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Moofs

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Posts posted by Moofs

  1. I was looking into subs that could play a full range and really play the lows. But I'm not sure how to know which will do this.

    I was looking into an ascendant assassin, Fi X series, DC level 2 or an image dynamic IDQ. Something not to high powered.

    But from what I've read ppl have said the best bet on a budget is something like the FI Q.

    Can someone shed some light on this? Will any of the subs I listed play a good range if put into a good box.

  2. Thanks guys! So I got it looked at. Maybe you can help me figure this out bc I'm still confused but apparently the alternator pulley is cracked and the belt is really worn out. Think it even snapped when I took it to the carx. Basically they r given me a new alternator (free since it was already replaced) and two new belts and a power steering flush. I still don't get how it happened though he said that it's bc the power steering pump like locked or something. Does this make sense to you guys?

  3. I would assume it's the battery or the alternator. Start the car with a volt meter on the battery and look to make sure you see a rise in voltage (13+ volts). If you don't, turn up your stereo and within a minute or so you should see the voltage rise, if you don't your alt isn't charging. This could be from a dead alt, messed up wiring (loose wire on the alt or in the alt harness), etc. If you do see it charge then take your car to an Auto Zone and have the battery tested.

    Your stereo shouldn't be completely killing the battery. Could it? Yes... But only if something else is wrong (as others have brought brought up). For now I would stick to the obvious, battery or alternator (that is unless you just put your stereo in a day ago or something).

    well kinda, I've had the stereo in for less than a week. Or at least the sub and the amp.

  4. check the amps and make sure they turn off when you shut down the car.

    make sure you dont have a short somewhere, it could cause a fire.

    double check wiring behind the HU. some wire harnesses with the door chime will drain the battery just because they were poorly made.

    how do I check for shorts? As in fuses?

    And i dont think I have a dorm chime? at least I dont think, unless you mean the "chime noise" that goes off if the door is open, but thats only if I leave my keys in the ignition when I open the door but I usually have them out by then.

  5. I recently got a sub and amp installed in my 94 toyota corolla. The amp makes 240 watts rms and I have a clarion head unit speakers but the speakers r running off the head unit. I turned my car on after the dentist today and the battery light is on and I have no power steering.

    Do you think my system is draining the battery? I only listen to it when the car is fully on and driving. And I don't slam my subs. I listen at medium volume and my sub is tuned at a decently loud level at the zero on my headunit. I usually set it at -3 on the bass setting. What could this be?

  6. Depends how he set your gains. Read up on this site and do it yourself. That sub shouldn't blow on that amp.

    I'll recheck the setting. I had a lot of help on this setup so I'm kinda double checking everything to make sure its done right.

    How hot should the amp get btw? I always check it when I'm done driving just to see how it is. Its always slightly hot but nothing crazy. I'm not sure how much slack to give it since it is in my trunk.

    Also, Did we tune it right? I have my head unit set a 0 bass and its got a decent amount of bass, I dont go over 0 since it seems to be enough, if anything I'll go down to -1 or more to get rid of some bass. Is this right or was I suppose to tune it at a higher number?

    sorry for the noob questions, this is my first car audio setup.

  7. Hey, so I'm down to these 2 subs.

    The Pioneer TS-W303R and the Kenwood KFC-W3011.

    Keep in mind the amp bridged makes 240 watts rms at 4ohms.

    Im wondering if that is to little powe for the kenwood but is the pioneer good enough? Which would you suggest?

    NO EBAY!

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?sort_order=%2Fviewcat.php%3Fcategory_id%3D41%26f_31%3D98%26f_37%3D410%26in_stock%3Dyes%26sort_order%3Dprice_asc&product_id%5B%5D=20058&product_id%5B%5D=8572

  8. i got a 250 rms @ 2 ohms for sale

    pm me and we can talk

    thanks but if I deal w shipping I'd rather deal w a site. My friend is the one ordering it and he feels better about it to. I'm paying him back for it.

    I also wanna stick to just ONE sub.

    I'm actually gonna save the type S for my future setup which might involve a maxima. I already have a 4ohm amp so I wanna stick with that and get an okay sub. Cheaper than to re-buy an amp.

  9. haha thats the one I was looking into also. Now I'm kinda debating what the best path is.

    I have an almost new alpine type S sub and a used alpine MRV t707 amp.

