CortezDTV
-
Posts
3259 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by CortezDTV
-
-
They can fit
You have to trim the edge and put a perfect layer if glue down
-
In all fairness to this amplifier, I've never tested one so can't say for sure. Although, basic math would suggest it isn't possible. From their published data: 20kw @ 14.4V with 86% eff. = 20,000 / .86 = 23,255 watts input / 14.4V = 1615 Amps DC. / Three 0 AWG = 538A per 0 AWG. Maybe possible, sounds a little sketchy. But the devil is in the details. That efficency rating is at 4 ohms. At 1 ohm it will be around 65%. They don't mention that. Now doing the same math with real numbers we see that we would need 2136A at 14.4V. This isn't happening on 3 runs of 1/0.Can you prove this amp wrong?
Zapco ZX 26KD
Mono, 1 ohm: 1 x 14500 Watts (12 volts)
Mono, 1 ohm: 1 x 20000 Watts (14.4 volts)
Mono, 1 ohm: 1 x 22000 Watts (16 volts)
T.H.D. + Noise: <1% @ 1 ohms.
It gets better than that
Zapco says its current consumption is only 600 amps
Don't get me wrong but come on 600 amp draw and producing 14k
-
1
-
-
-
Ya
That is probably the right way
-
The ms8 will basically do its own setup
So u just have it do its thing then set the gain on the amp do it again so it gets the right measurements then set gain again
-
Ms8 is a max output voltage of 2.8v
So set h/u with dd1 then do the jbl setup then sent the amps gain do jbl setup again to make sure
And set gains one more time for adjustment
That's how I would do it
-
That was kind of a of derp statement by me I guess. Didn't think about the multiple amp thing, clamping one at a time.
me too except the only problem is i have 8 amps on 8 coils and my wiring is all nice. I'm not pulling it all apart any time soon and even if i did, its just gonna give me an amp by amp reading. (nothing is strapped, not even a single pair of amps. They are all individual)I would like to see the tests on a system running thousands of watts, a few alts, and a shitton of batts. The Tahoe.
I know its totally different than the tests with this tiny setup, but still be interesting to know exactly whats going on.
anyway, i am planning on trying the AD-1 on all sorts of things. Like Tony said, moving the cap further away from the amp was enough to change the results. Also, forget Amplifiers, don't make me do a "wire shootout"....ill take tests @ 50 ft , 10 and maybe 18" or something like that and see what brand delivers the most power. Ill even toss welding cable in the mix. The Dyno isn't just about your amp making or not making power, lots of things can be a factor
Don't make me do a battery battle too if you catch my drift....do they even make those pretty blue things anymore? So maybe then, A setup with alts and batts and a single big amp, like an AB1100 or something.
I know lots of stuff factors in, just curious about the caps on a more powerful setup.
Rays setup (dc98hoe)
It's 2 amps but he has caps real caps (I beleive it's 2 banks of maxwells now)
It would be interesting to see how much power he's clamping with and without them
-
Scott is genius they make beast subs
They could prolly do it blind folded .... Steve has the proto now, we shall see what happens.... I just wanna know how many!
-
-
call Scott, at ascendant, and tell him you would like steve to quit sandbagging. I could have put 40 RF woofers in the van by now but like everything, i wait, and wait, and wait.......even the spiders that moved in, moved out (cob webs).steve is a huge sandbagger
i guess its a work van until i get my woofers. Then i can start planning.
think maybe a petition for them to hurry up could work?
would also like to point out that they didnt move out because of it taking to long, they heard its gonna be your next big build and didnt want to get caught in the airflow.
U must have a plan if the orders in
Sooo what (size) subs and how many
if he has a plan he is making us wait. if he doesnt i would say its because they are still doing testing on the subs he is gonna be using.
Steve does the initial testing
Ill let him tell u
I asked a specific question...
But what do I know ha
-
U must have a plan if the orders in
Sooo what (size) subs and how many
-
I thought he said 5 6.5s then one 8 and one more 6.5 per door and 5 tweeters for each pillar
-
I didn't think this thread could get any better
-
Lets guess c&d batts?
Either way my point is still valid. The gas in idle time for the vehicles entire life will be less than half of ur batts.....
Plus people saying ill hurt the batteries, probably not especially if u charge at nights (deep cycle batteries need to cycle full to empty or they will never work to their potential) that being said ur amps will smoke before u kill ur batts! Amps get warm when they have to work harder heat is ur biggest enemy, at lower voltages the amp will have to work harder, a lot harder! Thus becoming hot and then smoking etc...
Just run ur car when u play ur stereo! It will save u $ in the long run
-
X2This thread is full of failure.
What he's saving to buy 5grand worth of batteries but doesn't wanna buy the 500$ in all the idle time he'd prolly ever have in the life of the vehicle
So much fail
I won't play my stereo without the car running
-
Nothing about mounting more than one alt is easy... I had a sure thing bracket been used a million times on cop cars everywhere.... still took me few hours and I'm pretty damn handy with wrenches...
But good luck building your own props to you if it works out
Might want to talk to cj18 on here he built his own but recently dropped back to 2 alts cuz 3 really loads ur engine down
A high output lay draws 8hp ish at max production.... That being a said it strains ur engine..... Don't let anyone EVER tell u they don't, taking hp/ torque directly from the crank is the fastest way to loose hp!
-
Lol he build a triple kit yet he doesn't have any alternators
I think smd got trolled
-
^^^^ he's the dd king
N8 watch out
-
And let me guess ur dodge has way over 1000hp and 500 foot pounds of torque???
-
It all comes down to port velocity..... Which is determined by port area and tuning frequency
You need a specific number....
Also very important and a good quote from Hackmunch
"Port flares
Well enginering studies show that a 20% radius is optimal for spl and cutiing down turbulance to an absolute minimium. So a proper 8" flare should have a minimium of 1.6" radius . 8" + 3.2" =11.2 plus flat for mounting. Anyone making pvc flares (won't mention any names)with less than 20% radius is really wasting peoples time and money. Don't get me wrong a little flare is better than nothing but a proper flare is wayyy better than a little one."
-
I'm at 28 inches of port per cube with my 4th
My buddy bill is right around 20 with a similar box to urs
I would at least do 20 but that's just me 18 would work
-
Need more port imo
Closer to 18 or 20 inches of port per cube
-
Cuz they normally go downhill from the start
-
Wasn't trying to be rude before.....
Also how a sub is broken in can change the specs from one sub to another
One that is burped at break in vs one that is gently massaged for a few weeks or months etc etc
In general the ya specs are close but look at it like amps they don't all clamp the exact same numbers but they are the "same" and have very similar numbers
Don't make me do a battery battle too if you catch my drift....do they even make those pretty blue things anymore? 
8" M2 question
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
And bill has I believe still does use them as midbassjust use a very small sealed box