Wilson

I'm going to try to post a vid of my 2 12" XL's doing 151.1 on the floor, 15 sec avg @ 39 hz. I wish computers liked me.

I ran a decent 400w amp on a crappy 450rms/1500 max sub, and I had lots of problems (blew quick)! 5 minutes later, I put in the other single sub, gently broke it in for 2.5 weeks, and once again had problems. It blew, only the broke in sub took a couple weeks to pop. It is very tempting to try to get that last little bit of sound; so do be very careful. FYI- punch 400, 15"Volfenhag - he bought the gear before we met. Now he's planning on a beast 15 with big power.

Well, all I can say is... . We all have fun!

Sammitch0, thanks for the info/offer, but I don't really need you to go to the trouble of designing anything for me. I think my max dimensions are about 37w x 16h x 24d, but I can do all that stuff. I just need to know what I'm going for. Here's the thing: with those max dimensions, I could add another cube or so to my box. Would that be a good thing? Should I change my port size for a burp box? I angled my current box so the slot was pointing into the rear corner. This dropped me about 1.5-2 db's so I was kind of leaning towards rearfiring. How does top firing subs with a rear firing 8' "aeroport" sound? I'd really appreciate any cooments, whether you say I'm on track or an idiot! Later, W.

I thought about starting a poll, but I'll leave it open for all ideas. I have an old Camry stationwagon and I am trying to get the best score I can at the headrest. I currently use about 3.2 cubes, with rear firing subs and rear firing 15x3.5 slot (pretty sure I'm at 52 sq in port size, even if the dimensions are slightly different). I recently changed my tuning from 35hz up to 40, in hopes of getting closer to my car's favorite freq (think I came close to finding it with a sealed box w/other subs @ 46-47), but I haven't explored the new tuning on a meter enough to know how much/if it helped for sure. I think it helped some, but not enough. Btw, my gear is in my sig. I've been told that a different box may be the one thing that will squeeze another db or two out of the old wagon. I'd love to hear some of you experienced folks' opinions on what type of box may be ideal in my ride. I guess it's kind of similiar to a small suv, if you have never tweaked a lil' wagon. I have a couple big shows coming up and I don't want to get spanked by too much, so any input would be cool to consider! Btw, the box is louder if I push it forward as much as I can, if this helps. No, I haven't tried flipping my box forward firing, yet. Let me know if I need to elaborate on something else. Thanks, Wilson. edit: total burp box is fine with me. I'll take it back out after I use it for it's purpose.

I think Hotdog is on the right track here. You can call it six or a half dozen; meaning you can use all kinds of different things that are similiar or whatever. But that being said, this is a legitimate idea that he obviously spent some time on figuring up. It's a great baseplan to think around and stuff imo. I used to run four RFosgate 12's rated 400rms each on a punch 1500, and I blew a few subs as I hammered for extended periods; so I would use a little bit of caution (or common sense) with the bass. This was in the past and I realize the current models will be somehow different. Bottom line, sounds like a fun delimna to have! Good luck on the build.

Long way past this point, now. It was useful knowledge for me in the past; as it will be useful for someone else in the future, I'd say. Imagine how I felt reading the Meca rules, with my system either bought or sort of in my mind, and thinking I'd be in some mega-class with my little set up!

As far as box size goes, DC told me to do 3.5 net cubes with 52.5 sq in port (35-38hz) for my 2 12" XL's on two old punch 1500's (probably between 3 &3.5k, I'd guess). Not exactly the same set up, but I thought it may be worth knowing as you think about what you will do and stuff. I love my XL subs; but I don't, honestly, have alot of high powered sub experience. IMO,I'd probably save money and use the XL with a tad of caution.

Mine went into protect when I was in the lane trying 1 ohm for the first time, recently. I certainly do like them, though. I have two and had one back when they were new. I'll bump it because the price is nice!

Ideally, the guy with 2-12's should run a 75 amp fuse and the 2-15 competitor should run a 70 amp fuse. That'd put them in AS2. If you wanted to get squirrelly, subtract 45 amps from those numbers for AS1. You only need a second. The thing is, no batteries or anything between your fuse and amp (in order to use the low fuse rating). I don't think my new subs won't be in yet, but I should be there with my smaller system.

I'm jumping on the bandwagon by the end of this week! Either two built 12" 4's, or stock XL's. Amps mail in the morning. I am excited.

I thought that was the case. Thanks for helping the newb.

