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Posts posted by Hifonics
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ah, I see... Thank's again joe! I really do appreciate it.
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Ah, thanks buddy! I really appreciate it! I'll have to post some pics for you when it's doneNo, bear in mind that the pic is of generic dimensions, if you reaaly need a customized sketchup let me know.Is it really gonna make a difference having that 3 1/4" peice in there? Just curious!
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Sub forward port back?? most likely that won't help, Here is a suggestion port/ sub firing frontwards: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 8.098 ft^3 External Height = 34 in External Width = 31.25 in External Depth = 20.75 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 26 1/2 x 32 1/2 Front Internal = 25 x 32 1/2 Back = 31 1/4 x 32 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 19 1/4 x 32 1/2 Side 2 = 20 x 32 1/2 Top & Bottom = 31 1/4 x 20 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 1/4 x 32 1/2 Extension = 3 1/4 x 32 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Left 0.05 cubic feet for bracing do some top to bottom and front to back cross bracing with dowel rods, port optimizations as well if you have the tools. Also 2.6KW calls for a solid electrical, that alone can reduce your output so look into that as well. Let me know any questions/comments.
Thank you so much man! It looks really good! The extension you have written as 3 1/4 x 32 1/2. Is that a typo?
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ya? ok because when I first built my box I had people telling me sub forward port sideways. But I think my biggest issue is size. I think I'm choking that poor Mayhem lol. I should have built a bigger box but I was trying to keep 4 seats in the tuck... How much port per square foot should I have?
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I'm flexible. I can position the port up and sub up, or port front sub front. I don't want to fire back again because as it stands it does not sound as good as it could sound. As for rise, I don't know what its at right now.
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Do you think I should build it bigger? Like 8cu or 10cu? I miss my honda.. was so easy to be loud.
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Hello everyone,
I have a 4-door F150 and I'm looking to design a box that would sound good in the back seat. My sub is an 18" ascendant audio mayhem. Currently I have a 5.5cu/ft box behind the passenger seat. Sub forward port back. It just doesn't sound right... Not loud enough (compared to my 15" fi btl that I had... still a bit louder but not by much at all). I think the box is too small.
I was just wondering if anyone had experience building boxes for trucks or would like to help me design a box that would be very efficient for my application. I have posted my max dimensions, amp rating and my sub's T/S specs.
Thiele-Small Parameters
18"
Coils Dual 1 Ω / Dual 2 Ω
Re 0.7 Ω / 1.4 Ω
Fs 33.7 Hz / 33.2 Hz
Qms 6.52 / 6.62
Qes 0.29 / 0.27
Qts 0.28 / 0.26
Mms 307 g / 317 g
Sd 1210 cm^2
Vas 148.9 l
SPL 94.8 / 94.9 1W/1m
Bl 17.7 / 26.2 Tesla Meters
Xmax 30mm (one-way)
RMS 2500w
Amp specs: (I am running my sub at 1ohm)
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 850 watts x 1 channel RMS Power @ 2 ohms 1700 watts x 1 channel RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2600 watts x 1 channel Bridged RMS Power N/A Peak Power Output N/A
In reality I'm probably seeing closer to 2k rms unclipped power.
Max dimensions: 34H x 35.5W x 20.5D (D is for depth from front to back of the box)
Thanks in advance for anyone who wants to help me... I'll also post a build log as I do this next one.
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You really don't have the proper electrical system to be powering a cap. If you had a proper H/O alt and a couple batteries then maybe... But for now just ditch the cap.
Can you elaborate on that?
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Well technically hes not local. He's across the country
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What if you hook em up in parallel? Same thing? Still ok?
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Price on a DC 3.5K and DC 5.0K to ontario, canada k4b 1t4.
Canadian dealer charging too much I think.... We canadians get raped here. If anyone wants my business plz quote me.
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Is that true? I was under the impression that 2 different batts = fail
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what was it?
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From what I understand, OA and SA have an affiliation somehow. (I may be wrong)
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I'll post the youtube vid when I get home! You'll see I'm not crazy!!! haha
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Try some scratch remover. It does work for light scratches. Mothers sells it I do believe as well as meguiar's. Take that stuff, a terry cloth and an hour. Buf the shit out of it. Then wax over it. Should help a lot.
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I played with it about 6 months ago. They'll have to trash it and start over with the GUI. It's bad atm IMO.
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Digital Designs 6.5's
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Not sure if this is what you're talking about but this is what I use. $3 bucks from the pawn shop
Nope it was a drill bit with steel wool looking stuff around it... was about a half inch in diameter. And it can be used straight onto the surface, not on an angle.
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I was wondering if anyone knew of a drill bit that can be used to grind down the paint for a ground? I'm looking to make circular clean grinds to the frame. I saw steve use one in one of his youtube vids when he was installing HID's on his F150.
I've been looking for a few days now and I can not find it anywhere!
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My first amp was a Bazooka 250. This amp had an option to be water cooled. I had it installed by a professional car audio shop..... they had the gain at MAX because they thought it was a volume knob. Bass boost was on. Bridged to 1 ohm (even though it was 2 ohm stable). You could cook eggs on that thing it got so hot. It never died.. I miss quality of the older gear.
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Welcome sonic! You guys are my favorite place to shop!
x2, I love sonic, Now where's that coupon code? I'm about to order around $500 worth of stuff lol
Same! I needs me 50' of 0ga!!
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Welcome sonic! You guys are my favorite place to shop!
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^ reverse polarity is what im thinking
F150 Box Help!
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Thanks joe! The way the measurements work, I'll be able to do both... I could use the same design and fire up or front.
412 CVX: How would you do the baffles?