HotRodHam

ok but i also have a question about my amp/subs if i ahd 2 svc 2 ohm subs and i hooked them up to my jl amp which is stable to 2 ohms would it go down to 1 ohm? the channel goes ++-- on the amp and i cant bridge it

lol its my girlfriends cd player, its been through a car wreck and it heats my cds so much and it scratches them bad. i baught a brand new lil jon crunk rock cd and its already got more scrastches then one of my oldest cds

im in nebraska lol... and i was kinda short on cash... got some fines to pay and had to sell my alpine H/U to get the money :/ a cd player is next on my list though. then a box and another one of my audiobahn subs

so i have a dual cd player and it just all of a sudden stopped reading burnt discs, like i was cruising with a burnt cd and then all of a sudden it spits out the cd, i put it back in and it stays in, goes to track 1 but just sits there. anyone know wats wrong?

18" ^^

honestly this would take way longer then someone just telling him... but anyways doesnt he list everything he has in/on it on one of his vids?

ok so im going to be making a fiberglass box for a 18" fi bl its going to be 7cuft or around there. and im going to tune it to around 28-30 hz would i have to use aero ports? and if so how big would they have to be

this is prolly the most help ive gotten on this site in a while... i usually get the dicks who tell me to go somewhere else and ask "noob" question or go find out for urself kinda crap

ok and where do i ground the front battery too? the alt? or the engine chassis. or is that for the big 3 where i ground the - to the engine chassis big 3 alt pos to bat pos bat neg to chassis <-- bat beg to engine <-- the second battery bat pos to bat pos (from front to back) bat neg to bat neg (from front to back) amp bat pos to amp pos bat neg to amp neg you also want to ground the rear battery to the frame for the best results dont u mean alt neg to engine and bat neg to chassis?

i know i had to put fuses in im just to lazy to put it in the pic lol EDIT: those would have to be 300a fuses right?

ok and where do i ground the front battery too? the alt? or the engine chassis. or is that for the big 3 where i ground the - to the engine chassis

so is that right?

someone on this site said i cant use my walmart battery and a kinetik at the same time so i was just thinking putting a cheap battery under the hood of the same brand

OK so im buying a 18" Fi BL and a AQ 2200D. Will 1 run of 0g be good enough or do I need 2? The 0g will be going to my second battery in the trunk. and ill be running 0g from the battery to the amp. And I will be running the big 3 and ill have a Kinetik HC 600 under the hood in a custom mounting bracket and Kinetik HC1800 in the trunk.

and on the checkout thing for the fi it says flatwind. wats that. edit: and wats universal

when it says 2200 x 1 is that rms? or max Ole Lord. I smell major noob. No real respectful company rates at MAX. and? lol im learning as i go thank you very much haha i kinda figured it was rms but my mind told me to think it was max.

when it says 2200 x 1 is that rms? or max rms. ooooooooo nvm then that makes sence and saves me 390$

when it says 2200 x 1 is that rms? or max

Why the 1 ohm? idk y not? Your wiring options. Your voicecoil configuration is important for how you're going to wire the resistance. If you have one D1 voicecoil, you're either going to wire to .5 ohm or 2 ohms. Getting a D2 and wiring to 1 ohm might be better for you... D2 it is then

ok so ill get a 18" Fi BL fully loaded and 1 AQ 2200d amp for now. upgrade electrical while im at it. then buy another AQ 2200D once my electrical is better. 2 runs of 0g big 3 and a Kinetik 2400 in the trunk and a Kinetik 600 under the hood. u think thatll be good?

Why the 1 ohm? idk y not?

That's pretty harsh... Maybe just browse the build section, pick out some good subs (almost 80% will have a square on the site with their name on it) and flip a coin. In the end, its your build. This isn't a vs thread but it still can turn into a person who runs A and swears by A, someone who runs B and swears by B. Truth is, there are a lot of drivers that can perform what you need....preference being the biggest factor between a lot of systems. I'm pretty sure you will have good luck almost no what you get im just gonna get a fi and learn from personal experience if its good enough for me or not. if its not ill buy a diff sub and set the fi aside for another build or something

ok so i decided on the 18" fi BL 1ohm just cuz ive always wanted a fi sub haha. and it says 1000rms about how much max do you think they are. ide like to here from someone with personal experience with them. ill b getting it fully loaded with the 4" coils and prolly the SPL not the Daily. because someone said that getting SPL one really doesnt make a difference. if someone else has any input on the daily or spl please tell me it

i live in the shit hole of nowhere in nebraska u dont find systems better then 12" type rs around here.