Jump to content

Cardboardcat15

Members
  • Posts

    1594
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by Cardboardcat15

  1. Not sure if anyone on here are jdm/hellaflush fans, but I thought I'd leave this here. One sick 6th gen corolla (EE90). Has the body of the Early 90's corollas, but is AWD! You never see anyone drive these things (Mainly because a majority of them are FWD), but I really think whoever did this brought out the potential to look good, even though I'm not a huge fan of tire stretch.

  2. Dude, MoVal is straight ghetto. So many tweeks and every kid from middle and high school thinks they're gangsta. Especially there by the HS. I think you been away at college too long LOL. Gotta lock your car up, bro.

    Fucking this. I used to go to the high school off nason rd by the 60, it wasn't so bad until I left in 2009, where it was getting worst, and a student from the same school I went was kidnapped and murdered in 2010 I believe. My wife knew her as an acquaintance.

    Norma Lopez. I remember that, really sad stuff. I was still in highschool at that time, shit was on major lockdown for a good while.

    It makes me glad that I have yet to fix my trunk problem (sticks really bad when you try to open it up), cause they could have easily popped the trunk and had fun with my 2k and 4 channel. What makes me think it was a kid is the fact that the iPod cable is gone, and all my speakers were there. Probably were walkin' home from school. Saw the cord and said might as well take this too and yanked the screen.

  3. windows down was askin for it man. I live in a real nice suburb in ohio, and my ol ladies shit got broken into. Now we have cameras, a mean ass dog, and alarms on the cars.. can never be to safe, regardless where u live.

    Exactly. Normally what happens is I get home from classes and just hop out of the car and forget to roll the windows up. lol

    Maybe I should take our two pits for more walks around the neighborhood :rofl:

  4. Dude, MoVal is straight ghetto. So many tweeks and every kid from middle and high school thinks they're gangsta. Especially there by the HS. I think you been away at college too long LOL. Gotta lock your car up, bro.

    lmao, probably. I'm moving our old mitar saw right now so I can park my car on the side of our house behind the gate, right next to my window. Fuck thieves.

    Good thing the screen was a ten dollar china special off ebay LOL

  5. Walked out to my car and found this.

    Took my iPod cable

    DSC00656.jpg

    and my rear view screen

    DSC00658.jpg

    I'm an idiot for having my windows rolled down, so I can see how my car was an easy target. Still, I thought my neighborhood was some place I wouldn't have to worry about theft. Looks like I was wrong. Good thing the idiot yanked the screen out to where it'll be impossible to wire it up. lulz. Sucks though, my sense of security is gone. Looks like I need to find some way to keep my car safe.

  6. look at the foil in the first pic. there is hardly any evidence of pressure being applied to the SS. looks like he slapped it on and scratched the middle of the tile. and later you can see where he did put pressure it stuck because the black part clearly looks different in the middle.

    This. It doesn't even look like he applied any pressure to anywhere besides the middle of that one panel.

  7. That seems really short for tinsel leads, not sure if its the pic or what but the leads should extend over the outer lip of the spider landing. You have 3 ways to fix this.

    1.) Get the push terminals and get a metal tab that is fairly thick and wont bend easily and extend the tab over to the tinsel leads on your recone kit. Solder the wire to the tab and put some shrink wrap over the tab to help prevent the two terminals from shorting out (note: do NOT put shrink wrap over the whole tinsel lead, just where the solder joint and metal tab extending from the spring loaded terminal)

    2.) Get some 12 gauge (thats what it looks like your tinsel lead wire is but double check) and solder that onto the tinsel lead end with some 60/40 rosin core solder. I strongly recommend you use solder flux with this to help make a strong connection. Then you can take the newly extended lead and solder it to the terminal and put some shrink wrap over the extended lead portion to protect it from shorting out.

    3.) Get some heavy duty (depends on the power rating of your sub, 10 or 8 gauge wire is normally used) and make direct leads. If you can for where the current tinsel leads rest at drill a hole into the lip outside where the spider landing is and make it big enough to just slightly fit the power wire you want to use as the direct leads for your sub in with very little gap between the outer jacket of the wire and the basket itself. Then flux the wire and tinsel and solder it together. Place shrink wrap over the joint you soldered and then push the wire up through the holes you drilled just a bit to give the tinsel leads slack when the sub starts to move. Then take some CA glue and put that around the area where the outer jacket of the direct lead is and the basket and give it a shot of accelerator.

    Those are pretty much your only options. Dont do the direct leads by just soldering them onto the tinsel leads because if you do that you will guaranteed short the leads out if not rip the leads from the subwoofer itself because of the tension it will encounter.

    Thanks for the in depth reply man! I was actually thinking of doing something like #1, seemed practical and easiest.

  8. Since I'm a fucking idiot who always overlooks things, I've accidentally set a recon in to dry without even glancing art the Lead wires and if they were lined up.

    Is there any way I can extend the tinsel leads and/or modify the push terminals so that these leads can reach and still move freely with the woofer?

    DSC00655.jpg

    I'm such an idiot lol

  9. I was in the same boat as you man. My wall build right now (the one in my sig) is actually the first box I've ever built. Now granted, it is a sealed box so it's one hell of a lot easier for me to build, but it's still a great learning experience. Go big or go home, right? lol.

    Anyway, I'm building in car too. You need a false floor to get everything secured down to, and that false floor needs to be bolted down the car good. Once you have that its pretty much building a big box on that false floor. (at least in my situation.) What I did was just cut the pieces of the box out, and assemble them one by one. Started with the back of the box. Laid my bead of glue, and went to town. used some L brackets, a right angle and other things to keep the piece up and in position until the glue dried. Once that piece was in, it's pretty easy from there on. Cut pieces and do them one by one. L brackets, some clamp force and waiting. I thought it would be hella hard, but since mine is one big box, it wasn't too difficult. From the looks of it, yours doesn't have any crazy intricate corners following the contour of the car, that's where I think it gets harder.

    BTW, I used Titebond II for my wall. Strong as shit, and any holes or imperfections from mis-measurement i filled in with Liquid nails. Once that was done, I glassed all of the edges/corners with 24oz Fiberglass mat.

    I'm no professional, like I said. First box ever. Just tellin ya what I've done so far, and it's worked for me :)

    EDIT: also, you gotta secure the box from a high point of the box to the car, like the back to rear pillars or something.

    Just wait for a pro to chime in to give the ultimate say-so

  10. Not exactly sure about your question, but this might help.

    With the big 3, you're not replacing your stock wiring. You're adding to it. Leave your stock wiring in there, and just add the 1/0 runs on top of that. Get some ring terminals for the wire you use for the big 3, and new battery posts that has a bolt you can attach the ring terminals to. That will solve your connection issues.

    Voltmeter goes like this.

    Positive to wherever you want the readout from (I.E> battery or amp)

    Neg to ground

    And then the remote turn on to any switching power source.

  11. I'm tempted to write your first few paragraphs. lol.

    Just explain the negative aspects of car stereo and how society looks down upon it. List as many as you can on a piece of paper, and turn each one of those into a paragraph. Then, list the counter arguments on another piece of paper and turn those into their own paragraphs. I'm sure a few of the topics you come up with can be turned into two parapgraphs if you're good.

    Issue is, the main reason people hate car stereo is because assholes give us a bad name at stoplights. The argument is logically sided in our favor. You could probably get away with having more of your paragraphs focus on how car stereo is a healthy and fun hobby that will disprove any other theory saying its a nuisance.

    Good luck, man.

×
×
  • Create New...