stefanhinote
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Posts posted by stefanhinote
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Humm I have some ideas for that, a garage full of tools, and teh hookup with Rusty at DC...
I'd personally do 6 15" LVL4's blown through off a DC 12k and a single 175.4 wired at 2 ohms per channel would be more than enough power for some tweeters and door speakers.
How many dbs would that be?
There's no way for him to magically know, but it sounds loud
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Humm I have some ideas for that, a garage full of tools, and teh hookup with Rusty at DC...
I'd personally do 6 15" LVL4's blown through off a DC 12k and a single 175.4 wired at 2 ohms per channel would be more than enough power for some tweeters and door speakers.
sounds loud, might be outta my budget.
Maybe next week we can meet up
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Was he wrong about the wiring kits? Maybe he didn't want to sound dumb?
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These guys don't know what they're talking about. You can use 10s and 12s in the same box, just be sure to use different amps for each different sized sub. I think.
Also, I would get a wiring kit from ebay. Get 4 of them though, cause you're gonna want to do 4 runs of whatever size wire you get.
Okay thanks, I still have to convince my dad though. Otherwise this build is on hold. He's very stubborn when he drinks
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I smell a troll. Or just flat bullshit.
huh?
The truck needs to stay together first.Rust?
Well I gotta see if I can convince my dad now. I could probably sand blast and paint it.
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You guys are gettin played.
The truck has potential though.
Well your sorta right, I just talked to my dad and showed him the pictures of the box. He said I can't touch his truck.
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Think I'll need super tweeters to keep up with all the bass. Like a row of 10 above the windshield?
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That would work. Putting them in the same box isn't a good idea becasue they act differently and cancel each other.
This. Don't put the 10s and 12s on the same channel of an amp.
Alright, I might use one of my old AP amps for them then.
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That would work. Putting them in the same box isn't a good idea becasue they act differently and cancel each other.
Oh that makes sense. I can run the level 2s in a sealed box right?
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You can't put 10's and 12's in the same box however.
Technically, you can. It'll just fuck shit up though
What if I had the 10s in their own sealed enclosure like within the main box? and since it's sealed it would have like a punchier response, which would be good since their 10s and being used for the higher bass?
Thanks
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Cool idea. You can't put 10's and 12's in the same box however.
Will it sound bad?
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I wanna turn my dads old pickup into a spl monster. I figured this was the place to get all the help since everyone here knows so much.
I was thinking about using DC subs. I saw this cool video of a bronco doing hairtricks. They look loud.
I also heard that the level 3s can take 3500 max watts. I think I would use 4 12" level 3s for the low lows and 2 10" level 2s for the upper bass region.
Here's a pic like his truck:
For the box, my friend in russia came up with this. But he didn't get to finish the port part cause he was tired.
What should I tune to? I wanna do hair tricks!
If the box doesn't fit behind the seats, we can cut up the back and use part of the bed. We got a cutting grinder and welder
I was thinking of using 4 of these bad boys: SPL Gorilla 5500watt amps.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17908_SPL-GRLA-5500-1D-GRLA5500-1D.html
Also I read that caps don't do anything, so would like 4 optimas be good?
I already picked up a bunch of sound deadener from Home Depot. I got a ton of this peal n seal. Truck should be pretty quiet.
What's a good place to buy wiring?
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look at it from a distance of 10 to 20 feet
FYI it took me close to 30 minutes be happy
You have NO IDEA how hard I laughed at those 2 statements!!
x2.
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Yeah my box wasn't made to take 2000w of power, I built it for my old 200w setup lol. Hopefully I'll get it louder with a new box, going to brace this one pretty good, tune it to 36hz and have a bit over 17sqin of port. Will also experiment with seat postitioning and the like. I also have no deadening and get crazy flex, so will probably buy some deadner very soon.
Deadener may help your score, but it may very well hurt your score. If your serious about getting higher numbers, bracing will help eliminate flex and maintain that pressure inside the vehicle.
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Hey all, well I just got metered for the first time, and the reason Im making this post is to know if my number was decent, I feel I should be hitting higher with a Sc DD3515 on a DC2k.
Got a 139.8 on music
Got a 140.6 outlaw at 54hz
Got a 141.5 legal at 44hz
Box is 4.5ft^3 tuned to 35hz with about 15.8in^2 port for daily driving, and built pretty badly. Currently building a box designed by Fecupe, so well see if that yields higher numbers... Just want to know if this is decent for the equipment I'm running and first time on the meter... Thanks
Vehicle plays a big role, and enclosure.
My last setup was a 18" fi bl with a saz1500d, i only managed to pull off a 143 @40hz at headrest with passenger door open. Vehicle used wasn't good for holding in pressure (jeep wrangler) and my box had some terrible panel flex.
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Anyone in Tucson have a Termlab? I would love to do some short testing before the next show in phx (at trp).
I will pay for time.
Thank you
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Address is actually 7931 E Pecos Rd Mesa AZ 85212
I plan on attending (volvo wagon)
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Make sure ground connection is secure, make sure grounding point is clean bare metal to metal, no paint.
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Will it work? Yes. Will it sound decent? No.
Can you drive with a donut wheel? Sure, would you go racing on the track with it, sure hope not...
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lol no dude. using a DMM its pretty damn accurate. WAY batter than guessing, or as you called it, going by ear.
So you would use Voltage = SQRT(Power x Resistance) in order to adjust the gain until the amplifier's output voltage matches.
Only problem is impedance is always changing. I guess it would get you close enough, but so would using your ear...
yes.
impedance is always changing, yes. but is it ever lower than nominal? no. using the DMM is accurate. i have tested it with my o-scope. clipping happens before it is audible at sub frequencies. above ~200hz its audible rite away. at least thats what i noticed while using a tone generator.
Yeah I would say 200hz is a bit out of the sub woofers response realm
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this guys aq system is bad (:
Youtube videos don't do justice for anything. Don't base your ideals or any plans around a video you watch, just because something is loud in one vehicle doesn't mean it will in yours, or because their door panel flexes more, it's louder...
(Not saying you were, just keep that in mind though)
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the box is 15h x 30w x 10d
Which panel is the driver mounted on? 15x30?
What direction is the driver firing in the cabin? forward, rear, side?
Do any of the sides of the box run up against a backseat, door, fenderwell, etc? The port needs a few inches to breathe, so you want it to have some space between the opening and anything near it.
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well i argued this forever on the forums before i build my box i know nothing bout porting i know aero ports you are post to get most quality out of but if i gave you measurements to my box would you tell me what size aeroport you think i should get??
You can calculate port length, diameter, and tuning as long as you have your enclosure volume, which you already stated.
But yeah post dimensions so we know what your port length constraints are. May have to use a pvc elbow for the port.
But yeah a 4" aero port would probably be good. Lemme make sure it has enough port area, I'll post back in a bit.
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Do Work!
in SPL - SOUND PRESSURE LEVEL
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I'm pretty sure people are messing with you Burko...
Either way, the DC subs look beefy as hell