dog24fret

Alrighty then they will not be used.Yea that's the one thing I liked was the lights and numbers moving.Lame reason lol.Thanks again guys.Oh all most forgot dose the big 3 upgrade have to be 1/0 or will 4 gauge work in the escort.Will be the first upgrade I've done so don't want to screw it up then have to fix it.

Ok did know they were supposed to smooth out the power ripples but not the rest so thank you.So that means in my wifes car that I'm finishing up don't hook up the cap.I will be doing the big three upgrade on it this weekend.On that subject so I don't wast post space will 4gauge work in her car 99 Ford Escort.Really not enough room for 1/0 wire.The cap in my van should come out cause the van has a near constant 14 volt output 99Ford E-150 conversion van.Thanks guys for clearing it up.

I read in a post from someone about using caps.He was told not to use them because they were bad for the electrical systems.I was taught to always use one and did not know they could be harmful.I could not find anymore info in here about that.So if someone would kindly do so please explain this to me.

Thanks everyone.Been watching Steve's door builds on utube and member builds and wow is all that can be said.Don't know where to put my pics at members build or here.When I need help with the glassing start new topic in general or elsewhere.Still new to all of the posting.

Ok thanks everyone I will try to get pics up soon.As far as the local shop I was told buy books,which already did,or go to school like they did.Or pay 350 for them to do it which don't let me learn diddly or give me the pleasure of saying I did that.

Ok how do I put up the pics.The one thing I need to know the right way to do is the rear deck.I am going to fiberglass the deck an put 5.25 speakers back there.Can I just resin the factory deck then use glass cloth to get the desired look.

I am in mist of a small build(compaired to some in here) in my wifes car.This is my first solo build and was wanting to show it.So I can get feed back and learn from the better builders than me.I am unable to find the rules on this topic.Any help would be great.

Cool never thought of closed cell would be a real difference.I actually am using fatmat with closed cell foam under the vinyl for the trunk.The way it is done is fatmat,trunk carpet,with .5 inch mdf wraped in heavy dense foam then foam backed vinyl.So use foam on the doors (closed cell)on top of fatmat.I will be building a box to fit in the trunk going to try fiberglass.The wife just bought the box cause she wanted to help with the install she did 90 percent of it by herself pretty cool.She can do tune ups plugs oil tires and cook a mean steak.lol Sould I post pics of the build or am I to new still reading the rules.

No there is no upgrades planned for the future.She just want to have a quieter ride.Unless the wife is unhappy then I'll be unhappy lol.Now for this setup and the goal will it take all of what I got or tone down abit.As it is apparent this is the first time ever doing this honestly.The subs will be sealed and 1 to 1.25cu ft do i need anything else for the trunk.The subs are in a prefab box with very little rattle.I would like to think everyone for the help.

Thanks I'm not off in left field then.Got 170sq ft of fat mat,1gal of sprayable deadner and 6 cans of foam. The set up in my wifes car is 6.5 Planet Audio comps. 5.25 PA in rear deck. 2 JBL 10" subs. Soundstorm 4 ch eva at 60 rms. Soundstorm 2 ch at 250 rms haven't checked actual output on amps yet.Will be doing big 3 upgrade also. I hope that is what you were asking.All of this is a hony to do list while she is on vacation in Alaska.

I was wondering the best way to sound deadin the outer skin of car doors.The car is a 99 Ford Escort.I will be deading the whole car.So I was wondering if this is good or bad.Will use expandable foam in the pillars of the doors and roof.Fatmat on the inner door frames and sound deading spray on the outer door skin then fatmat on the floor,trunk,roof of the rest of the car.Then undercoat the car as well.If this is to much tell me or any opinions of better ways to do this is will be very helpfull thanks.

Thank you.Still getting use to the posting stuff.

Thanks guys for answering this for me.I just never been around any in real world use.Just in shops so do they last just as long as round.Is there any corner stress to worry about.

I was wondering if anyone would tell me if their is a advantage to square compared to round.Are any of the square subs worth messing with.

It may be a "oh brother" for you but to me it is use it or lose it.Not every one is on top of the game.lol

Hey thanks for all the info.Dose this show clipping or just the voltage.Hey is this the way they set up the systems mow.Instead of turn up the head unit to distortion.Then back off until single is clean then move onto the rest of the crossovers and amps etc,trying to keep it short.Truthfully the last real system compared to the SMD site.Was in a 89 Honda Civic 6 Rockford Fosgate power siries 12".With Kicker ND22 componet set.Made it to 148 in outlaw comp but just never broke 155.lol Now I got to learn all over again

Thank you for that info.I have not done that myself.Although I have had it done by others who were more knowledgeable than me.Don't always take much,lol.The last time I had that done was at the shop I was working at in 93.Goodlord that was a long time ago things have changed alittle since then.If you don't mind how do you do this correctly.Can it be done without bench equipment.I am about to change my current system.

I know I will catch alot of flack for this.I am unfamiliar with the term clamped amp.I don't always remember the terms on the stuff I do so I am not sure if I have done this or not.So try and not give me to hard of a time,even though I am probably asking for it.lol Thanks for any help