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Chamois

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Posts posted by Chamois

  1. Im trying to do this box design by myself, and trying to tune it correctly but for some reason the Tuning Calculator is telling me i only need 2" of port length for 35hz

    Well i figured since you guys are experts at this, that i should make sure its correct before i go cutting up my MDF :P

    So here are my box's Outer Demensions

    Height: 18"

    Width: 36"

    Depth: 22"

    Box Volume: 6.75 Cubic Feet

    Here is a sketchup i made:

    DualSDC2515PortedBox.jpg

    I really need help figuring out the center port tuning .. Please

  2. Basically i wanna buy some new subs, and I want help deciding ..

    I was considering

    1 15" AQ HDC3

    2 15" AQ SDC2.5

    Possibly 4 12" Kicker Comps (2010 version)

    Basically I have $300 Dollars to spend, and im gonna be running 1200 watts ..

    I wanna get the most bump for my money ..

    I really like the idea of 4 Kicker Comps, but i think that my amp is a little to much power, even for 4 of them :P

    Do you guys have any other suggestions?

  3. Wow you guys really responded fast ..

    Yeah i did run them down the same side as my power wire ..

    So its just feedback from the power wire you think?

    Im really hoping this is the issue, cuz ill just re-run the RCA's down the other side of the car ::D:

    And the Sub, like the rubber surround that attaches to the basket, it came loose and i can feel air leaking between Basket and the Rubber

  4. So i have a Soundstream PCX1000D and a 15" Type R and I have a problem with each of them ..

    The PCX1000D seems to have something wrong with it ..

    When i turn on my radio, i get a loud humming noise, or wind noise .. It sounds like wind blowing or something similar even if im not playing music and my volume is off .. It goes away after a few minutes, but it still is obnoxious .. Oh and it makes this noise even if the engine is off, just to let you know ..

    What can this be? Should i send it back, i just got it a week ago ..

  5. yeah i get u well this is the cheapest one i could find with keyless entry http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12045_Omega+Freedom+150.html

    Thanks for the link, The reviews say its a great product, i wonder if its worth a try?

    Take it to a pro. Alot of times you're going to run into locking problems with older vehicles. In that car specifically it's a positive trigger for lock and unlock, Meaning it's probably heavy current and you will need to convert polarity as well as use a good fused source wire as supply for the relays.

    The most true tested connections for any alarm/keyless entry/remote start is always soldering when tapping your wires. If you aren't able to do perfect soldered joints each and every time.

    But my car is extremely old :lol:

    Last weekend I went to a local car audio/electronics shop, and they said that older cars are typically easier to install security on because they don't require extra parts, is this true?

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