Jump to content

Wilson

Members
  • Posts

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Wilson

  1. OK, I tolf RF that a box that size for those low-power subs seemed looney to me. I sent them back some dimensions that will allow me to install my rear channel speakers without having to get really creative. I sent them od's of 22h*26d*35w, using 1" thick wood. Paste from Rockford Fosgate: After re-calculating your other box we actually tuned it a little lower than 37Hz since the box was so big, that allowed us to get the correct respsonse. I'm glad you were able to shrink down the dimensions, after plotting it again on my box program I was able to get a little more port area with a decent port length: Width: 35" Height: 22" Depth: 26" Port opening: 20" x 4" opening Port length: 12" Tuning: 37Hz
  2. I talked to RF about the box and this is what they sent back to me. I was thinking of doing four 12's on a punch 4000 this fall, but the tech sent me a set up for my maximum dimensions now. I guess I can build this huge box and repack the subs and retune it this fall. Maybe that's not a bad thing. Here's the RF specs: they are od and using 1" wood. What do you guys think? I came up with something very different when using the http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 link. Info for the link: 1 port, 11.5ft^3 net, 37 hz tuning, 10x6 vent,9 mm xmax, 4-10" subs Fosgate box for 4-10" P1 using my max space: Width: 35" Height: 29" Depth: 26" Port opening: 60 square inches (ex: 10" x 6" opening) Port length: 10.25" Tuning: 37Hz
  3. I went to the first link that bigredishott offered and I think I can take it from there. It seems to give me specs that I can design from. I think the subs and ports should be front firing so I'll probably scrap the original window clearance idea. According to that link, I can use two 6x6 ports that are 15.3 long. The box is 7 cu ft, but I'll add .5 cu ft for speaker displacement and about .3 for ports which gives me a grand total of 7.8 cu ft ID. I have some old but good 1" plywood I need to use. I'm guessing no bracing is needed with such low wattage. Everyone keeps saying to buy other subs, etc, but look, man- I got this stuff cheap and used. Once I learn how to do vented boxes, I'll probably come back to the forum and ask what's the best way to utilize my 15 cu ft wagon area. I knew when I bought it that the gear was only a fraction of what I have had and probably wouldn't be the last system I get. After this is done, I may screw the amps on the side and sell is as a "powered subwoofer" to some local who probably won't appreciate what he is getting. Please let me know if my thoughts in paragraph one are on track or not.
  4. Can't find different specs on the 05/06 era subs.
  5. I hear the little power/why bother thing. This is just an experiment. If I can pull this one off, I'll probably go for all that can fit this fall. The car is a staionwagon! I don't really want to go higher than the windows (15") but I have an area that is actually 30"h 35"w 26"d. Behind the fenders, I currently have a sealed box that must be 42" wide. I have been doing math, too, and with displacement and port, I can't see it staying that low either. I guess it's time for plan B. What do you think? Fosgate has their ideal settings at 7cuft net. Thanks for forming a think tank for my little setup. Like I say, it's practice. It's not the loudest I've owned and I don't think it'll fill the void long term.
  6. The subs are all four P1's, but two are older models. I don't think the specs are different. As far as tweaking the box design that is pictured, do you basicly mean to keep the cubic inches of the box and port the same but change the outer dimensions of the box to what will fit my car? pm sent I don't want 15's because I bought these little 10's for cheap 6 months ago. If I spend any coin on swapping subs and stuff, I'll dump all my little stuff and go legit next time. Today I just want to be able to blueprint a perfect box. I'm free tomorrow and want to build it then, if possible!
  7. I am new to the forum and saw the subcategory for boxes and thought I may have better luck getting a response here. I don't mind doing some resarch on my own, but I need help in deciding on the right box for my car. My current sealed box is low passed around 120 with some 40 hz boost. Here's a paste from the general audio forum question I wrote. Thanks for any advice. I'm new to box tuning and highly modified electric systems, and I have alot of learning to do before I possibly get a multi-kw system, but I think I'll try the big 3 and a tuned box on my current system (not largest ever owned). Here's the deal: I don't know what would be the optimal setup for my subs and car. Here's all the specs I know that may help. CAR: '90 Camry wagon rear area measures 34" inside fenders, 26" or 28" hatch to back of rear seat. I'd like to have an "unobstructed view" to maybe be able to compete in a small class so we'll call the height 15". Subs: 4- 10" RFosgate p1's -actually, two are the pevious model, but I hope that won't make much difference. A single sub requires 1.75 cubic ft net volume and 2.1 gross. The port is 2x10.5x19.5 and the fosgate diagram shows it being curved (90*) in their box. I hope changing their ideal dimensions won't effect the box. Can I change the fosgate ideal dimensions without severely changing anything? I know I need 2.1 gross and 1.75 net cu ft. Which way should I make the subs and port fire? Can anyone explain if I can make a single port that is four times the single sub specs? Perhaps it needs to be somewhat smaller. So just take those single sub specs and multiply by four, right? I have some 1" wood and I'll also brace the box if I need to. Sound cool? I just need a little direction to get me started. I want to optimize this little system so I can really get a legit design for this fall. I've had somewhat bigger setups in the past but I've always used sealed boxes. Thanks for any ideas and help for the new guy who is getting the fever again. Let me know if I'm leaving out any major details.
  8. Sorry, Tebo, I was trying to be too brief. I was just trying to say I have a high pass and a low pass filter on my 8's. They are in the rear area with 6x9's. It is obviously a different application than what you have in mind, so enough about me. We need to see what is the best way for you to get signal! I can't picture what the bass eq is and I don't know what running off the output of the 4 channel will do voltage-wise (does it send a regulated amount out, split the head unit's output, etc.), so I'll wait to see with you. Good luck
  9. I have a pair of 8's between my subs and 6x9's. Mine have their own rca's out of the head unit and the signal is cut hp and lp.
×
×
  • Create New...