thx1138

My my look as all these assumptions flying around. I appreciate everyone trying to help, I got it working.

So I just got my AudioPipe AP-4001D in the mail. I was pretty excited after waiting over a week for it to come in so I can finally test my new sub that I got two weeks ago. Well I already installed my 4g wiring kit a long time ago because I was running a sub and amp about a year ago and then sold them. I picked a new ground spot in my cabin, it is a bolt that holds down the seat back. Its a body panel which is connected to the chassis and I sanded all the paint off before I connected the ground wire. So here I am installing the amp and I always plug everything in before I hook up the 12v positive. So I already had the ground hooked up to the amp. I plug in the positive and it gave me a little shock, nothing to worry about I though. Once I touched it with a screw driver to tighten it down thats when it really sparked and I know I didnt touch the body of the amp with the screw driver. So, I called audiopipe's customer service line. No waiting time to talk to someone for tech help, not bad... right? Wrong. The guy was a moron I told him I tested the grounding spot with a mutlimeter and I had to explain it to him like 3 times. Shouldn't he know how a multimeter works? So then he tells me to try plugging in the positive first and then the ground that's when I asked if that would cause any damage since its not grounded and he said the worse it would do is fry some fuses up front. I'm like seriously.... I don't have every spare fuse I need just laying around if that happens... Anyway I try it out, I hook up the positive to the amp first and all of a sudden at the opposite end the positive is hooked up to it barely touches some metal to the body of the amp and gives up a nice spark and now theres a burnt mark at the end of the amp. I don't know what to do, I'm getting pissed off. Need a breather.

Thanks. I never heard of audiopipe so I didn't if I should or not.

Funny that you mention that. I have a zx300.1 sitting right in front of me. But at 150w @ 4 ohm I think it would be under powering the sub quite a bit. I plan on trading it with a friend for an alarm system.

No thoughts on that audiopipe amp? I can't find any reviews or anything. I think I'm just gonna go for it.

How about this http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-ap4001d-p-1450.html The sub wired parallel for 400w @ 1 ohm

All I want is 400w rms I've been finding plenty in the 100 range there always just one thing that stops me from buying it though like it being discontinued but you order it because its available on a site and they don't say it was discontinued and you wait 3 days for it to ship before you get a email saying the order was canceled because it has been discontinued. It'll be fine even at 1 ohm like the other guy recommended? What wattage would it be getting at 1 ohm? Thanks man but that is way more than I need. I don't plan on upgrading at all. I used to have a decently loud system but all I want now is that single 12.

Ok thanks for the advice I had no idea they went out of business. So with the phoenix amp you recommended wiring the sub paralell and then bridging the amp. If I wire it parallel wont it decrease impedence to 1 ohm? Minimum impedence bridged is 4 ohm and the specs dont state the amp is 1 ohm stable at any type of wiring. . . And if I wired the sub series that amp does 500w @ 4 ohms bridged that wont be overpowering my little sub? At the risk of sounding like an idiot, I didn't know about the type of fuse multiplied by the batt. voltage would help me figure out how much power its really putting down. It makes sense though. Also just realized the max input gauge is 8. I already have 4g wire in my car from my last set up. Finding an amp is such a pain in the ass. Can you recommend anything else? My new sub has been sitting here all week and I'm starting to get ancy, guess I'll bump my max spending limit to $150. <- poor student Thanks!

I have this sub http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CompVR-07CVR122-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/tech-data/B000N8MW8W/ref=de_a_smtd And this amp seems to be perfect for it http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/7964817/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 I also like the fact that the max is only 800w and the max of my sub is 800w and its 400w rms 1 channel @ 4 ohm and I plan to run my sub in a series for 4 ohm. I also like the fact it has a volt gauge and an active fan. I'm not familiar with the brand at all and I'm currently trying to find reviews but I would also like to see what you guys think based on the sub I have. If you vote in the poll please let me know why you chose what you chose. Thanks!

Thanks for that link j it was very helpful.

Yeah but if I were to go through that much trouble couldn't I just do it like I did before and power the positive of the fan with the remote wire? Does anyone know offhand what voltage comes from the remote wire or if I should even be powering it off of that?

What kind of relay?

Hello, long time browser of the forums but first time signing up. I have a new amp and I will be replacing the top face plate with plexi-glass so I can mount one or two 30-50mm pc fans to keep it cool during the upcoming summer months. On my last amp I powered the fan from the remote wire but I'm not even sure how much volts it was outputting. All the pc fans are 12v. So what I'm asking is if anyone knows of a general 12v power source I can tap into on the amp that will only supply power to the fan when the amp is on, i.e. the 12v power cord from the battery wouldn't work because it would constantly be on. Thanks.