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bullet0597

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  1. Thing that sucks is the guy that built my enclsoures told me they would be tuned to 32hz, at 2.25 cubic foot a sub....kind of wish I had bigger enclosures to get a little louder, but, as long as these get me to my goal or at least close ill be happy. I really dont want to build new enclosures lol, maybe later down the line if i end up not happy with these, but not right now
  2. Haha sorry man i can't help with the ports and such, i'm REALLY not the type for custom boxes. I build mine, but i build directly from manufacturers specs. Someone will get back to you on that, as for the T5's surround, I'd say there's not much to worry about with that, Unless you're giving em too much power. Soundstream subs can really take a beating. Sweet. I plan to give them 100 watts over on RMS, but, I wouldnt think that would really matter...maybe more strictly in a burp. As for the specs for the T5s, i know soundstream spec...minimum they recommend is 2 cubes per sub, max is 4....me and a guy on here figured everything out, im sitting at 2 cubic foot per sub after displacement, 16.95 sq in. port area per cubic foot, tuned to 40.3HZ....im hoping i can get somewhere in the high 140s with this....it will be walled with 4 t5s on 4000 watts RMS...
  3. okay fanboy the t5 are better and can take more power than the rw's should work in the wall just fine Yes, i know they can take more power, ect. that is where the problem lies, weather or not there is going to be enough airspace and port area to support them, yea i could just throw them in there and call it a day if i dont care if theyre in the proper enclosure or not, thats what im trying to get at here is yes, i know i will have a decent ammount of air space for what im wanting out of them, as far as port area im not sure, thats the only thing left and i cant calculate port area worth a damn lol
  4. Sweet. Thanks for the input guys! Only bad thing I have heard was that on the t5s they used cheap glue to glue the surround to the cone and it separates, but thats not a big deal, can easily be fixed... My main concern now is port area and these enclosures being ok for the t5s....ive looked everywhere online but cant seem to find anything that gives me an answer as far as port area, all the calculators come up with crazy numbers....i got exact enclosure measurements now if they could help in someone helping mme find the port area? I would really appreciate it! Thanks! Enclosure (Outer dimensions, wood thickness included- 0.75" MDF) 20" deep 15" tall 40" wide Port dimensions (Dimensions PER port, total of 4 ports, 1 per sub, inside dimensions, wood thickness not included) - (SLOT PORTS) - 13.5" tall 2.5" wide 22" long
  5. That wasn't a helpful reply at all. Soundstream makes great subs. They make great everything... Second, the car looks kind of sick to me, i wouldn't feel like a dumbass in it. Third, there called vertical doors, or scissor doors. not lambo doors. Lamborghini didn't invent that look, at all. It was on an alfa romeo first. As for the Op, 2.25 cubes is actually closer to the recommended size for the t5, than it is for the Reference. They may sound slightly different, but i'd say it'll be better, as for loudness, if your giving them the same power, they'll probably be about the same. Thanks for the positive reply! As for the subs, I would be giving the t5s their rated power, maybe a bit more in a burp...since they are rated for more...the main thing im worried about is if the port area is ok from the RW enclosures.....the port is 16 3/4" long, 16" high, and 2" per sub.....if it would be better since soundstream recommends a 4" port for the t5s, I could take out the divider making the port a common port for 2 subs, making the port 4 3/4".....just some ideas i came up with, not sure what would be better.....i was wanting to go to the t5s if i could, if i could use the same enclosures, and them be a bit louder...
  6. Lambos pretty much I got paid to take them lol. I got 2 sets of lambo hinges, for doing come carbon fiber work for a guy and a air ride gauge that I wasnt going to use and had next to nothing into Forgot to add, I sold the second set for $175...so, thats how I pretty much got paid to take them
  7. Lambos pretty much I got paid to take them lol. I got 2 sets of lambo hinges, for doing come carbon fiber work for a guy and a air ride gauge that I wasnt going to use and had next to nothing into
  8. Ok, so, I had originally wanted to wall my cavi with 4 soundstream RW 12s, have the subs and enclosures, but decided now, I want to go up from the RWs to the T5s....my question is, is there really a big difference in them?as far as sound? louder? SQ? Also, my enclosures for my RWs are 2.25 cubic foot per sub, with a 2" slot port, per sub, tuned to 32HZ...would I need to build new enclosures for the t5s or will they be fine in the enclosures I have now for the RWs? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  9. Obviously going to need to lose the auto trans stuff from the PCM, wiring as far as sensors go from auto to 5 speed, pedal assembly, shifter, trans itself, flywheel, clutch, clutch master and slave cylinder if it is a hydraulic clutch system, if not then clutch cable, swap out gauges if you want...take the damn auto shifter out lol, basic stuff, as far as trans, not sure what trans you would need. My friend did one a long time ago. He sold the car now, but ill ask him when i see him next if he remembers what trans he had to use and all that good stuff and let you know.
  10. Test the lines, also make sure the pump valves are opening, if the valves arent opening, check your wiring
  11. As said above, air ride technologies is the way to go. Yes, they are more expensive than well....any other brand i have ever seen i think lol, but are well worth it. Air ride technologies is whats on my cav and I love it. I see alot of cavi guys going to easy street (air lift) and having to replace strut bags all the time, while i and other ART guys have never had a problem.
  12. The one I worked on, not sure on year, but i remember it was tight getting the thing out, other than that easy though, 2 bolts for the starter, then there were 2 braces going from the block to the inspection plate for the trans. that had to come off, but if you angle them just right you can unbolt them frmom the inspection plate, move them over, unbolt the inspection plate then slide the starter out..
  13. So, let me see if im right, shifts hard into reverse? Higher idle? Temp. raise? Does it shift hard into any other gear while your going down the road? Have a whine sound to it a bit? Ever die?
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