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Posts posted by BozzMazzi
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Anyone ever put a XL in a 4th order? I put (1) XL 15" cause I wanted to hit some of those low lows. Mainly because I like to listen to DECAF mixes. This box is killing my hatch, I had to remove my back glass wiper arm, because it murdered the gasket. It got to the point that you couldn't hear the music cleanly due to the rattling. After removing the wiper arm and the motor, clean music lasted for about 3 weeks. Then the rear lift gate flexed so much that it broke the center support, part of its structural support. It broke it in half which was about 3 inch's wide. XL is mean I can't wait for two.
Man that looks like it'll do some damage...
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Nice box design.
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What happen to the rest of the pix?
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I have two D1400's that will be here tomorrow woo hoo, anyone ever seen two batts under the hood in a Xterra...stay tuned and I will have some pics up tomorrow!
I'm posted... Just got a '11 Xterra S and can't find many bass heads who have any.
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Did business and now going pre-med.
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May God be with him and his family.
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I'd make sure and secure the jewels with one hand or something and use the other hand/arm to keep the banchee at bay until she calms down or see's something shiny...
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What"s the new price? PM me if you still have it.
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5 batteries in series? hmmm.... i think not.
bus bars are mostly a look thing.
copper is way more conductive than aluminum.
I might have meant to say parallel ( but they are positive to positive, negative to negative) I always get those confused...
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Just depends on what set up your running really
A lot of them are just for show but once you get into big power the physics of it comes into play.
Like through copper wire, running a lot of power will make it get hot, heat is something you dont want as it means wasted power, busbars are really good ways of dissipating heat and getting real efficient transfer of power,
basically if you use a busbar, your never gonna have to upgrade as its the best way of linking batteries.
Plus it makes it look real good with out all the wires
Oh btw if you do decide to go for busbars I would go for aluminium
Its only slightly less conductive than copper and for the money difference between them its worth going with alu, coppers real expensive these days plus you can polish aluminium up to near chrome like mirror copper tends to tarnish and go off colour as time passes.
I would like to not have to upgrade after this as I want to be done with my electrical once I get my Singer alt (350a and my current DC 270xp) 3 runs of 0awg per +/- . I am apprehensive about the heat that may be produced but I do not think that I will be near the power load that would cause a great deal of heat... or so I hope.
I like the look of the aluminum more and the price variance is just
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Looks alone is good enough to me. I got 1/4" copper bar, bronze hardware( nuts, washers, and bolts) in 50 piece packs from McMaster-Carr's website. All for 45$.
Cleaned up the wiring, copper looks sexy, and not to mention the copper is a great conductor.
Well worth it to me.
Thanks for the site info. I was thinking about the look factor and that is a very strong draw... I know copper is more conductive to aluminum (second to silver) but i'm not a huge fan of that color, do you think that there would be much of a difference if I went with aluminum opposed to the copper?
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Hey all...
I was trying to find some info regarding battery bus bar's (aluminum &/or copper) on the site but was not able to (a link would help if any one knows of one) so I figured that I would just ask.
I have 5 batteries (Kinetik HC 2400's) that are currently in series with 0awg wire but I see some people use these copper or aluminum bus bars to get more consistent charges/discharges but I am curious if this method is really worth the extra time, effort and money?
I would appreciate any info to help me decide or any other suggestions that might be better than the daisy chain of wire.
Thanks in advance...
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Wouldn't the biggest problem/concern be that a cold car will be more susceptible to having something break from the abuse that some systems can place? I'm normally more affraid that my 18"s will break something in the truck (in cold) then the subs having an issue.
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More like he "knocked out" a bunch of cars... What a douch bag
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Glad your doin ok bro, better the car get wrecked then your self or a family member.
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with a motor that looks like that i would recommend inverting them if possible. 2 reasons, save a shit ton of air space, and it looks cool as hell
With them inverted it almost looks like the box grew legs and wants to run away.
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Would there be any sound benifit for inverting the subs?
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Nope Not happening... Dont have enough posts
This topic would have been fine had the OP not mentioned trading in the topic. WTB topics w/o 150 posts arent a problem, but once you make it a WTB and offer a trade in it with only 22 posts, there is a problem.
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I use Unique audio and security in Lindenhurst. Been going there for years and they've done right by me. Ask for Sean he's the owner.
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wait wha happened to the qs?
I called back and canceled my order as when I placed it they were not able to confirm that they would be able to "load" the subs the way I was asking. Worked out great cuz they wouldn't have been able to load the Q in that fashion and were recomending the BL.
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Damn, you must have a Sundown dealer near you ?!!!
Nice choice on woofers.:good:
Could have looked into the SSA line (2010 Icon or Xcons).
Waiting for some pics, now ! please!!!!
I wish that there was a Sundown dealer near by but I lucked out... Had a friend that was getting out of the audio realm and heading in to racing, the system was in his truck for less than a week and played a TOTAL of 1 hour... and the price was just insane.
Finding myself on You Tube
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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I like those rear door pods... look nice and clean.