DynamikT
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Posts posted by DynamikT
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Sure ill try to make a video later today. I have a setting on my HU that says Sub W? Is that the Sub Level? Because with the settings I currently have I never really hear clipping just loud punching bass. But im going to back off on Bass boost and the Bass level on the headunit. I think my HU RCA is a 4V. How would it not be safe if im only pushing 140-170 watts on each speaker when the RMS for each one is 200-250watts?
it is safe just make sure you set your head unit settings to the correct settings, Sub W should be on max, bass should be on 0 or lowest depending on how loud you want it as others have said here, btw how are those jl's are they any good because i find the price unbelievably cheap.
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Mind posting a video of your subs playing once your all setup? Only one person has a vid on youtube thanks.
Also keep bass on 0 all the time. If you have sub level control on the head unit put it on max if you bass isnt to your liking, that shouldn't clip at all.
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as u dont have a 1ohm sub or power hungry one ...its better to go with a 2ch AB class amp as u will get more "clean" power (into 4 or 2 ohms) for the price as u would with a D-class monoblock
and that a good deal on the GZ amp ...
Okay so if i were to get that amp i would just wire one coil to each channel?
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r u from UK...and btw that amp is POS
get somethin like this GZ amp
Thats a pretty good deal on that amp actually but its a 2 channel making it not as efficient as a monoblock?
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what amp? and it will sure run @2ohm ...like any other AB class amp (gets a bit warmer)
Even if not stated in the manual would it handle 2 ohm load mono? Its not a major brand, here is a link to it, http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-juice-ja490_p-23379.htm
Edit, i dont mind if the amp gets warmer as i dont turn my music up loud for any more than 20 mins
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what amp ....that "150Wrms" will just tickle the sub
at bridged it can only give a 4 ohm load
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Hi how should i wire my dc level 2 to my 2 channel amp? The sub is dual 4 ohm. My amp gives out 50 rms at two channels at 4 ohm, but bridged it gives out 150 rms. How should i wire the sub to the amp?
Thank you.
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Okay i know im throwing all sorts of questions out there, and annoying you guys, but right now the Pioneers are my choice ..
Also what about RE Audio SRX12? Those are just out of my Budget, and those are 300rms ..
Are those gonna have more excursion and get louder than the pioneers?
Im willing to spend the extra couple bucks if its worth it lol
Ill change my budget a bit lol
Im more familiar with the older SR series which apparently sound better than the new SRX series, if you can afford them then go for it but i've heard many times that they can handle more than their RMS ratings as long as you know what your doing, either way they are both good subs. If you are really on a budget then go for the pioneers
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I would reccomend the pioneer's as HT said, they have a lot more excursion than the CVR's.
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Personally i would get a level 4 xl.
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Bargain, go for it.
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Im not too keen on kicker subs but please do tell us how good they sound once you've wired it all up.
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depends on the deal, unless your getting each sub for about $25 a piece i'd say save your money and get somethin better.
Well the funny thing is if i were to buy it, it would work out at around $150.
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Just found out that Fi X range subs prices are going to increase from 120 pounds as they were planned to be once they get in to the UK. And to make it worse they are the only dealer in the UK. FUCK THAT.
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What tabs? I dont see no tabs. Are they on the other side? Most likely that old amp does not have a built in crossover, you'll have to buy a separate one.
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well look at it this way, theres a reason they went out of business. i remember some scam they were doing with their motors, covering it in that mesh wire thing. some guy snipped it off and revealed that the motor was WAY fuckin smaller than the wire mesh made it look.
Well thats put me off completely. Previously the only thing which was putting me off was its childish design with the flames and all, its just the 800 rms which caught me. Thanks.
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90% install. They aren't actually too bad, but you might as well just get something better for the money.
Im assuming you mean a better brand?
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You serious? Its rated at 800 rms, saw some 12's on youtube and they looked alright, anyway its just a video. Have you heard any audiobahns before?
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Hi i can get a Audiobahn AW1500V 15" 1600 Watts Subwoofer for a real good price. Would anyone reccomend audiobahn to me as i have not heard them before. It will be going in an 15" ported box. Thank you.
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i had a SR15 ina 3.5cubes @38Hz on like 500W @4ohm and it was pretty good
Recognised the dub step sound straight away lol, thanks for the post and was that 500 rms you meant or 500 max? And is it an l ported box?
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Because the 8's would be tuned considerably lower, I would run the 15" in the prefab. It will get you higher #'s if you play a somewhat high frequency.
What i would like to know is if i play a test tone at 28 - 35 hz, which would most likely get louder without distorting or bottoming out?
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I would only be using one 15" in the pre-fab box with a round port. The T-line is tuned to 30hz.
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I was wondering which would be louder in terms of dB, im not worried too much about the sound quality. The t-line box would be a well made one, however where im from its not easy to get t-line boxes for 15" or any other sizes so, if you can help me with this, thanks. The pre-fab 15" box i have is an ordinary ported box with the slant back style.
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No I don't!! now i need $3 because come to find out they charge a $3 activation fee when you buy the prepaid gift card at kroger so instead of me getting $50 i got $47 which was unexpected!! if you can send that money i'll ship you a roll of peel and seal.
Unfortunately ive had the bad experiences with them also...
Dam pre-paid companies.
Do you even need one?
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Posted · Edited by DynamikT
Steve Meade uses a bass knob so if you have a powerful system it is necessary..When you need to make instant changes.