of the cheaper home RCA’s, seems they don’t fit very good), test with another set first though, I have this problem a lot with my stereo, when I turn my RCA’s a certain way they work, otherwise the worst engine noise ever. 4. Your Head Units ground is very bad, cause bad signal feed, check with a continuity tester or multi meter, this is usually the last thing you would need to check. Answer – Again points from above still apply, 1. Your amps ground is bad, i.e seat belt grounding or you didn’t sand back the paint/rust on your vehicle or you did not ground to a structural part of the car. 2. Your RCA’s are mega crappy, either they are not any good at the connections (i.e use of the cheaper home RCA’s, seems they don’t fit very good), test with another set first though, I have this problem a lot with my stereo, when I turn my RCA’s a certain way they work, otherwise the worst engine noise ever. Answer – You can always just ground to the frame, make sure the paint is sanded of and it is not just a beauty panel, you need to ground to a structural piece or a piece well connected to one, otherwise the ground to the battery up front will have too much resistance. This is where I ALLWAYS RECOMMEND THE BIG III, whenever you are grounding to the cars body/chassis, always do the big III, Or at least upgrade the battery to chassis ground with the same gauge you grounded the back with… Most of the time you can run one 4 channel of the standard body to battery ground. There is no point grounding to the body when all you have is 8 AWG from the front battery to the car. Now, running wire front to back will ensure much better flow and less resistance, so for high powered set ups, I say always run wire for the ground, with a ratio of 1:1 to power.. Answer – I won’t go into Ohm loading and such cause this is for grounds, but check that first. Make sure the ground is a good one, i.e sanding back and bolting tightly in a good place. Also check your power wire and make sure it can carry enough current to supply the amp, feel if it is warm or not, and also check the speaker wire. Just remember to ground your stuff properly and then you can rule most of these problems out! If I find any more common questions etc, or if you guys do, please PM about it and I will add it.

Had to reply to the dude aye. Hahaha, good shit.

Ported will be louder and better on low low notes, depending on your tuning. Sealed is more tight bass, alot better for rock music and metal I believe, ported will be better for big ass bass notes from rap and hip hop.

Yhe water in the carpet may condensate into the well underneath... there might be water leaking from other places... Do you have a sunroof? Somemtimes they have pipes that lead backwards for draining. Failing that, you can drill a drainage whole.

No need to run a switch, if you have two good batteries you could bump for HOURS and still start, I have done it with two batteries, head lights on for 3 hours, started right up. Positive to Positive, then ground the the Chassis or run another ground wire.

Replace the 4 Gauge to the back with 1/0 gauge. Then you can split into 4 and 8, much better current flow and less risk of melting wire as Kranny had said. Watch EXO COntralto's Big 3 video, It has been posted above. 1/0 from alt to positive battery, 1/0 from chassis to engine block, 1/0 from battery ground to chassis and finally 1/0 to your distrobution block please Products such as Rockford Fosgate wiring, Knu COncepts wiring and kicker wire are good products to look at. Voltage up to par he means: your voltage drop is not bad enough to A) decrease performance or Damage shit.

Obviously a H/O alternator would be the best for your electrical system, how ever, as mentioned do the big 3, this helps the most and is the cheapest. Next get a decent Dry Cell battery, such as XS Power or Kinetic up the front of your car, replace that old firestone. And run 0 AWG wire to your trunk, or wherever the amps are. This will ensure the least amount of voltage drop and current lost in cabling.

Your voltage is very good, I had 3k running out of my car and used to drop to 7 volts, then big 3 means i stay at 10.5, plus another battery means i stay at 11. I wish I could have voltage ANYWHERE near yours

I run 11 flat for hours, cruising up and down town. So long as you are as close to twelve as you can go I would be happy. I would worry with more of the high powered amps or expensive amps with under 12, but most of the cheaper amps are made for retards who wouldn't even check there voltage, so you can run lower. Of course you are loosing power....