Thanks for the info Chode, but I've been crunching numbers already. The thing I really need to know is, will the judges frown on me using a smaller than reccomended fuse size? I am wanting to change from my gear's reccomended 80 amps down to 60 amps. I'd be in the low 900's with my 4-10's. The stock pair of 40 amp fuses puts me into the much bigger 1001-2000 class, which would probably put me way out of my element. New build coming soon.

As the title states, I want to know if you can change - say a 40 amp factory fuse to a 30 amp. After I did this swap twice, it'd make me a little bigger fish in a smaller pond. It's a temporary set up, but I want to to go get my feet wet. Thanks for the info, W

Thanks for all the input. I am still willing to read good links, etc., so I can understand this concept better. In response to AKBASS's post (just above this one), I would be feel satisified with appr. 15.-15.25 volts. I don't necessarily want to go to the further cost/effort of installing 16/18, and I don't want to complicate my feeble mind. My air cond unit is gone and that will house some sort of ho alternator, while also keeping my stock alt. Still, running seperate electric systems (one @ 13v, one @16/18)seems a little excessive if I can hit appr 15.1 volts without doing that whole higher voltage gear process. I assume running a lesser voltage or stock voltage system would require a larger amount of reserve power so the voltage wouldn't drop below it's 15v max (or drop much). Is 15 really doable with regular batt's and alt's? After contemplating the two paths everyone seems to be speaking of (easier 15v system with lots of reserve for little voltage drop, or buy expensive 14/16 type stuff), I wonder if 15v is cool for stock. I guess it is ok, since your achiveing it with stock voltage alt's and batteries. Not trying to drill everyone out, I appreciate help or places to read up on this. Thanks again, W

Ok folks, I'm about to do a major amp upgrade and I am considering an amp or two that like 16 volts (as well as others). What are the ways to do this voltage raise? I have never thought of doing this voltage upgrade until very recently, so any info would be cool, even if it's a link or something. Also, how do regular amps and the vehicle's stock electrical system react to the higher voltage? thanks, Wilson

Hey folks, I got my 0 gauge, a 150 amp fuse and holder, and 6 crimp-on terminals for my big three today. I'm thinking about installing it tonight, but I started wandering about this 0 gauge as I've never used it before. Couple of questions: Should I add a little solder to the tips of the wire to help the crimp on ends hold better, or just peel the insulation and go for it, or what? Should I do anything special to the wire ends when tightening into the fuse box? I assume channel locks and a kung-fu grip will be sufficient to put the crimp ends on with. Am I right here? Do you guys have more luck grabbing one side more than the other or do you crimp both sides fairly evenly and simultaneously? I doubt the wire cutting pliers I have will chop this stuff, so I guess I'll cut it with a hacksaw. Is that cool? Thanks for helping out another new guy. I don't want to learn from trial and error and my mistakes anymore! Sorry if I'm over-analyzing this.

I say go for it. Maybe don't go wide open, but playing pretty close to max should be cool. The treble amp isn't going to yank anywhere near the internally fused 75 amps. Be a little conservative and jam all weekend is my opinion!

I like the idea of 2-15's (or 12's if you already have them) behind the seat, sealing off the trunk. I'd roll with the sealed off backseat/trunk idea and use what you want or can fit. Just my $.02

Maybe with above averge height. I think we need to know the height that goes with the 34"W opening. What about upfiring subs and the ports could go into the rear deck? I'd still try to have front firing subs and port. Second choice for me would be rear/rear (as long as it can breathe some). What are the maximum dimensions available in the trunk? We need dimensions to envision what we would all prefer to do.

Hate to say it, but I'd call this trucker a victim of road rage. He should have called the cops for the harrassing and threatening behavior that YOU inflicted on him. I guess the OP never speeds. Such a great person, trying to attack a driver. My $.02

Digging the pics. I was scared that this was a super tiny box or something. haha. nice job.

Is the 1.8 cu ft (gross internal volume, I guess) box for four subs? Hope that is enoough, man. Don't forget speaker displacement (port was mentioned earlier) when solving your net cu ft. 7Jezuz7 nailed the first question.

hey guys what is the name of the song he is playing in this video. i can't remember.

Yeah man, this is just a warm up. I won't sink a dime into two subs for this set up. It's not worth trying to sweeten, to me, so I'll just tweak it and get rid of it. I've been kicking around full trunk/hatch area ideas for the last few days. The box, subs, and sub amps I have will all be bunched together and sold to someone this fall. I just want to practice on this little set up that I currently have before going all in.