arcwcb

I had my XL rip the surround right by the cone (after only a month of having it). Had DC recone it and they said that it was my fault because it "unloaded" from being played at a high volume with my windows down (pretty much an exact quote from the tech). They said my coil was torn up pretty good too, but I figure that's from having a surround rip and it playing pretty loud for a good 2-3 minutes until I could pull out of traffic to see what was up. It was bound to start banging a coil when the surround crapped out. And I only had my T1500-1bd on it. Box was 1.15 cubes at 33 Hz, playing rock when the surround died. They fixed it for free but said that it was my fault and that they wouldn't fix it again, so I'm thinking I'm gonna have to start taking it easy on the XL's (they sound so good on daily music) and swap them out for my AQ HDC3 10's for when I hit up a comp, I don't wanna have to start paying for recones from a surround that rips and tears up the coil lol.

Yeah, I'm doing the fiberglass on mine now just because I'm about to graduate college and I'm picking up a second vehicle. The big thing for my mids and highs upgrade was that from looking in the window, except for the screen in the dash and nitrous controls in the center console, it had to look stock or at least really close, I didn't want to advertise that somebody should steal my stuff. So it's definitely not some SQ machine that's perfect, but it's a solid upgrade from the stock stereo (which will make you CRY... when you pull the stock stuff out and see how much the Shaker 500 cost as an option). But if you can do a little fiberglass work (it's not terrible, I'm pretty new to it too lol) you can make the car sound awesome!

I've got RF T-series 6x8's in doors and rear deck, all powered off of an RF T400-4 and then RF P1 8's in the factory woofer locations in the doors (mine originally had the shaker 500) and T-series 6.5" components in the kicks, those powered off of a T400-2. Looking to do a little more work and add some more speakers up front (fiberglass the doors, rear deck, etc.), but it sounds damn good (and loud) right now.

Yeah, I had a 3 cu ft box for two 10" T1's, rear firing, then did a 2.3 cu ft box forward firing, but I got tired of the T1's, so I'm rounding up equipment now to run my two 10" XL's forward firing and then just use expanding foam to seal it off. And you aren't kidding about the trunk being tiny lol, not to mention the floor makes it even harder to do. I SHOULD be getting ready to have build pics going up sometime around mid to late November though, assuming everything comes in on time and my buddies are ready to help me get everything in and wired up lol.

Hey man, just saw your sig, good choice on subs and car I'm gonna be running my two 10" XLs in my 06 GT off of two RF T1500-1bd's, I bet yours will slam off of that 3500.D

Lol, yeah, that's what happens when you have 0 testing time and only 10 minutes between getting a quick temp box back in and burping.

Argent Audio is doing a new box for me for 2 10" XLs and I'm sealing if off from the trunk with a ton of expanding foam, along with another battery in the spare tire well, Mechman 270 amp alt, and another T1500-1bd. SHOULD do a little better than last time lol one 10" sub just wasn't cutting it lol

What is the difference between a tline and a regular ported enclosure?

Just like the title says, I'm looking for a T1500-1bd (not CP) amp in perfect working condition and good cosmetic condition. PM me if you have one, I have Paypal. Thanks guys!

Yeah, I'm definitely open to meeting you halfway, but I honestly don't see how to get it to fit in the car, the opening into the cab is smaller than the rest of the trunk and my trunk opening is really narrow, I have no idea how I could ever get a pre-done box into the car...

I live in Rolla, MO during school, when schools out I live at home in Butler, MO

I've seen what some of the people on this forum have built, I have NO DOUBT it would be awesome, it's just I have no idea how to get all the dimensions you'd need to seal it off from the trunk, all the angles of the trunk floor, and all the curves of the sides, and you still be able to build it that I can just slide it in without completely disassembling it...

2006 Mustang GT, the trunk has a million curves and the floor slopes down, it would be a nightmare to try to do it without physically being able to measure and build it in the car, or at least to just have it there to look at. Plus I want it sealed off from the trunk as best it can.

It has to be built IN the vehicle to get the most out of the space I have available... Otherwise I'd gladly hit you up on that.

I haven't received my final quote from them, but I'm SURE it's more than I wanna spend The box I had for my two T1 10s in this car was 4 or 500, I can't remember. I'd like to get hooked up with somebody that won't rip me off, but they assume I'm just some kid that got some legit stuff and I don't know what I'm doing because I'm not building my own box so they take forever to build a box and then try to feed me some bull that I know isn't true... Sorry, venting from the last experience at a shop, they quoted me 600 and tried charging me 1300... I have yet to have a good experience with ANY shop I've been to, but I don't really have a choice...

Yeah, I'm in college, I have NO tools or space to do this myself, but I want it up and running by next summer so I can compete. Sucks, cuz I know if you want something done right to do it yourself, but I can't right now, so this will have to work. But since nobody in my area deals in DC stuff, i wanted to make sure I showed up giving them the specs to use lol.

I told the shop that I'm looking at having do this that I want as much port area as they can possibly do. And since I'm really wanting this system to get LOW, I wasn't planning on going ANY higher than 34 Hz.

Yeah, 1 cu ft would be nice and save me space, but if Rusty and thorshammer recommend 1.15 cu ft each since they're only getting 1500 watts, then that's what I'll do lol. Besides, if I upgrade to 5kw in a couple years, I might just yank the rear seat and do a couple 15s at that point rather than messing with keeping it in the trunk.

Damn...

I'm from Missouri, I live close to KC and go to school closer to STL, so pretty much anywhere in MO or eastern KS I would make the drive if they are good.

Well, I'm only gonna be giving them 3kw for now, but probably the summer after, I'm hoping to pick up two RF T2500-1bds, so 5kw for the two of them. But that will be another year or two. So 0.8 cu ft per woofer will still get loud and have real nice lows? I knew I wanted DC since they save space for not needing huge enclosures, but DAMN, that's tiny lol. But from what I've seen of your car, it works, so I won't argue. So for 3000 watts RMS, should I do the 1.15, 0.8, or the suggested on the website of 1 (all of these per woofer of course lol)?

First post on SMD, so here goes I have a single 10" XL now, will soon be ordering another, and I have two RF T1500-1bds to power them. I'm looking for an enclosure that will get LOW and LOUD, it will be in a 2006 Mustang GT and will be sealed off from the trunk, forward firing (subs would contact nitrous bottles if they rear fired). I want the box to be professionally built (I don't have the tools to do it right) but I'm from the midwest and there are NO shops around me that deal with DC stuff, so I'm scared they will just throw a box together and hope it works for my XLs. I'm looking to compete pretty regularly in Midwest SPL next summer, so I want to put up respectable numbers on the TL while still being able to get really low and really musical at car shows and demos. What size enclosure/tuning do you recommend for a noob to competing like me that wants a pretty mean ground pounder for shows and music? Thanks for the help guys