    These are going into a 94 toyota corolla which will NOT be upgraded further. Once I get a new car I'll buy better things. Then probably sell this stuff, this is a BUDGET/CHEAP setup.

    I'm thinking my options are:

    Option 1: Use the alpine sub and spend 120 for the fosgate amp. Run that setup at 2 ohms.

    OR

    Option 2: Save or sell the type s. Run the Alpine amp bridged at 4ohms which gives me 240 watts RMS. Then just buy a cheap 12 inch single voice coil 4 ohm sub.

    Like a Hifonics HFi 12S4, Orion CO124S, pioneener TS-W303R or a Kenwood KFC W3011. All these are like 200-300 watts rms and 30-50 dollars online.

    These:

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?sort_order=%2Fviewcat.php%3Fcategory_id%3D41%26sort_order%3Dprice_asc&product_id%5B%5D=13440&product_id%5B%5D=20058&product_id%5B%5D=8572

    I feel for this setup option 2 would be the smartest move. What do you think?

    btw: how can you tell if an amp is good? They hooked it up and it powered a sub etc but I wanna double check everything is 100%.

  10. Your subs are dual 2 ohm eh? wire in series and the ohm loads add 2+2=4 if it's not a dual 2 ohm sub then you can't wire it to 4 ohms. If it's something other than dual 2 ohm, then please tell me and I can tell you what to wire it to.

    Here is a link with all the info on it

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5351_Diamond+Audio+D312D2.html

    I'm guessing I can do it then, right? I mean it says it's impedance is 2ohms but that it has 2 voice coils. It should work then right?

    and just to double check, I see you said subS, I only have this one sub, not two.

  11. The amp will give out power to whatever you plug into it, it can probably drive a 0.25ohm load for a fraction of a second before it blows, and it can power a 100ohm load (some subwoofers will even reach this load at certain frequencies) but at very reduced power. The amp doesn't know what subs are plugged in, it just sees 4ohms and puts out power, the power varies as the ohm load is increased or decreased (which like I said before happens naturally when playing music) making any switch would be useless.

    If it's a 2ohm sub, it can't run at 4ohms because it's a 2ohm sub. now, if you by another 2ohm sub, you can wire them in series and have 4ohms, but you will need a more powerful amp to drive both subs (and wiring them down to 1ohm would be a better idea, unless your amp can't handle 1ohm). And not all DVC subs can do 4ohms, if it's a dual 1ohm it can only be 0.5ohms or 2ohms, a D4 can only do 2ohms or 8ohms etc etc.

    You are doing 4ohms bridged, which effectively is the same as the 2 x 200watts because when you bridge an amp, each channel sees half the total load, but because one channel is playing and inverted signal, they add together to create one 400watt signal.

    that all made sense but then how do I get my sub at 4ohms? From the sound of it cant? Its a Diamond D3 12inch. I only have one sub. It is a dual voice coil though.

    But from what you said how can I make it work at 4ohms? I know u said wire it in series but isnt that still 2ohms?

    I'm kinda confused bc wasnt the plan to wire it in series and get 4ohms and then bridge the amp?

    How do I know for sure if mine does that?

    Heres a link to the type of sub it is.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5351_Diamond+Audio+D312D2.html

  12. man I keep thinking this over and its stressing me out to the max. I'm just not sure how to wire it. Does anything think it be better to get a new amp? I'm trying to find one that would be around 100$ that is 2 ohm stable around 400 watts rms.

    Is this right in how to set it up?

    So I should wire the sub in series. Wiring the sub that way will give me 4ohms. ( I can do that saftely right?) and then when I bridge the amp it will have around 250-400 watts RMS at 4ohms from the amp?

    but okay I'll get the 4g if I keep the amp.

  13. If the sub is D2ohm, just series the coils and run the amp bridged. That will give you the 800w. Just set your gain according to how much power you need. You can tune it with the bass boost all way up, just make sure you tune it to the bass boost frequency. It will be loudest around the bass boost frequency and not so loud everywhere else. Not the best way to do it, but sounds like you are stuck that way.

    so to just double check. Wire the sub in a series setup? And I can control how many watts I get with the gain?

    (im still new to all this)

    btw I was gonna order an amp kit tonight, I was gonna get an 8g but with 800w wont I need 4g?

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